Crank gurdle for 4age

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Postby Flannelman » Thu Nov 01, 2012 8:28 pm

Im sure its cut, not rolled for a standard bolt

Yes, rolled threads are stronger than cut ones.
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Postby Flannelman » Fri Nov 23, 2012 10:55 pm

Ha! Found the above is wrong, bolt threads are rolled not cut!

Anyway, slight design change. The stud idea is not needed. A longer bolt will do the job as long its the same or greater tensile strengh as a stock bolt. The hunt is now on for a M10x1.25 by 90mm long. The price of destuctive testing of a stock bolt was $250. SO not going to happen. However, by reasonable deduction, using the stock toyota bolts torque setting of 60NM I just have to find the similar torque setting to replace them. Ruled out is grade 8.8 as there torque setting is 46NM. I will have to check again on what a grade 10.8 and grade 12.9 are to deside what one Im using. Cost for a set of 10 is around the $50 mark so price wise things are promising.
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Postby atmosports » Sat Nov 24, 2012 8:35 am

I found a long time ago, that Japanese earth moving equipment is usually a good source for long metric fine & extra fine bolts could be worth a look if you get stuck for bolts. Else just go through the ARP catalogue again & find something that'll work.
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Postby nzae86 » Wed Nov 28, 2012 6:37 pm

Flannelman wrote:Major stall on this, just got off the phone to ARP. Im looking at close to $8-900US just for a single set of 10 studs made to lenght or $20-30US per stud on a run of hundred. This is only on the chance that some blanks can be found at the right lenght to save cost. This also doent include the nuts and washers!

So a quick tally up sees that for a run of 100, each set will cost on worst case of $40US each stud and 2 nuts and 2 washers. Add roughly 20% for US to NZ so thats $48... Times 10 = $480... Plus GST of 15%... gets a total of $552 each set. 10 sets to make 100 is $5520.
Thats not including postage or import duty...

Ouch, I hear my wallet crying from the car outside. Or is it me?


If you are planning on pulling 10000rpm plus then these bolts are going to be the least of your costs . You will need to get used to putting your hand in your pocket on a regular basis !
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Re: Crank gurdle for 4age

Postby Allister S » Fri Nov 30, 2012 12:59 pm

Flannelman wrote: On the 20V models there is a cast alloy support going from the base of the block to the gearbox. There is no room for the crank gurdle and this support.
?


Bit off topic but anyone got any pics of this extra support?

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Postby Flannelman » Fri Dec 21, 2012 6:34 pm

Image
Gearbox support in place on block

Image
Gearbox support on its own

Sorry its taken some time to get these up.
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Postby allencr » Sun Dec 23, 2012 9:24 am

I've been looking for this alternative to your gurdle since you first posted & know that I've completely wasted my time.
Thank you oldeskewltoy!

Image[/i]
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Postby Flannelman » Thu Dec 27, 2012 10:20 am

Ive seen and read that forum too. His intentions are to CNC machine the block sides so the steel cap sits flush with the sump face. Very expensive yet will still work.

As with the concept, more details begin to emerge like a standard sump will have to be modified. The same goes for the windage tray. The result is a kit that is no longer a bolt in affair unless I do the work which means if I was to sell these as a kit the price would rise.

Time for a Poll!
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Postby Flannelman » Thu Dec 27, 2012 10:49 am

Poll found here

viewtopic.php?t=89697
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Postby Mr Revhead » Thu Dec 27, 2012 11:57 am

Would you not be looking at dry sump for those revs?
Also fwd and rwd sump etc will be different
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Postby Bazda » Fri Dec 28, 2012 9:05 pm

I managed to find ARP studs that are a direct fit and are 12mm taller than the 4age ones. Off the shelf so was pretty cheap!

Planning on making up my own girdle system which would be CNC cut.
Not water jet as the material they use isnt a very high grade.

Would def be well under $1k for sure.
And you would still use the same windage tray and sump without any mods to it.
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