Toyspeed

exactly the same

you dont need to take the struts out to take the drive shafts out if thats what your saying Adamal, but im not sure that is what your saying

just undo ball joints and tie rod ends then pull axles out, no prob.

yes, the engine can be removed with the transaxle attached.

when i was doing a mates manual conversion the only headache there was with the auto loom was the inhibitor switch, just removed it out of the circut, we had no futher problems after that

J.E.S.U.S
starved of oil indeed.

Why don't you source a 4AGE 16 or 20 valve and ecu for it?

I'd imagine ronio73's found a bargain 4a-lu, which would be a cheap replacement and a bit of a power upgrade at the same time, do it ronio73 it'll be mean

righto, replace ALL the seals and try it, if it still leaks get a 2nd hand dizzy and swap the shaft (your shafts probably gouged) you can try machining the shaft down a bit but thats not really a perminant fix.
As for a replacement, keep an eye on trademe and here on toyspeed for anyone selling ...

I was working on this today for my mr2 (moving batt. to the front)
Havnt got a breaker yet, but i wanted to test if a 140A breaker would be ok before I bought one. So I got my fuse holder which I usually use for my stereo amp, slapped in the biggest fuse I had lying around (60A) and used it to fuse ...

got my AE101 regassed. It needed some new bits to convert it to the new gas. All up it cost about $250

bloody hell, sounds like I almost got ripped off!

I was quoted $shit-loads for the conversion when I checked this out. I think it was mid $400's to fix a couple of little switch related problems, convert and re-gas. I also heard on some forum (so dont hold me to this ) that the converted system will be less reliable/have smaller life-span than an ...

hahahhaa I thought my battery was shorting inside itself or somthing wat a relief

come again? ceased?

hey my mr2 had that, it was a vacuum leak, took it in for a tune and the they fixed it at the same time, you can drive it safely but get it fixed as a priority (if it does that straight from start up as mine did- bad for engine wear)

FAST AND RELIABLE IS NOT CHEAP
FAST AND CHEAP IS NOT RELIABLE
CHEAP AND RELIABLE IS NOT FAST

that is SO true! - cept many aw's are -cheap, fast, unreliable, complete biatch to work on- (the last 2 are a bad combination:P:P wicket cars though:twisted;

my 89' NA is only doing like <400ish k ...