Standard gen2 3sgte + 264 cams?

[Grrrrrrr!]

Wondering how the stock computer will handle high lift 264 cams.
Basically wondering if I should grab the cams now and drop them in, or leave the money in the bank and buy all the goodies on my shopping list at the same time.

Don't mind fiddling the fuel pressure to keep it from leaning out if needed, economy and emissions are at the zero $&#$% given end of the list.

[Akane]

Some people with stock gen 2 + HKS 264's have reported success in driveability, due to using AFM to measure intake instead of MAP, but "full mad skidz" is out of the question.

[gt4dude]

^^ -- while we're theorising, i don't subscribe to that theory.

the turbo flows the same as it always did, the afm measures the same as it always did, the difference is that more air is reaching the cyl per intake cycle, and the ecu has no idea whats going on.

the extra flow into the cyls will stoich/lean out a generally rich factory tune, make a little more power from that, but in points on the map where it gets too lean the knock sensor will cap off the power there

same thing will happen whether maf or map.


best bet is to bump up the fuel pressure with a reg, change the fuel filter, and upgrade to a walbro pump. make sure you change your spark plugs, rotor and cap if necessary so you dont blow out your o2 sensor.

the car should drive fairly smooth, maybe a little sluggish below 3000 but to be expected

[iOnic]

the afm measures the same as it always did, the difference is that more air is reaching the cyl per intake cycle

Every cylinder inhales air from the intake manifold. This is connected to the afm via closed piping. Can you explain how the cylinders can receive "more air" than the AFM has measured entering the system?

[sergei]

High duration cams will lower boost (which of course will be compensated by wastegate), increase flow, which will cause AFM to read higher, pushing the ECU into unmapped region under higher loads. When this happens (unmapped region) the two things could happen: "boost cut" can be hit, or ECU goes in "safe" mode (pulling timing and dumping fuel), Engine light might come on.

This belongs in "What is boost" discussion.

[spoonza6]

Maybe valves being open longer than normal cause of upgraded cams?

Open longer...more air?

Or does that not happen when you upgrade cams?

[iOnic]

That air still has to come from somewhere. You can't change the amount of air entering te engine without getting a change in afm reading.

[spoonza6]

Never mind I get ya...

[Grrrrrrr!]

After doing a bit more research, it looks a lot like the small turbine housing on the ct26 will mean fark all extra flow, so might just cost me spool and gain no top end. Which sorta makes it rather pointless. Will wait till I get a reply from Steve Murch if there is anything he can do for a ct26 other than replace it, and keep my eyes out for a cheap turbo thats a little bigger than the ct26.

[iOnic]

^ I don't get what your saying...(sorry I'm still learning)

Isn't Afm at point A and intake at point B...which is no change...but cams are changed so longer intake valve is open more air goes in due to the duration?

I dunno what I'm on about, got it in my mind but knowing your resourcefulness you'll be able to school me on it...

I'm not entirely sure either which is what got me curious. The afm is on the intake pipe so all air available to the vales has to be sucked throught the afm first.

I imagine the engine to be a room with only one door (intake pipe) and a man that doesn't make mistakes (afm) standing at the door counting the number of people coming in (air flow), there is no way you can increase the number of people in the room without affecting the number of people the door man has counted.

Lee did you see the ct20b for sale? Best option IMO. I had my 26 upgraded years ago and even though it matched the ct20b or outright power, it was less responsive.

[Grrrrrrr!]

Yeah, that auction finished yesterday, somebody else grabbed it. Still debating T4 adapter and something a fraction bigger than ct26/20b or leave it the hell alone until Link+cams+EFR6758+manifold etc and sell my left nut to pay for the lot

[iOnic]

I have a ct2x-->t3 adaptor somewhere?

[Grrrrrrr!]

Might be keen, will see what T3 turbos are out there.

[Lith]

Yeah, that auction finished yesterday, somebody else grabbed it. Still debating T4 adapter and something a fraction bigger than ct26/20b or leave it the hell alone until Link+cams+EFR6758+manifold etc and sell my left nut to pay for the lot

Was helping a mate through the same debate, exact same turbo/engine mods but on an SR20 - ended up with a Kando Dynamic TD05H-16G6 (EVO Big 16G) which arrived to his door for $900. They can flow ~40-42lb/min and he is seeing 19psi by 3500rpm, pretty damn good value for money imho and will easily keep him amused until he can afford the engine/drivetrain/fabrication/whatever costs in upgrading to an EFR and getting it to run at it's potential.

[Grrrrrrr!]

Price sounds good if it includes wastgate actuator etc. So id need a td05 to ct26 adapter.

[Lith]

Comes with actuator, fittings etc. Can get them in T25 or T3 flange - which is why it suited the Silvia, T25 flanged internally gated. It holds boost mint.

The prices seem to have gone up slightly from when he bought his a couple of weeks ago, but still -

T3 Flanged TD05: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Anti-Surge-TD05H-16G-w-T3-8cm-V-Band-External-Gate-Hsg-/290920004509?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43bc2efb9d

T25 Flanged TD05:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Cover-TD05H-16G6-T25-Flange-8cm-5-bolt-Internal-Hsg-/281118875022?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4173fd9d8e
^ this is the actual model on the SR20, performs well

Have to add that the oil line they provide is excessively long and you might be better of getting your own sorted out.

[Akane]

stuff

Just stab me in the eye bro.

ionic has it sorted.

[RomanV]

Completely different things will happen whether maf or map.

The best bet for making the car run pointlessly rich is to bump up the fuel pressure with a reg, change the fuel filter, and upgrade to a walbro pump.

fixed.

[Grrrrrrr!]

So, to go further down this turbo selection process, does anybody have a dyno graph for a stock gen2 3sgte with no major mods (intake + exhaust/downpipe acceptable), preferably one that shows boost pressure but I can live without that.

[loudstealthGT-Four]

Factoryish Gen2 3S-GTE, just pod filter, front mount intercooler, 3' downpipe into factory exhaust. Boost topped out at 12psi.

Was in an ST185 in FF mode (front wheels only)