Couple of 4AGE questions

[Vertigo]

Sup dudes, last weekend I spent dropping my engine and installing my rebuilt one! Mostly went well, few problems though.

1) I fitted a 20v starter motor to the intake side, and everything was sweet. On the new engine, with new water pipes, its fouling and wont line up. I cant really get an angle to see whats going on exactly, anyone know what I need to modify here? Is it the bracket I should grind down, or do I need to bash the pipe itself a bit? Or is it the external oil return pipe?

2) The fuel injectors seem to be fully on now when plugged in. Might have tweaked the wiring when dropping the first engine. Seems to be that because the injectors have a constant 12v source and are switched to ground to activate, they are probably being grounded somewhere before the ECU. They hold fuel pressure when unplugged. Sound right? Just wanted to confirm.

3) Any tips to get tight new water hoses onto pipes? Having a bitch of a time with them. Doing hot water + dish washing liquid, but not really helping much

[Vertigo]

Fuel injector issue solved by replacing them, double checking the wiring, all seems good now.

[Dell'Orto]

#3, silicon spray has always worked for me

[Vertigo]

Ended up going with a slightly bigger hose.

Starter is still giving me grief, its annoying.. mechanic who installed the starter on that intake side had this problem initially, but solved it, Id love to know how, but he cant remember

One more question: Clutch lines are bone dry, no amount of bleeding seems to help. Do I need to fill the slave cylinder somehow? Any ideas?

[GDII]

I've seen the method of filling the clutch line from the bottom (slave to mater) using a squeezy oil can. Have you bled the master first? If the master isn't working then you won't be able to fill the lines and the slave cylinder won't get any fluid.
What's your bleed method?

[Dell'Orto]

As above, if you did clutch master too, it'll need to be bench bed first. Otherwise, a vacuum bleeder will get it going. When I did my SW20 I found pushing the clutch pedal to the floor first before applying vaccum to the slave made it go much quicker

[Vertigo]

Ended up getting a vacuum bleeder, and immediately had an issue where the lines wouldnt supply any more fluid, and held vacuum. Last night we found that was being caused by a black disc that sits in the fluid reservoir, which would plug the supply line and create vacuum. Is this a normal thing to have? I figure its some kind of air blocking disc, so you dont fill your lines with air when running dry. Annoying in any case. But fixed now, clutch feels great.

The fuel system problem is back again... injectors unplugged, key on 38psi, key off.... zero. Somethings not right. The two pressure regulators on the fuel rail are a factory supply side reg, and a return side aftermarket adjustable reg with gauge. Last weekend, the rail held pressure fairly constantly on key off, as expected. Last night, drops to zero. No external leaks though, no visible fuel, or fuel smell.

So possibilities:
1. One of the pressure regs is shot. I rate this unlikely.
2. One of the injectors is leaking. I rate this more likely, but still weird, as they havent been touched in a week, and held pressure just fine then.

Cant really think of anything else.

Could one of the injectors have randomly shat itself? Or perhaps is wedged open by dirt? Could I be spraying fuel onto the valves full bore?

[Grrrrrrr!]

Why two FPRs?

[Vertigo]

Nothing unusual, one on each end of the fuel rail. Thats how it was when I bought my car with factory system. All I did was replace one with an aftermarket type.

Edit: Sorry, I think its more of a damper than a regulator, on the supply side

[jondee86]

The fuel system problem is back again... injectors unplugged, key on 38psi,
key off.... zero. Somethings not right. The two pressure regulators on the fuel
rail are a factory supply side reg, and a return side aftermarket adjustable reg
with gauge. Last weekend, the rail held pressure fairly constantly on key off,
as expected. Last night, drops to zero. No external leaks though, no visible
fuel, or fuel smell.

Usual arrangement is pulsation damper on the inlet to the fuel rail and FPR on
the outlet side. Pressure is retained in the rail after engine shutdown by a non-
return valve in the fuel pump. If the rail does not hold pressure it will be the non-
return valve that is leaking and allowing some small amount of fuel to return to
the tank. Should not be a biggie, as pressure builds as soon as the pump starts up.

Cheers... jondee86

[whynot]

You could let the pump run for a bit then check and see if there's any petrol in the motor by taking the spark plugs out and turning it over to open the valves. If it's a reasonable leak from the injectors then it would show that way. I suppose you could also pressurize the system then break the return line and put it into a container to see if the regulator is leaking. Also do us a favor and wear safety glasses and don't set fire to you or the car. I have seen that happen when someone forgot to disable the ignition system and then turned the car over. Petrol sprayed out of the sparkplug hole then ignited off the ht lead sitting near by.