Toyspeed

Haha yeap, bet that has screwed some people before

Broke the pulley bolt?

Fark me I was sure my one was gonna shear eh, with that holder tool bracing and 3/4" bar plus massive 6-foot galv pole extension I was damn relieved when it didnt

Dredging this thread to save someone some future heartache in doing battle with a stubborn *JZ crankbolt...

Ended up buying a tool when importing some other stuff from the US so hit me up if you wanna use, cheers

Thanks for all the replies, was convinced this would be one of those ghost threads, but great to see so many peeps chiming in...

For the record I did this in my dads (who is a mechanic) workshop. The compressor setup is a bit old but still produces enough line pressure to smash every other crank ...

Polygrips wont work for how tight this one is and not that keen given rubber mounted centre, car back together now anyway so rather just get hold of (or make) the right tool.

Stopping the crank turning is what that tool does, you counter rotate against it. Today I used a 1000ft lb air wrench (though on inadequate compressor) to no avail... Thought about making a tool but the bolt holes in the pulley are only 8mm(?) so really need something that seats down in the pulley ...

Hey dudes
Anybody have one of these tools I could use/rent? Spent this morning ripping down the front end of the engine bay for cambelt change only to be thwarted by the crank pulley bolt, even with high torque rattle gun. Google tells me one of the crank pulley bracing tools should do the trick ...

modded the wall socket to accept the larger earth lug, havent made anything go pop yet and have welded 12mm mild sttel plate HOT...

I bought one of these:

m

I have been nothing but happy with it, welds ali and steel with ease and for home (or even light workshop use) I reckon it'd go forever. If you buy through a shop thats been around for a while (like goods direct) you will also get good parts support if something does ...

Anybody know where to get injectors cleaned and flow tested for a good price in Auckland (south side of the bridge preferably)? Last time I did this I paid too much so looking for someone that doesnt charge the earth (and does a good job...)

R.I.P. chevy

Hot 4A in an EP70 would be heaps of fun, before I did the 5efte conversion I had an NA 5EFE in there and the thing got along really well, so 4A would make it fly. I think Ive seen some vids of one or two on youtube actually... if Stus shoehorned in a pretty tricky turbed one no doubt the NA version ...

Leon wrote:Ok, found it. The stupid fee NZTA takes is ~ $30.

Hmmm, not much at all then. I guess it probably costs a bit to become a certifier... but errrr, someone is making money

Dunno, but the new AFR tests add an extra $50 on top (at least at the certifier I went to). I would suspect that it least half of the total cost is government admin bullshit passed on by the certifier... I guess even if you didnt have to get a fresh cert everytime you wanted to add something youd ...

Yeah that part of it is crap indeed. Also, I think it results in more heavily modified cars on the road, since, at least with my cars, I end up modifying everything under the sun with the false economy that I am somehow saving money in doing so The fresh mods fresh cert rule is one that I think you ...

quite being pawns to the rules.

you really think jo blog wofs stations going give a rats buttocks if you swap one sh*t single cam carb engine for another single cam carb engine.

just go buy logic, if its safe, if you increase the power increase the brakes.

people need to stop paying 400 dollars ...

Any increase in capacity... so really even replacing 4k with a 5k needs to be certed, so 4A/2T = definitely

OK, shoulda said its a 4wd 'G'... Still though, if can confirm the valving's different then should be able to tell dealer to get his shit together... Have instructed mate to ring toyota and see if part numbers differ...

OK bit of an update, dealer has admitted that the shocks were almost certainly fukced when he got the car and has agreed to fix it - hooray! Or not... cause now dealer says the shocks that they will replace them with are second hand items from a Caldina G. Although second hand shocks are better than ...

Sweet, will message Mr revhead. I think I read somewhere that the teins ride a bit higher than the kings which would actually be a good thing since car will be seeing mountain roads in the winter... Any comments on what kybs go like in these wagons? anybody know what the oem shocks are worth? I see ...