Nylon rope trick gone wrong

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Postby Dell'Orto » Tue Jan 08, 2013 2:18 pm

BZG|Bling wrote:
Mr Revhead wrote::o I needs me one of those!

Yeah that looks handy as, might have to make one!


They're good for a while, but they break the pins all the time
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Postby RS13 » Tue Jan 08, 2013 2:44 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:
BZG|Bling wrote:
Mr Revhead wrote::o I needs me one of those!

Yeah that looks handy as, might have to make one!


They're good for a while, but they break the pins all the time


What are the pins made of?
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Postby Bling » Tue Jan 08, 2013 3:33 pm

M10 bolt should do the trick I was thinking. Would you go larger?
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Postby Dell'Orto » Tue Jan 08, 2013 4:15 pm

RS13 wrote:
Dell'Orto wrote:
BZG|Bling wrote:
Mr Revhead wrote::o I needs me one of those!

Yeah that looks handy as, might have to make one!


They're good for a while, but they break the pins all the time


What are the pins made of?


Other than metal, I have no idea :lol: But I know the NZ stockist of that type of impact bar stopped bringing them in due to them breaking all the time
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
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Postby RS13 » Tue Jan 08, 2013 4:42 pm

Hmm, I was thinking more like a 1/2" high-shear bolt, you'd want it to be fairly heavy. Lots of options for those in the aero industry.
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Postby solitaire » Tue Jan 08, 2013 5:02 pm

Well, in other news, i think it's poked.

Started her up and purred quite happily but something seemed a bit off with the drive belt, cant explain it but it didnt seem right, almost a subtle shimmy or something.

So i let it warm up to full temp, all the fluids bled etc. no leaks or anything, idled quite happily.

BUT, when i revved it up to about 4 grand there was a small vibration through the steering wheel, almost like that vibration you get if your front wheels are out of balance at 100kmh (although nowhere near as bad, the sort of vibration that only bugs car enthusiasts, my wife wouldnt even notice it)

So... I think i bent something, could be the harmonic balancer but i cant beleive it just wore out spontaneously while it was off the car.

It COULD be just me looking for problems and noticing issues that were there before - thinking about driving it for a while and seeing if it translates to any feal world issues - end of the day if i bent something im not fixing it myself (have learned my lesson!) and its more than the car is worth to pay someone to sort it.

Advice? Sell/drive and see if it craps out/part out

I've become fairly successfull in my life and career by making Some pretty huge mistakes and learning from them, so im looking to learn from this and move onto the next major $&#$% :lol:
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Postby Dell'Orto » Tue Jan 08, 2013 5:21 pm

Did you tighten the crank pulley up to the correct torque afterwards? I would say about 35ft of rope would be about right :lol:
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
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Postby solitaire » Tue Jan 08, 2013 5:25 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:Did you tighten the crank pulley up to the correct torque afterwards? I would say about 35ft of rope would be about right :lol:

:lol:

I needed a good laugh!

I've done it up with a rattle gun but its not 188ft pounds or whatever it is supposed to be... could buy the tool to hold the crank still and do it if you think its worth a shot
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Postby Dell'Orto » Tue Jan 08, 2013 5:29 pm

Depending on the type of gun you used, it may not be done up tight enough. Worth checking at least, I doubt anything you would have done internally would cause a vibration at those kind of revs
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
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Postby solitaire » Tue Jan 08, 2013 5:30 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:Depending on the type of gun you used, it may not be done up tight enough. Worth checking at least, I doubt anything you would have done internally would cause a vibration at those kind of revs

its a supercheap rattlegun attached to a cheap compressor... will do that as the next course of action, cheers mate
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Postby Dell'Orto » Tue Jan 08, 2013 5:33 pm

Ah well there you go...a lot of those cheap guns are only rated at 200ft/lbs max, and thats with decent air.
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
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Postby solitaire » Tue Jan 08, 2013 5:42 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:Ah well there you go...a lot of those cheap guns are only rated at 200ft/lbs max, and thats with decent air.
I've remembered something else, before i resorted to the rope trick i had a old drive belt wrapped around the pulley to hold it still... wonder if i may have rooted the rubber in the balancer pulley
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Postby Dell'Orto » Tue Jan 08, 2013 5:43 pm

Only one way to find out ;)
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
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Postby solitaire » Tue Jan 08, 2013 5:51 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:Only one way to find out ;)
yeah, you've given me some good ideas/plans of action... cheers mate.

sounds stupid i know but this stuff seems obvious once you say it but it doesn't occur to me - i think i need to stick to driving rather than fixing.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Tue Jan 08, 2013 6:39 pm

Gotta learn somehow!

Definitly check its tight. Can you feel the vibrations on the car itself? As in if you lean on the gaurd? Or is it only through the wheel?
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Postby solitaire » Wed Jan 09, 2013 11:03 am

Mr Revhead wrote:Gotta learn somehow!

Definitly check its tight. Can you feel the vibrations on the car itself? As in if you lean on the gaurd? Or is it only through the wheel?
checked that last night, can definitely feel it on the guard. Im quietly hopefull i just need to tighten it to the right torque - glad i didnt decide to test drive it,

Other than that no other issues
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Postby sergei » Wed Jan 09, 2013 11:25 am

I wander if you can buy SST for this?
I usually use cranking method, but if the engine is out then I lock the flywheel with a made up tool that meshes with starter ring.
It is simply cheaper to replace the flywheel than a conrod ;).
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Postby Bling » Wed Jan 09, 2013 11:28 am

solitaire wrote:sounds stupid i know but this stuff seems obvious once you say it but it doesn't occur to me - i think i need to stick to driving rather than fixing.


I've yet to meet someone that was born with such knowledge. I often learn by breaking things. The key is to only break it once. I didn't know you had to loosen the tensioner pulleys on the likes of AC / PS belts. Ask mechanic when I grabbed wheel bearing. Him: "so you've loosen off the pulley nut?" me: "you have to do that? fuuuuck". He just laughed. That's just how things roll though. Next time i'll have it done in half an hour and not two hours.
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Postby solitaire » Fri Jan 11, 2013 2:42 pm

Could I get your opinion here please chaps: http://forums.toyspeed.org.nz/viewtopic.php?p=919732#919732
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Postby phoenix » Fri Jan 11, 2013 3:01 pm

Can you describe the shimmy/vibration in greater detail? If you hold the revs steady at say 2,000 rpm is it constant?
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