Brake noises (Not the fun sort)

[Ismart120]

Ok

Manual 93 NA SW20 running stock brakes

Recently noticed a squeaking/squealing sound with light braking and a bit of a grinding sound with heavier braking at slow speeds (think the sound of old suspension going over a bump - sounds near exactly like that) so took the car into the local brake place for one of the free brake checks. They said that all the rotors had mild bedding in them and it was going to cost x for machining. At the time on the phone they also said we can do the pads at the same time for $200 but the existing ones are not even half worn so , being a student and knowing very little about brakes in general, I declined the new pads.

Anyway, picked the car up, was expensive as heck anyway. Mechanic said that the rotors were now at minimum and in the next 6 months I was looking at new rotors etc to the tune of $800.

Anyway, brakes seemed ok for the trip back but tonight I noticed both sounds again and, looking at the rotors, I can see where the pads are not connecting.

Thoughts on what my options are at this stage? I realise now after a bit of ringing around and searching that I should have just taken it somewhere else and gotten new pads. Take it back and get them to check it over again, or go to my regular mechanic, take it on the chin and get them to put new pads in for what I can only imagine would be a far more reasonable rate?

[85AW20v]

Or buy OEM pads off the forum sponsor http://forums.toyspeed.org.nz/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=66290 and fit them yourself. Would be a half hour job each wheel at the most.

[Mr Revhead]

I assume that $800 was for all four rotors?

[Grrrrrrr!]

$800 for new rotors? lol, hope they were going to be generous with the KY. The parts can be had for well less than half that. From memory I got my last full set for just over two hundy, but thats was via a bit of a hookup. Decent pads for typical road use + fluid cost about the same again. And 3-4 hours to fit them, and fully bleed the brakes (being generous/slow).

If you are in Auckland I can help you fit the pads/bleed the brakes. Its a pretty simple job. Drop me a PM if you want a hand, wont be next weekend tho, I'm outta the country.

[Ismart120]

Yep - that was for all four plus pads.

I would just grab some new pads and fit but I'm not/wasn't entirely convinced its just that, hence why I took it in initially.
Thanks for the offer - I'm unfortunately down in Christchurch so a little far to go for brakes.

Without hookups, what would be a fair price for rotors anyway?

[Mr Revhead]

Put your location in your details for future reference

I'm sure a Chch member would be happy to take a look and give you some instruction on how to sort things out yourself.
But, brakes are not something to muck with unless you know what you are doing

[Grrrrrrr!]

The prices in the tgp parts thread linked above are a good guide, and you know they are good quality. You might be able to pick rotors up for $80 each if you shop around. Toyota prices are pretty reasonable on most consumable/normal wear parts.

Try pricing up fraud mondeo genuine parts for a cambelt replacement.

[Ismart120]

But, brakes are not something to muck with unless you know what you are doing

This is exactly why I like mechanics who know brakes to do brakes. I'm happy to try things on my car as long as the outcome is it not moving if I get it wrong, rather than teh otherway round.

I'll have a ring around then - I'm going to take it back and talk to them about things but I'm not going to be spending any more money there no.
Any ideas on what the other sounds might be or is it just a replace the pads and see thing?

And thanks - have put a location on my profile too

[Crucible]

Pads and rotors will most definately be glazed causing the squeeking etc. Its always good practice when replacing pads to machine or if undersize replace the rotors so the pads can bed in properly. Fitting new pads to a worn, glazed rotor runs the risk of the new linings glazing up and causing brake noise.

Most people would rather put up with brake noise then spend the money..

[rollaholic]

if you've got old pads on your newly smooth rotors, the pads will have grooves in them matching where the grooves in the rotor used to be. once you wear these down (wont take long) you'll start getting a nice even contact with the rotors again.

i personally am not a fan of machining rotors, preferring just to replace them if they are undersized or overly glazed - or leave them if not. though in my experience noise is most often caused by pads, whether it be a cheap set, or an inappropriate compound, or whatever. in the case of toyotas genuine pads are decent and affordable to the point where i wouldnt consider fitting anything else.

[Crucible]

They should of been deglazed or sanded flat with course sandpaper if refitted with new rotors.

[rollaholic]

i agree, but it doesnt sound like they were

[allencr]

Recently noticed a squeaking/squealing sound with light braking and a bit of a grinding sound with heavier braking at slow speeds.... ...free brake checks.

What kind of noise after you've been on them heavy, 2-3 times from 100>0?? Go away for days/weeks after that?
Sure noise is Important & you were right to have some concern, but a little slow speed noise when cold is nothing at all, a common part of the game, normal and most if not all times should just be ignored.
The old pads will eventually conform to the fresh surface on the disks or I should say the useless machining will be undone by the old pads. Machine them only if they've got runout/wobble causing pedal pulsing &steering wheel shaking or it' a race car that needs them to conform immediately.
The 'free' is bait & they hooked you. Advertising is not a public service, they wanted $$$ and because its a new or bad reputation business, they went fishing.

[Ismart120]

Noticed the sound about 2 weeks ago (and booked in not long after that) - when I'm meaning heavy braking in this sense, its a slow speed coming to a complete stop down a very steep drive and its making a lovely graunching sound.

Haven't had any issues with braking from 100-0 before but haven't tried it since, 80-0 has been fine. And yeah, all of these sounds are when warm brakes.

I had actually assumed the pads would have been sanded by the shop but have been less than impressed overall by the service so I'm not that surprised. Am looking into toyota pads now anyhow.

As for the free part - fully aware of that, and I went in as I was having some of those issues so knew something was needing done, I had thought that being a brake specialist that they'd be a bit better with the end result. Lesson learnt

[allencr]

Some just make noise.
If using them heavy or using the brake while keeping your foot on the gas to really heat'm up doesn't eliminate or reduce the sound for a few weeks, then try working with what you've got or try a different brand.
Taper the leading edge.
Goop from parts store, gasket paper or shoe box stuff between the piston & pad.
ALL the anti-rattle springy things in place? Clean & smooth & polish them up where they make contact with the pad, its backing plate same thing - metal to metal contact surfaces as smooth as possible.
Lube on the caliper slides, rotate the pins if possible so its running on a new/different/un-worn surface.
Anti-sieze will attract dirt/smegma but last resort, a TINY bit on the backing plate front edge where it contacts the caliper.
Good luck.
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Also, those $&#$% may have put the disks back on the hubs in different positions or just over tightened them or not tightened them in a correct sequence. Look at the hub through their index holes. See an old rusty spot or does it look fresh - unexposed? Disks tightened down on the old rust spot, overtightened or tightened fully one by one instead of cris-cross in steps may soon warp.

[Crucible]

^ done a few by the sounds of it

[Ismart120]

Ok, late update;
put new pads in, everything works well. No issues. The genuine Toyota ones now in there are 10x better than the old ones too so overall a win I think

Thanks for all the help (and obviously, lesson learnt._