Link LEMG1 V3 - 20v 4age ignition timing

[thegreatestben]

Hi so I have an ae101 with a silver top wired up with a link as detailed above. Was running but previous owner ran engine dry. Swapped to this motor and it won't start. I have fuel and spark an there's data on the ecu but when checking timing when starting the timing light tells me that it's WAY out. All timing marks line up, check all the basics but can't get it better than like 10deg after tdc.

Is there a setting I can alter to right this like I could with my g3?

Any ideas? I suspect this is all that's stopping it from firing up.

Also this is hand controller only which I have

[matt dunn]

Short answer is no,

as I believe that cranking speed ignition timing or base timing is kinda pre-set in the sub board and cant be changed,
and the ignition timing programming can only add advance from the base timing from about 500rpm onwards.

Must be either an engine timing, trigger or wiring issue.

[matt dunn]

Is there a setting I can alter to right this like I could with my g3?
Also this is hand controller only which I have

Presume that is a type as G3 and V3 are very different, lol

and there is no hand control for g3.

[thegreatestben]

Yeah understand the G3 and G1v3 are VERY different.

Hand control only on the V3

Got a few ideas to try from the oldschool chaps. Also forgot to mention on here it's running a mitsi Igniter:




Stock coil and dizzy still

[85AW20v]

You can get the cam timing on the 20v out quite easily as there are two sets of marks on the cam wheels. Look down the oil filler hole to make sure the inlet cam is in the right place - there's a long dimple that should line up with the edge of the oil hole when at TDC. The exhaust cam timing mark is the dot not the line. The line should line up with a dot on the inlet cam at the point where the cam wheels are closest together. This shows what I mean. http://image.importtuner.com/f/tech/impp_1207_tomei_powered_poncams/38337548/impp-1207-12-o%2Btomei-powered-poncams%2Bcam-gears.jpg.

Hope it helps.

[thegreatestben]

Oh yup, didn't see that, but did see the two dots at 12 oclock lining up with the marks in the cam cover.
Will pull it off again when I do my suggested checks. Somethings up!

[85AW20v]

What was the issue with this in the end?

[thegreatestben]

Oh, the Link it's quite old as per date on the board.
Showing it to the guys at Link they pointed out it will only operate on a 4 tooth pulse signal for the ignition. The 20v distributor is 24 tooth. I went and looked at the original motor from the car which the previous owner still had that was running on this link.

It only had 4 teeth So I marked the same teeth on my distributor as his had been outside and was corroded, ground off the teeth slapped it in and tried firing it up. Nothing.

Dang.

Smelt that magical smell of hot electrics and felt the coil, hmm that's warm.

Felt the ignitor (mitsi one from wasted spark dohc mitsi's) $&#$% THATS HOT.

Swapped to spare channel on ignitor, burnt that out too.

Dang.

Went to pick a part, acquired a stock toyota ignitor and another mitsi one. Was gonna go straight to toyota one but thought I'd give the mitsi one a go. Pulled dizzy off head, ignition on, plugs out connected to leads. Spin dizzy, only got spark on 1 & 4.

Take lead off dizzy. Spark for every tooth. Check cap and rotor.

$&#$%! The mitsi ignitor is not designed for use with a distributor. I believe that due to this it does not have any protection in the circuitry for the chance of a bad cap/rotor as that would never happen in its original use.

So new cap and rotor - fired right up. knock knock knock... Number 4 big end spun and the cranks $&#$% from it being run for a bit I'd say. Have another complete 20v coming with stock ECU and loom. Gonna go back to stock and sell loom/ecu.

Aside from the horrible sounds coming from no.4 it started well idled etc.