2T-GEU engine specs

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2T-GEU engine specs

Postby fuel » Mon Sep 19, 2005 10:39 am

I've just bought a 2T-GEU engine and T50 gearbox to go into my TE71 Corolla.

The engine is in bits though, so will need re-assembly. I plan on fitting new bearings, rings, seals etc, so I require the specifications for this engine, such as crank shaft journal size, piston ring gaps etc. I've done a quick search on google and on here but found nothing relevant.

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Postby fuel » Mon Sep 19, 2005 8:55 pm

Anyone?
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Postby Logan » Mon Sep 19, 2005 9:25 pm

ive got a factory toyota rebuild manual, what excatly do you want to know?
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Postby fangsport » Mon Sep 19, 2005 9:31 pm

Logan wrote:ive got a factory toyota rebuild manual, what excatly do you want to know?


me too. but not on me at the moment.
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Postby fuel » Tue Sep 20, 2005 12:32 pm

I want to know the size of the crankshaft journals, the size of the ring gap, and just any other general rebuilding specs. I've got the 2T-GEU in bits, all seems to look ok, but just want to make sure before I go order new bearing shells, gaskets and oil seals etc.
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Postby Logan » Tue Sep 20, 2005 1:38 pm

you should be able to go shop and ask for 2tg bearings and they can look it up in catalogue, but i suggest doing a quick google seach and downlaod the ACL bearing catalogues, so you can just list part numbers to your suppliers.

I just rebuilt my 3tgte and the rings are the same as some mitsi...cant remeber...

I'll get the actualy nubmers for you tongiht ojk..

Sweet
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Postby fangsport » Tue Sep 20, 2005 5:21 pm

Crank journal: 58mm 0.5 mm max. undersize
Big end " " : 48mm 0.5 " " " " "

Piston ring gap: 0.02-0.06mm
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Postby fuel » Tue Sep 20, 2005 8:00 pm

fangsport wrote:Crank journal: 58mm 0.5 mm max. undersize
Big end " " : 48mm 0.5 " " " " "

Piston ring gap: 0.02-0.06mm


Thanks mate that's exactly what I wanted to know. 8)
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Postby fuel » Tue Sep 20, 2005 8:02 pm

Logan wrote:you should be able to go shop and ask for 2tg bearings and they can look it up in catalogue, but i suggest doing a quick google seach and downlaod the ACL bearing catalogues, so you can just list part numbers to your suppliers.

I just rebuilt my 3tgte and the rings are the same as some mitsi...cant remeber...

I'll get the actualy nubmers for you tongiht ojk..

Sweet


Sweet. Yeah I can easily order the ACL parts, but I'm wanting to know the actual sizes and limits, so I know if I need to get the crank grinded, and undersized bearings fitted.
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Postby Logan » Tue Sep 20, 2005 8:04 pm

also,
connecting rod thrust clearance 0.16-0.26mm standard 0.3mm max
crank thrust clearance 0.02-0.22mm standard 0.3mm max
bore diam 85.00-85.05
piston diamter 84.94-84.99
ringend gaps,
n01 0.25-0.56
no2 0.20 -0.51
oil 0.30-0.78

ring groove clearance
n01 0.20-0.60
no2 0.015 -0.055
oil 0.015-0.060

enuf numbers for now
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Postby fuel » Tue Sep 20, 2005 11:00 pm

Logan wrote:also,
connecting rod thrust clearance 0.16-0.26mm standard 0.3mm max
crank thrust clearance 0.02-0.22mm standard 0.3mm max
bore diam 85.00-85.05
piston diamter 84.94-84.99
ringend gaps,
n01 0.25-0.56
no2 0.20 -0.51
oil 0.30-0.78

ring groove clearance
n01 0.20-0.60
no2 0.015 -0.055
oil 0.015-0.060

enuf numbers for now


Thanks buddy even more of what I wanted to know :D :twisted:

I think that's pretty much it. The engine seems to be in good condition, I can't see any scoring on the bores, crosshatch pattern is still there, no lip on the top of the bore etc. Has been sitting in the moisture though, so has a few small bits of surface rust but easily rubbed off with some CRC. Piston rings look nice and shiney, and the pistons themselves are not discoloured or have any marks on them. Only problem is the guy who I bought the engine off didn't number each piston, so not sure which one belongs to each bore.

