Front brakes won't bleed

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Front brakes won't bleed

Postby Dell'Orto » Sun Feb 03, 2013 6:26 pm

So finally got around to bleeding up my brakes today. Rears came up mint, but when I started on the fronts, they just don't want to play ball!
With a mityvac, I can pull fluid through to the caliper, but the pedal will not move any fluid at all. I didn't bench bleed the master cylinder when I rebuilt it, but I did disconnect the front pipe from the m/c and pulled fluid through with the vacuum bleeder.
Oddly, the pedal will go to the floor with either rear bleed nipple open, but as soon as they're closed the pedal goes hard again. Even with the front brake pipe undone from the m/c the pedal stays rock hard. Help?!?
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Postby sergei » Sun Feb 03, 2013 7:21 pm

Have you installed the correct seals and right way?
What about lines, are you sure rear goes to rear vice-versa?

Front should be first circuit and rear should be second on RWD vehicle (although I am not 100% sure if it same for AE86)...
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Postby Dell'Orto » Sun Feb 03, 2013 7:38 pm

Yep followed the manual to a T. Yes the front line is fed by the line off the front of the m/c, and the rear from the second line closer to the reservoir. It actually says F and R on the m/c so I can't $&#$% it up :lol:
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Postby Stott69 » Sun Feb 03, 2013 7:43 pm

Id try removing the lines from the caliper and eliminate weather theres crap in the lines
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Postby fangsport » Sun Feb 03, 2013 7:50 pm

is the forward piston assembly been reinstalled the correct way? dosn't affect the seal orientation, but does affect port alignment on some M/C's
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Postby Adoom » Sun Feb 03, 2013 7:56 pm

Stott69 wrote:Id try removing the lines from the caliper and eliminate weather theres crap in the lines

This, or try remove the line from the master cylinder to the front brakes, does it pump fluid out of the master cylinder? Then work your way towards the callipers till you find the failure.
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Re: Front brakes won't bleed

Postby Dell'Orto » Sun Feb 03, 2013 7:57 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:. Even with the front brake pipe undone from the m/c the pedal stays rock hard.
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
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2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

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Postby Dell'Orto » Sun Feb 03, 2013 7:58 pm

fangsport wrote:is the forward piston assembly been reinstalled the correct way? dosn't affect the seal orientation, but does affect port alignment on some M/C's


I'm fairly certain it was - I had 3 others to pull apart to compare...I may have to strip it down and recheck though.
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Postby fangsport » Sun Feb 03, 2013 8:06 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:
fangsport wrote:is the forward piston assembly been reinstalled the correct way? dosn't affect the seal orientation, but does affect port alignment on some M/C's


I'm fairly certain it was - I had 3 others to pull apart to compare...I may have to strip it down and recheck though.


done it on a mate's stockcar.......... not they need brakes with a bumper like that !!
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Postby matt dunn » Sun Feb 03, 2013 9:10 pm

can you swap the two outlets on the master cylinder to try,
probably wont solve the problem but will tell you if it is the MC or not,
as it should bleed the front and not the back then.
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Postby Crucible » Sun Feb 03, 2013 9:35 pm

Edit..

I just re read your post.

Do you have flow from both ports with pipes disconnected?
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Postby Grrrrrrr! » Sun Feb 03, 2013 11:27 pm

Did you put the little bolt on the side of the master cylinder that holds the front piston in before the front piston was far enough forward? try taking it out then pushing the pedal in a bit, then tightening it up.

When you bleed the rear circuit does the pedal go all the way to the floor or stop after not much travel?
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Postby Quint » Mon Feb 04, 2013 8:40 am

sergei wrote:Have you installed the correct seals and right way?

This.
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Postby allencr » Mon Feb 04, 2013 2:04 pm

MC is F'd up, assembled wrong.
Pedal wouldn't go the the floor if that little piston stop bolt was in the wrong position, so you've got a seal or piston in backwards, or if new pistons came in a kit, check against the old ones.
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Postby Dell'Orto » Mon Feb 04, 2013 6:34 pm

Cruicible wrote:just re read your post.

Do you have flow from both ports with pipes disconnected?


Not really, maybe a dribble from the front with a geyser from the rear :lol:

Grrrrrrr! wrote:Did you put the little bolt on the side of the master cylinder that holds the front piston in before the front piston was far enough forward? try taking it out then pushing the pedal in a bit, then tightening it up.


I did notice the day after installing it that it was leaking from the stopper bolt, and it was quite loose. Today at lunch I stripped it and reassembled, and with the piston assembly compressed right up, I reinstalled the bolt but it seems to have made no difference. Unless I wasn't compressing it as much as I though?
When you bleed the rear circuit does the pedal go all the way to the floor or stop after not much travel?

Hits the floor

allencr wrote:MC is F'd up, assembled wrong.
Pedal wouldn't go the the floor if that little piston stop bolt was in the wrong position, so you've got a seal or piston in backwards, or if new pistons came in a kit, check against the old ones.


That's what I'm leaning toward...however I've got 4 identical m/cs to compare it to, and the seal orientation appears to be the same. Pistons are definitely in right. I do wonder if perhaps the seal kit is slighty different? I used a kit from BNT, perhaps I should get a genuine kit and see.
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
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Postby crispy'86 » Mon Feb 04, 2013 7:05 pm

it won't take much if the seals are slightly larger in diameter, Measure the piston, the bore size. Seems like something is blocking off the outlet port for the front lines.
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Postby Dell'Orto » Wed Feb 06, 2013 12:04 am

So not 100% sure how, but I've fixed it...I either had the springs the wrong way around (There is a long one and a short one) or this time when I reassembled it I paid close attention to how far the front piston assembly was down before I wound in the stop bolt.
Either, way brakes are mostly bled and we're good to go 8)
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
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