2JZ oil pump blown?? crank shaft seal??

[92mr2paddy]

any links to good ones? my mate is coming over next weekend and possibly will bring one with him. so your saying no matter how tight it seems she will come off with a decent puller? thanks

[Crucible]

Yeah a decent puller should do the job. I have an old sykes pickervant one I use on all tight crank pulleys. If you still have trouble you may need to use heat as last option but you may damage it for the sake of getting it off.

Just heat the centre a little at a time and keep the rest of it cool with wet rags.

[92mr2paddy]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 344306.htm

would this be 'heavy duty' enough? just trying to get an idea if my mates one also doesnt do the job.

[Crucible]

Toledo is good gear. Are you using a legged puller? They are useless unless you have the type with a locking plate to stop the legs spreading.

Use a plate and bolt type puller, they dont buckle like the above.

[92mr2paddy]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 651814.htm

thats the kind i have, has worked 3x on getting 2jz/1jz balancers off in the past with no problems, till now.

[Crucible]

Yeah generally they will get most tight cast dampners off. I know aftermarket steel ones can be an interferance fit and take a bit more to budge as ive struck that before.

You may not have any choice but to use heat, but try and get your hands on a good bolt puller and try that first.

[92mr2paddy]

cheers, will update how things go, planning to throw up some pics of the failed FMS, (if that it is the problem)

finally had a few spare hours to attack my car, managed to get the front half of the ati pulley off to then try heat up the steal collar with oxy set then try the pulley again, did not budge!!!!

now im left with this to still get off, i cant heat it up too much or the plastic cover will melt away..

[92mr2paddy]

updated with pic.

[Mr Ree]

Do you have any heat shielding to put in front of the timing covers?

If not, then you could try and use lots of wet rags?

GL

[92mr2paddy]

yea i might cut the bottom half of the timing cover, ive got a spare 1jz one, pretty sure its the same? the ati pulley is *uckt anyway so worst case ill carefully cut this steel part off without damaging crank, haha will probably just get a standard new pulley once i have the new seal in place.

[92mr2paddy]

ok so i cut timing cover off as ati collar won't budge!, cleaned it all up with cover off and put radiator back in, ran car for about 1minute to see if any oil will run from either pump housing or FMS, or even the new cam seals,, nothing!! thinking about just throwing it back together properly and running it without cover for a bit too see where things are going wrong as i cannot remove the collar, will probably need to take block out to get that thing off.

[MrOizo]

Try having some plate made up so you can bolt it to the hub and use a slide hammer. The impact might help break any bond there is.

How was it installed? Was it put in with the bolt or a proper installer?

[92mr2paddy]

thats a wicked idea!! i got another ati pulley from a mate and will bolt the outer part on and run car/drive it for a short distance with covers off too see where things are going wrong, if it is the FMS then yes will definately make something up for a slide hammer!! put on using bolt, with anti seize arp stuff on crank, it went half on by hand and the bolt didnt take any huge amount to get it on the rest of the way hence its weird it wont budge now, lol

[MrOizo]

Yeah, very weird!

With my ATI, I had the problem of not having the key in the groove 100% and wouldn't go on. Took a bit of smoothing the burrs to get it on again. I used the bolt as i couldn't find a install kit locally.

I used some anti seize grease - I hope I don't have these same issues when it comes to servicing the cambelt and water pump again

[Py7h0n]

Be careful with slide hammers - You can seriously trash the thrust washers in no time. Heating the ATI does help but you need to be very careful to not create hot spots (weaknesses).

Also - Green coolant + JZ = no good. Do a flush and change to red before you start getting corrosion.

Oh and oil will only leak from the FMS / Cam seals when under pressure from the crankcase.

[Mr Ree]

Yes to all ^

It will take some thrashing to build up enough pressure to leak out the FMS, but will surely be easier to see with no covers on it.

GL

[92mr2paddy]

mr ree, if it comes from thrashing it and it causing it to leak past the seal, wouldnt the seal be then pushed out of place and then always leaking even when 'not' thrashing it?? will be putting it back together this weekend and taking it for a lap to see if it leaks when just driving it like a nana.

about the coolant, its that tectoly stuff thats ment to prevent corrosion on cast iron blocks??

[Mr Ree]

No idea TBH, I guess ever case is different, but I have read many times in the US forums about seepage past the FMS, so Im guessing it doesnt have to be blown completely out of place to leak.

Especially if you consider the cars are 20 years old now, thats alot of time to get heat cycled and shrink slightly.

I would just play it safe with the coolant and run the red, as its cheap insurance. The most important thing if you decide to do the swap is to ensure you get every last drop of the green stuff out first.

[touge rolla]

I would just play it safe with the coolant and run the red, as its cheap insurance. The most important thing if you decide to do the swap is to ensure you get every last drop of the green stuff out first.

Huh? could you elaborate on the differences between red and green coolant?
I have noticed that the red stuff leaves stains behind..... But otherwise thought they were much the same ie glycol

[Mr Ree]

Unlike the majority of Green antifreeze, Toyotas red coolant has no silicates or borates in it.

Silicates have been attributed to long term damage to seals, and borates can cause pitting to aluminum.

And for a far more detailed explanation, please read Rogue Supras posts in many coolant threads on SF