No marks on the big end journals, but again just the small rust marks. I've got some journal sanding/polishing tape which well get it off though. I'll measure them and see if they are within the specs.
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Postby Logan » Wed Sep 21, 2005 9:35 am

if the rods are still connected to the pistons, they should be numbered, from factory if you need anything else let me know. make sure you find the arrows on the piston to point fowards also.
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Postby fuel » Wed Sep 21, 2005 10:59 am

Logan wrote:if the rods are still connected to the pistons, they should be numbered, from factory if you need anything else let me know. make sure you find the arrows on the piston to point fowards also.


Ahh.. yep the rods and bearing caps are still attached to their respective pistons. I didn't think to check them for numbers. Arrow points towards front of engine right? As in towards cam chain side.

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Postby Logan » Wed Sep 21, 2005 2:56 pm

correct
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Postby fuel » Sat Sep 24, 2005 7:13 pm

Just bringing this back up, does anyone know the redline for this motor, and the rev limiter too?
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Postby sleeektoy » Sun Sep 25, 2005 10:30 am

I know the redline is @ 7000 for the early 2T-G's, yellow kicking in at 6500.
I dont know the limits for the later EFI engines but i assume they're the same.
I regularly have mine up to 7500rpm on the racetrack, just gotta watch the cam chain tension as the chain tends to hit the cam cover if not correct at those rpm's. Changing the chain regularly alleviates this problem. :lol:
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Postby fuel » Sun Sep 25, 2005 6:47 pm

sleeektoy wrote:I know the redline is @ 7000 for the early 2T-G's, yellow kicking in at 6500.
I dont know the limits for the later EFI engines but i assume they're the same.
I regularly have mine up to 7500rpm on the racetrack, just gotta watch the cam chain tension as the chain tends to hit the cam cover if not correct at those rpm's. Changing the chain regularly alleviates this problem. :lol:


Cool. How are they at high rpm? Being only 8 valves, one would expect the flow is not as good as a 16 valve engine at high rpm.
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Postby RS13 » Sun Sep 25, 2005 9:14 pm

I had a 2TGEU TE71, with a few mods, ported, big cams, big compression.. revved off the factory tach, the guy I brought it off regularly took it to 9000rpm.. hence why it had a run bearing when I got it. So, I'd say with decent mods, and better oiling than mine had, you'd see 9000rpm.. but I wouldn't think it'd last long! :D

Edit: And, although I regularly took it over 7000rpm, the new owner has had it for almost 3 years, it blows no smoke, and starts prefectly, even when cold. It loved to rev, but I'd say the cams helped a lot.
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Postby fuel » Tue Sep 27, 2005 11:36 pm

Logan wrote:if the rods are still connected to the pistons, they should be numbered, from factory if you need anything else let me know. make sure you find the arrows on the piston to point fowards also.


I've just finished cleaning the pistons, and the only numbers I could find on the rods were 188 M, which 3 had, and the other one had 188 U. Two of the rods had '2' on the bearing caps and '4' on the piston, and the other 2 had '3' on the cap and '3' and '1' on the piston.

So I can't identify which piston is which.. great. I guess this means I will need to rehone the cylinder bores and fit new rings?
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Postby fangsport » Tue Sep 27, 2005 11:52 pm

fuel wrote:
Logan wrote:if the rods are still connected to the pistons, they should be numbered, from factory if you need anything else let me know. make sure you find the arrows on the piston to point fowards also.


I've just finished cleaning the pistons, and the only numbers I could find on the rods were 188 M, which 3 had, and the other one had 188 U. Two of the rods had '2' on the bearing caps and '4' on the piston, and the other 2 had '3' on the cap and '3' and '1' on the piston.

So I can't identify which piston is which.. great. I guess this means I will need to rehone the cylinder bores and fit new rings?


get the whole lot measured, in case some-one has needed to O/S a couple of bores or hournals . with caps that aren't numbered some-one has been in there before..........who knows what they have done !!
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