Replacing valve seals without removing head

[GDII]

My GEN 2 3S-GE smokes quite abit when cold. I suspect valve seals. Would getting a compression test done be best to rule out the piston rings?

Would people recommend changing the valve seals without removing the head? I would use the rope method and get a decent valve spring compressor if I was going to do it. I would be doing water pump and cam belt at the same time so the engine might come out at that time.

Or the other option would be to get a lower km GEN 3 engine and tweak the loom to suit the new ECU and engine sensors.

[Stott69]

Just dont drop the rope. Cant remember who but someone posted awhile ago who do I fish rope out of the engine.

[GDII]

Yes I read that. I think it got tangled. Not ideal if it does happen.

[iOnic]

I'd do a cylinder leakage test first. Then if you do need to replace the stem seals, I'd honestly pull it out and pull the head off. Will make you hate life way less than trying to do it in place.

[Mr Revhead]

Yeah that was.... Forget his bloody nick... Chalkie or something.
Wheres he gone?

[Mr Revhead]

Solitaire! Thats who it was

[Dell'Orto]

You can get a device to pressurise the cylinder which will keep the valves closed (Provided they seal!) so you can do them in place.
You could make one easily enough with an old/cheap compression tester

[GDII]

With all the tools and parts I'd need to buy to rebuild the current engine I'd be better off upgrading to a GEN 3. But I'd need a good one with known history.

[Shrike]

With all the tools and parts I'd need to buy to rebuild the current engine I'd be better off upgrading to a GEN 3. But I'd need a good one with known history.

I have the tool in my tool box to remove valve seals with the head on if you pressurize the cylinder with a air compressor

If you have a compression tester it isnt hard to modify it which you can reverse back

[GDII]

Can anyone recommend a decent valve spring compressor? Some look like they won't work very well and will just bend under normal use.

[Akane]

removing the head ain't hard at all, strongly suggest you take that route.

[GDII]

It's not the removing part that worries me. It's if anything goes wrong, such as a warpped head and not installing the head properly. I have changed a head gasket before but not sure how well it worked. Head was badly pitted from BHG and still used water after a new one went on. Sold it not long after so no idea if it lasted.

[jaypines]

if you want to proceed changing the valve seals without taking the head off, you will need this tool or something similar. i think you cannot use a regular valve spring compressor for the 3sg head due to space limitations.

[Shrike]

if you want to proceed changing the valve seals without taking the head off, you will need this tool or something similar. i think you cannot use a regular valve spring compressor for the 3sg head due to space limitations.

I have that tool :p

[Adoom]

if you want to proceed changing the valve seals without taking the head off, you will need this tool .....

HOLY SHIT! THAT'S $&#$% AMAZING!!!! I MUST HAVE ONE!!! It took me FOREVER to remove 16 valve springs!

[GDII]

Well that was fast. And I see how changing the seals on a 3S head won't be easy with the head on without that tool. You can't physically grab the spring with a normal tool. I've been watching too many American V8 videos....

I have also been following a GEN2 rebuild and didn't even look at the spring locations...

I think now it's time for research on costs of rebuilding the current engine or finding a decent GEN3 and tweak the loom to suit.

Would people recommend getting the head resurfaced or would cleaning it up if there is no damage work OK?

At the end of the day if I rebuild the GEN2 I've spent a large chunk of money to only have a rather average engine. I'm not after silly power but 100rwhp is a bit weak.

[jacobrjett]

Pulling the head will be the easiest way but you should really, change the head gasket and head bolts which makes it more expensive

Is it non turbo? You will gain some power by milling the head and cleaning up the casting marks in the ports with the head out then too for cheap

[jacobrjett]

Oh if your running a standard gasket make sure you dont get any gasket paper in the oil or water galleries when your scraping the block down, it does float to the top if theres some water still in the block but its a pain to fish out lol

[allencr]

Oil consumption?

...smokes quite abit when cold. I suspect valve seals. Would getting a compression test done be best to rule out the piston rings?

I wouldn't suspect stem seals if it smoked more then 15 seconds cold start and didn't give a little puff when revved after a long period idling.
Seals NEVER cure oil consumption, despite much anecdotal evidence.
The compression ring's condition doesn't really have any relation to the oil control rings being worn and/or sludged up, so the compression test is good for overall engine condition, cylinder, piston & compression ring wear, but not for specifically where smoke is coming from.

[GDII]

It smokes when take off from cold and when half warm after a long downhill off throttle. It uses about 1 litre per 1000km on long trips. More on short trips which it does most of now.

Not sure if I need to get new head bolts. Depends on the type I guess. Obviously need a new head gasket, unfortunately Toyota don't have any GEN2 3S-GE seal kits left. I will have to buy the seals separately. I've never done this sort of work to an engine before so it will be a learning curve.