supra rear bushes

[escortman]

so it seems to be that the rear end in my car is getting loser and loser guessing diff mounts have had it, what are my options bearing in mind ride quality is not high on my priorities. I run 18kg front springs and 14 or 16 kg in rear. I believe this along with the new power has caused this issuse. What are my options and rough costs to budget for ? Cheers guys

[Bling]

How old are the current bushes? If old as $&#$%, then i'd just put some new standard ones in and see how it goes. I could have misread the question though?

my2c

[Mr Ree]

You are in luck as currently, there are so many options for what you might need.

You can either buy solid billet bushes for the diff's rear sub frame mounts, and front ear mounts, or a mixture of solid and eurethane, or 100% eurethane, or finally oem bushes.

You can also buy new kits for all the suspension arms, and a set to hold the rear cradle in on solid mounts too.

If you decide NVH isnt a concern, and you plan on some drag action, then solid diff mounts are probably your best choice, although it is highly recommended to replace the gearbox and engine mounts with solid items too so factor that into the cost.

First, I would get the car up on a hoist, and get out a big pry bar and go over every arm on the car to see where the movement is as there is no point just throwing money at it and hoping it cures the problem.

It could be many things so a bit of diagnosis will hopefully save you some money.

[strx7]

for road use the spring rates will be giving the rest of the car @rseoles.
those are track spring rates.

[escortman]

How old are the current bushes? If old as $&#$%, then i'd just put some new standard ones in and see how it goes. I could have misread the question though?

my2c

Im assuming they are the originals from factory so about 17yrs old

You are in luck as currently, there are so many options for what you might need.

You can either buy solid billet bushes for the diff's rear sub frame mounts, and front ear mounts, or a mixture of solid and eurethane, or 100% eurethane, or finally oem bushes.

You can also buy new kits for all the suspension arms, and a set to hold the rear cradle in on solid mounts too.

If you decide NVH isnt a concern, and you plan on some drag action, then solid diff mounts are probably your best choice, although it is highly recommended to replace the gearbox and engine mounts with solid items too so factor that into the cost.

First, I would get the car up on a hoist, and get out a big pry bar and go over every arm on the car to see where the movement is as there is no point just throwing money at it and hoping it cures the problem.

It could be many things so a bit of diagnosis will hopefully save you some money.

Yeh will try get access to a hoist and confirm whats moving about. Thanks for the details on my options.

for road use the spring rates will be giving the rest of the car @rseoles.
those are track spring rates.

Yeh i know they are hence im guessing they are the reason bushs/mounts are wearing out. 14s in the front and 10s in rear was too soft, car is only driven on weekends every so often anyway and will be getting some track time

[strx7]

TRD springs for them are 7.1kg fronts and 5kg rears. and i know a couple of guys who track their car pretty hard on full slicks with those spring rates.

if you found 14/10 too soft i think there is issues with your car (like it has no swaybars, or poked shocks etc). with 18/14 you probably get more chassis flex than suspension movement. for you car to work/handle 18/14 it needs a full cage tieing in all the strut towers.

[Mr Ree]

Truth ^

Escortman, you mentioned spring rates but what shocks and springs are you running? And what swaybars?

I run the TRD grey suspension in mine and I simply cant comprehend how you feel what you currently have is too soft, unless there is something else wrong with the suspension.

[escortman]

Im running HSD adjustables, will be getting whiteline sway bars and braces eventually already running front strut bar. Cage is on the cards next year

The main reason i went for stiffer rate was that when pushing it in the bends had a bit of tyre rub etc which has now been solved.

This movement was always felt even when i was running tein shock and spring combo but since the stiffer setup and more power has gotten worse

I do understand I am running a very hard spring

[Mr Ree]

Do you know if those dampers are well matched to the springs?

Now that you have fixed your wheel rubbing issue, it would be possible to soften things up a little and get a bit of compliance back in the car as it must bounce all over the place how it is at the moment.

Either way, a full set of new bushes and mounts is going to make it fell alot tighter

[escortman]

Yeh the shocks are fine, when theyr wound to full hard its bloody stiff, good for the road from thames to whitianga. At full soft the car behaves a lot nicer, i was actually suprised at how much diff there is between hard and soft.

I think ill price some options up then decide oem vs urethane vs solid

[Mr Ree]

Check out marks engineering for a really good range of stuff, in various materials

[2jayzgte]

I actually thought the TRD spring rates were 10 and 9 as I converted the rates and got 620 odd ft lbs in the front and 520 ft lbs in the rear..

Also another option is going the TRD route for bushes I got all the rear subframe bushes out of the US and have done pretty much the same in the front with TRD Engine mounts also.

[strx7]

I actually thought the TRD spring rates were 10 and 9 as I converted the rates and got 620 odd ft lbs in the front and 520 ft lbs in the rear..
.

could be i just used an online calculator and used your 620/520 rates