Toyspeed

The pump should have numbers on, make sure they match a replacement. Recon pump would be your best bet. If it's stripped and found that shafts/housing etc are worn then the price could balloon and leave you with a car off the road until you find the right pump.

How bad is it leaking? If it's just a ...

If there wasn't a puncture then this wouldn't really even be news.

If it just needs a quick hone then it should be a 5-10 minute job while you wait. It's pretty much just a stone in a drill run up and down the bore a few times.

Popped the ECU or one/more of the fuses for it if the heater wire has melted and touched something. The sensor itself dying shouldn't cause any real issues, shorted wires are another story though.

Mr Revhead wrote:You're from southland, just feed a cow coffee grinds and suck it right from the tit!

Or a goat if you're a connoisseur

It's does come with an anti-swearing syringe though which is a nice touch.

Have a hunt around for alternatives. A lot of people in the US used GM S/C oil (12345982) as it's a fraction of the price. One place said that GM put a service bulletin out that Mobil 1 engine oil was alright to use, but that may be a stretch. One guy in Christchurch said Castol actually recommend ...

They drop out, but not on a subframe as such.

YUCK. I hate this idea.

If you have very little money perhaps the best thing you can do is not to screw around with cars.

Why would you bother with this sort of thing?

It's not just Sergei saying that, he is just being a bit more blunt about it

The Silvertop is fairly well tuned to get ...

Silvertop uses the AFM rather than a MAP sensor. The AFM is the main source of information for the ECU as to how much fuel to use, the TPS accounts for some of that information but you wouldn't want to rely on it completely. Slight variations in fueling will have a big influence on power ...

Calendar and club event details are usually on www.oscc.co.nz or www.facebook.com/MotorsportOtago

Lower Hutt front yards?

It would be awesome to randomly stumble across stuff like this in the middle of nowhere. More so to leave the odd fake skeleton in the drivers seat of a couple pointing at where people would likely stumble across them.

Also, imgur.com/r/abandonedporn

-4 is the same as 1/4"?

Just go for lines that flow more than your fittings as they're going to be the restriction anyway.

Switch on the speed sensor wire to the ECU. It'll run for a minute-ish with no speed signal before going in to limp mode and needing you to turn the car off and back on again.

It's pretty much the same, just the driveshafts are more annoying.

No particular order...

Drain gearbox (if you're changing the oil, some will come out with axles anyway), remove wheels, CV nuts/ball joint bolts, pull halfshafts out (inners can be a bit of a bitch to get out but just pull harder ...

GTZ ones used to be a b*tch to find the right ones for. I'd be very surprised if they have an off-the-shelf complete axle to suit. Rebuilds weren't too expensive though.

Optrix make a waterproof case for iPhone 4/5 with a variety of mounts and a 175 degree lens built in to the case. May be another option to look at. http://www.optrix.net.nz/xd5.html

In theory. For the money, give it a go.

Though I think your own advice to "harden the $&#$% up" may apply here too