1 and 2JZ info?

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1 and 2JZ info?

Postby FST4RD » Wed Nov 06, 2013 4:52 pm

Hi all, have couple questions hope I can get answered.

Do 1jz and 2jz share the same mountings? Ie are they interchangeable?
Do they all share the same gearbox mountings?
I understand that they come with different sumps?
Are the auto and manual ones different?

Did a quick search, but couldn't find exactly what I was looking for.
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Re: 1 and 2JZ info?

Postby e30-323ti » Wed Nov 06, 2013 5:20 pm

FST4RD wrote:Hi all, have couple questions hope I can get answered.

Do 1jz and 2jz share the same mountings? YESIe are they interchangeable?YES, the 2jz block is ~40mm taller so need more bonnet clearance.
Do they all share the same gearbox mountings?YES, Same Bellhousing bolt pattern
I understand that they come with different sumps?YES/NO, Both come in front & rear sump variants
Are the auto and manual ones different?NO, Base engines are the same, 2JZ's come with bigger torque convertors than the 1JZ's (for *GTE's) AFAIK

Did a quick search, but couldn't find exactly what I was looking for.
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Postby FST4RD » Wed Nov 06, 2013 5:24 pm

Legend!
I've just found a set of mounts that a guy knocks up to drop the 2jz and r154 or w series box, I can't remember which one, directly into a starion
I was thinking perhaps just a non turbo vvti as they seem to have heaps of snot, and perhaps go the turbo route later on.
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Postby Mr Ree » Wed Nov 06, 2013 5:31 pm

Just keep in mind that the vvti 2JZGE has weaker rods than the non vvti GE, incase you were thinking about performing an na-t conversion down the track.
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Postby FST4RD » Wed Nov 06, 2013 6:25 pm

Mr Ree wrote:Just keep in mind that the vvti 2JZGE has weaker rods than the non vvti GE, incase you were thinking about performing an na-t conversion down the track.


If I had the money I would go straight for a factory turbo.
How easy is a turbo upgrade? What do you need?

How well do the vvti non turbo ones go? Bearing in mind it will be in a car that's only just over a ton.
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Postby Mr Ree » Wed Nov 06, 2013 10:36 pm

The vvti GE is a great motor, and would be enough for most people, especially in a sub one ton car.

I only mentioned the rods because you mentioned a turbo lol ;)

They are easy to na-t, but not cheap if you want to do a nice job of it.

Although in saying that, if you were happy with circa 280 whp, you could just keep the engine sealed, add a walbro, and have a nice peppy high compression build on your hands.

Will you be running an R154?
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Postby FST4RD » Thu Nov 07, 2013 6:05 am

Mr Ree wrote:The vvti GE is a great motor, and would be enough for most people, especially in a sub one ton car.

I only mentioned the rods because you mentioned a turbo lol ;)

They are easy to na-t, but not cheap if you want to do a nice job of it.

Although in saying that, if you were happy with circa 280 whp, you could just keep the engine sealed, add a walbro, and have a nice peppy high compression build on your hands.

Will you be running an R154?


I'm not sure which gearbox. With the engine mounts he makes there is one particular gearbox where the shifter pops up in the right place I'll have to find out which one
I know with the r154 about the washer problem.
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Postby MAC_HATER » Thu Nov 07, 2013 8:52 am

If you can get a R154, go for it, despite the Trucky feel to it, its a great box, The washer issue only becomes a problem after 450-500hp doesnt it? or is it something else altogether?
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Postby Mr Ree » Thu Nov 07, 2013 10:16 am

The thrust washer in the R154 is considered an issue but lets be honest here, the same people who say that also consider an 800hp Supra to be modest, and a gearbox that fails when being fed 3 times its rated power and axle tramping up the strip, as weak.

Murica!!!

If you are going to stick to the vvti GE, sans snail, then I would heavily recommend you stick to the "shifts like butter" W58, but if you forsee snails and lots of boost in your future, then definitely get a "shifts like tractor" R154 to avoid having to tow the car home from the drags/track/remote location if/when the W58 spills its guts ;)

I rebuilt my R154 with all of the upgraded MC parts, but thats because I didnt want to ever worry about it failing while beating on it at the track, if it was a 100% road car, I wouldnt have cracked it open
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Postby FST4RD » Thu Nov 07, 2013 2:12 pm

Car is going to be built for track, already has rollcage etc.
So would be mildly worked vvti motor have the ability to role a w series box? Or am I better going straight for the r154?
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Postby MAC_HATER » Thu Nov 07, 2013 2:15 pm

I would say go straight for the R154 since its going to be tracked, a W5x might be ok on the street if babied, but on the track you will slag it in no time, and after about 5 or so gearbox replacements you will switch to a R154 and think "why didint i do this in the first place?!?!"
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Postby Mr Ree » Thu Nov 07, 2013 3:07 pm

FST4RD wrote:Car is going to be built for track, already has rollcage etc.
So would be mildly worked vvti motor have the ability to role a w series box? Or am I better going straight for the r154?


What tyres will you be using? If they are super sticky, then an R154 would be the better choice, but if just using radials, behind an NA vvti, then the W58 should be ok, provided its in good condition when you get it. They arent as weak as the internet suggests, but the hard part though, is not knowing whats happened to it prior to you buying it.

For what its worth, I tracked my big whale for years with the W58, and had no issues, although I do show alot of mechanical sympathy for whatever Im driving, and I always run Redline oil, and a slightly soft clutch to avoid shock loading the box as thats the main reason they fail.

If you are planning on owning it for the forseeable future, running slicks, or turbo, then I would just suggest avoiding any potential hassle and buying a brand new remote shift R154 for $3k...job done!
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Postby Stu- » Thu Nov 07, 2013 5:07 pm

2jz plus quads or carbs please

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Postby Mr Ree » Thu Nov 07, 2013 7:29 pm

Just promise if you do go that route ^ will do away with the GE cam/coil covers and replace them with the GTE bits :)
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Postby e30-323ti » Thu Nov 07, 2013 7:50 pm

I've had a W58 (JZA80 version) behind a 290whp 1JZ in my track car without issue.

The E30 is ~1100kg running 235/40 semi's.

So long as you're not a ham fisted gear mashing clutch kicker then they do last well, and wouldn't think an R154 would be needed for an NA 2JZ.
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Postby Mr Ree » Thu Nov 07, 2013 9:32 pm

Agreed ^ Its all about how you treat them.
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Postby FST4RD » Thu Nov 07, 2013 9:45 pm

Thanks for all the input guys
I tend to go for reliability, so no over the top horsepower, clutchs etc.
I'd rather drive the car to the track, have a day of fun and then drive home again.
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Postby Mr Ree » Fri Nov 08, 2013 9:00 am

Well, you have chosen the right family of engine, if reliability is what you are after...even when you throw big turbos at them, they dont even flinch.

Engineered to cope with stupid power in stock form, and then detuned from the factory...great recipe :)

Reliability is big on my list too, and I drive my car to the track and back all the time...its not fun trying to wring every last killerwasp out of your set up then having to call the tow truck when it goes Pete Tong ;)
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Postby strx7 » Fri Nov 08, 2013 1:22 pm

I'd think a W57 would be a nice set of ratios for a 2JZGE VVTi, they are a great motor and the punch down low of a early 2JZGE is VERY noticable, having owned a JCE10 & JZA80 at the same time.
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