Installed keyless entry Caldina 96

[blobbi]

I have a 96 caldina ST195 4wd wagon, import, falling to pieces.
I keep leaving the bloody key in the lock when I get my daughter out of her baby seat and then walking off.
So I thought installing remote keyless entry would be helpful before someone drove off with my car.
I was quoted $120 to do this and extra to get the lights and horn to work, thought that it was a little pricey.

I could find lots of info on how to do this for most other species of Toyota, but not a Caldina.
It took me fricking ages to do when actually it is a really straight forward job, so if you want to do it then I recommend it as its an easy job and I managed to get keyless remote entry in the car for around $10.

So here is how I did it:

Ordered a kit from eBay, free delivery from china, took around 2 weeks to get to me.
I am pretty sure it does not really mater which one you get as the one I bought the antenna had already fallen off when it arrived.
I would suggest testing it on the battery before you do anything else for piece of mind (I did this by connecting the 12v and ground to the battery, plugging in the LED and then programming a remote, and it worked!) Phew.
My car has central locking already that operates only from the drivers door. Lots of sites said I would need to install an actuator but it turns out that is not the case. Which is good. As I did not fancy taking the door panels off.
So everything is under the drivers side kick panel or steering wheel. You can easily take off all three panels with a philips screw driver.

Wires may be different colours etc so double check with a voltmeter before you do anything as its not my fault if you screw it up.
Disconnected the ground on the battery (had to reconnect to find the right wires and also at the end).
The 12v is white, under ignition
Ground to a ground point by the kick panel
The car is negative central locking which basically means that the lock/unlock both rest at 12v and then when you hit the button they drop to 0v (or ground).
I tested heaps of wires before I worked this puppy out, and eventually took the switch out of the door and found the correct wires.
They were lock - red/brown (most websites say it is meant to be blue/black or blue/white but not this one!) and unlock - blue/yellow.
To test: hold the voltmeter on the appropriate wire, it should read 12v, then trigger lock or unlock and it should drop to 0v.
There were corresponding wires going into a connector in the kick panel, I tested and confirmed these.
You connect these to the appropriate wires on your wireless box and hey presto, it worked with the wireless remote.

One final tip, I bought some snap wire splicers thinking it would make my life easier, but they were awful, very temperamental and not worth the money.
I would properly splice them together and then cover in electrical tape.
The control box I tidied up and hid away with cable ties underneath the dash.
I am yet to connect the indicators but I do not imagine that would be too hard. Cannot be bothered with the horn.
Put all the panels back as they were.
Went to the fridge and opened a beer.

So in summary it is an easy job. You need to connect literally 3 wires and ground a couple more. Should take a normal person under an hour, took me around 3!

These sites might help:
http://www.rclick.co.uk/documents/Universal_Fitting_All_Vehicles.pdf
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/vehiclewiring/1/yeard/Toyota.html
http://www.alarmsellout.com/support/diagrams/vehicle/TOYOTA%20COROLLA%201984-2006.pdf

[blobbi]

Took me 5 minutes to work out the indicators and hook them up. Working well and a nice easy, cheap upgrade.

[matt dunn]

Does the original lock/unlock button on the door still work,
as quite often they don't afterwards.

[blobbi]

Original lock works great.