Toyspeed

http://defy.net.nz/lofreq/pics/Car%20Stuff/Personal/061111%20-%20rims%20on/061111%20-%20rims%20on%2006.JPG

http://defy.net.nz/lofreq/pics/Car%20Stuff/Personal/061111%20-%20rims%20on/061111%20-%20rims%20on%2002.JPG


Massive pics linked - Mod.

i thought mine was one of the higher spec models being the grande edition, but its still manual seats, and not leather, but this plush velvet looking stuff, buttons and all...

click for much more big
http://www.defy.net.nz/lofreq/pics/Car%20Stuff/Personal/050412%20-%20the%20new ...

so i guess ive got problems then!

hi all

im looking for some heavy dampening/stiff shocks (inserts) for ae86, to fit in my gx71 - just wanting some brand names/models that you can steer me towards, or steer me away from, from your experience.

need to be as stiff as possible since the mark2 is much heavier than the 86 - ive ...

thanks guys!

yes it was the damned fuel dampener - had an extra washer mistakenly on there, that was totally blocking the gap for the fuel to flow! after all that it was nothing electronic at all. once i cleared that bolt and fuel flow, she ran no problems.

other than the high idle - now i ...

its alive. idles at like 2500rpm, no intercooler, no exhaust, no radiator overflow... no tacho, and god knows if the oil pres and temp is working. but it is alive! gonna head out to PitStop to get an exhaust put on and maybe fix the intercooler (cant even close the bonnet because intake piping is ...

$&#$%! after closely examining the dampener and the weird copper washer i decided to try to pull the washer out of there and see if there was anything jammed behind it that might block the fuel flow. the washer looked mangled and almost cut in two rings, like there was a smaller ring in there. after ...

heres the pics of the dampener... and the rail.
http://www.boost.org.nz/Nigels/051227%20-%20fuel%20dampener.JPG
http://www.boost.org.nz/Nigels/051227%20-%20fuel%20rail%20inlet.JPG


ok just found out with Looonie how the dampener works, as per here ...

ok heres the result. since no fuel was coming out the fuel rail at the exit side, i then unbolted the "dampener" so the banjo was free in the breeze. primed the fuel line for a second, and got a shitload of fuel out of there, healthy as.

this means - the fuel pump is fine, the lines are fine no ...

crap. heres a revelation - if i have the fuel pump running when car is set to ON position (motor is off, waiting to crank) and i unplug the fuel return line... shouldnt the return line pressurise, and start pissing fuel out? (well, if it was connected to the fuel return, it would send the fuel back ...

will check what you said tomorrow, will swap battery and charge the dead one. will also try the 'ticking injector' touch test, but i hope its apparent what i am supposed to be feeling for.

when i say "i can keep the motor running": if i do not touch anything, the motor revs up then dies smoothly ...

thanks for the tip. i hooked up a test light to the fuel pump so i could see exactly what it was doing at all times. pump comes on when key is set to ON, and remains on during cranking etc. so fuel pump going all the time.

also had the coil sorta laying in the engine bay - not bolted down. i ...

i have to hold the flap to keep the ENGINE running - not the fuel pump. fuel pump stops when the flap closes, as its supposed to

heres what i have done so far:

1) bypassed intercooler with a pipe running from turbo outlets direct to the inlet pipe to the throttle body. AFM in factory location ...

makes sense - the setup right now does not use the fuel pump relay because the wiring for the fuel pump etc is now running off my cressida's system which doesnt have any pump resistor. right now, when the AFM is opened by any amount, the fuel pump comes on and stays on as long as the flap is opened ...

man. the resistor was next to a relay that we assumed was the fuel pump relay, in the soarer. we unscrewed the resistor... and took that to be the injector resistor. crap! maybe it is the fuel pump resistor and the motor doesnt need a ballast resistor!

if so then even more baffling is, what then ...

thats really valuable info about the injectors and resistance. i will measure the injectors tomorrow and report on their rating. the reason we are trying to wire in the resistor is because it came with the soarer that the 3rd gen 1ggte came out of. so we thought, just put everythign back to how it ...

hi all - im back in auckland now. had car trailered back to auckland with my mates in NP's help. problem stil remains so i am still hunting for solutions. i rotated the dizzy, this didnt change anything. just wouldnt fire at all. possible culprits are air leaks since my intercooler plumbing is ...

believe it has been sitting for about 4mo at the most, since last ran. it has been out of the car maybe half that time sitting in the garage.

the whole motor was kept together, head, inlet mani, turbos and exhaust,vac lines, sump - everything as is. AFM may have been knocked about but not ...

the 1ggte was in a soarer that WAS auto. then the soarer went manual, then the motor came out of the soarer into my mark II which was manual also. perhaps then those codes are only for the auto gearbox which is no longer plugged in (i have 2/3 plugs hanging loose from engine loom to where they used ...

we checked ECU initially and got codes 62, 63 and 64 - but these codes dont even exist on the error code lists for the 1ggte i could find - they only go up to 40 or 50 somethign???

vacuum leak was mentioned by a few people already - been over the plenum and all hoses attached carefully - i dont ...