help needed with tune

[Agentspades]

hey all

ive got a turbo 4agze with a link g3 to run her now my issue is that it smells real bad of fuel when its started and wont idle untill its warm and it drives very rough untill its warm it coughs and splutters. when its warm it runs mint as. i have no idea what i can do to change this if anyone can help please let me no and i can email you a copy of my tune to have a look at

my setup:
4agze 16v motor
kelford rally cams
evo 3 510cc injectors
g3 link
+ heaps more but i think thats all thats relevant

thanks heaps in advanced for any help and/or suggestions

cheers,
regan

[Shrike]

Guessing your warm up enrichment is set to high

[Agentspades]

ive had a look at the samples and base maps that come with pclink but my tune is nothing even similar to anything ive found ive only got like half a table for the warm up enrichment

cheers

[Agentspades]

http://www.filedropper.com/mydx

[Shrike]

Your warm up enrichment is looking to rich but I wouldn't want to change it to much without a wide band o2 sensor to check the afr

Personally i would hook up a Wide band and see what the afr is when you start it up currently

Then adjust the warm up enrichment table until its between 12:1-13:1

Guessing itll be around the 10:1-11:1 range atm

Please note this is all off the top of my head and would be easier if I had the car in front of me

Guessing youve checked for things like leaking injectors etc (in saying that if it goes away once warm then I doubt youd have an injector issue)

[Agentspades]

my car does have an AFR gauge in the car and it reads between 13 and 14 closer to 14 tho but i am unsure how accurate this so i will get another one sused and check it out and get back to you thanks for the help much appreciated

EDIT: i have a 4 wire bosch O2 sensor if this means anything

cheers,
regan

[Leiden]

Since it has cams it'll have low vacuum at idle and you'll be wanting to run the mixtures richer than 13-14:1 to get it to idle properly

Was the ecu tuned for your setup?

Also might pay to check your timing when warm, should be around 10 deg btdc?

[Agentspades]

yea i dropped the car into performance auto electrical as they often do cold start tunes and they got it to idle a little bit better but they said it wont get much better than that so im sorta screwed on that.

yea the ecu was dyno tuned as it is and nothing has changed since then.

ill probably be pulling this setup out of my dx and keeping it for later and just running a carb setup coz atm i dont really have the time or the money to keep putting into it

[molex]

What's your cold idle? Sounds like it needs to be a bit higher...

[Agentspades]

I have found out theres nothing that can be done tune wise because the cams are very large and have near 0 vac at 1500 rpm so lack of vac makes it not idle correctly

[QikStarlie]

if the cams are big enough, it will idle rough yes. but shouldn't be much worse on cold start, than when warm if setup right. if it runs bad when driving on cold start, its definitely setup wrong.
kelfold "rally cams" wont be huge. will be possible to get it to run fine. long as you are not expecting a nice smooth idle.

if you are low on vac. may need to have it re-tuned using a "4d" overlay map. so it runs in tps mode off boost.

a single throttle plenum setup will idle worse on big cams, than itb's also.

it also depends on how the cam timing is dialed in

[Agentspades]

A rough or lumpy idle would be sweet as but it doesnt idle when cold but idles semi sweet when warm it doesnt have an idle air control valve set up so perhaps thats the issue. Im using a 3sgte throttle body on an ae86 manifold.s while the motors out ill get some head work done and will need a full retune after wards so ill setup the cams again from scratch so hopefully this will sus it out for once and all

[jondee86]

... it doesnt have an idle air control valve set up...

Engine needs more air on cold start to push the idle up and keep
the fuel suspended until it gets into the cylinder. Normal action for
an ECU controlled ISCV is to go full open for starting. Without an
ISCV you will have to wind the air bypass open until the engine will
start, and put up with a higher than wanted idle when it warms up.

Haven't tried this, but you may be able to make an on/off idle-up
valve from an A/C idle-up valve. Just hook it up to the inlet manifold
and give it 12V for starting. Switch it off once the engine has warmed
up enough to not need the extra air.

Cheers... jondee86

[QikStarlie]

yeh a/c solenoid trick works fine. easy to setup on g3 link. gp output and switch on ect. turn off at 50-60 degrees