Where do you get shot peening done?

The place for all technical car discussions. If you haven't already, read our Disclaimer first!

Moderator: The Mod Squad

Postby method » Mon Sep 03, 2007 12:23 pm

d1 mule wrote:as far as im aware shot peening dont make the rod any stronger it de-Stresses it thus giving you pretty much a new rod. which makes sense to me but i fail to see how heating something up and hitting it with hammer makes it stronger.

however i may be completely wrong


Shot peening puts the surface into stress, it doesnt relax it of stress!

The reason for shot peening is as DeeCee said, to prevent fatigue faliure.
You should get them polished too, this will minimize any fine cracks or inconstancies where cracks can form.

And bashing metal with a hammer makes it stronger, when metals yield they become stronger.
Heating it up will relieve the metal of the stresses caused by yielding it though...
PICS UPDATED DAILY
Evo IV - 13.0 @ 167.8 kph Full street trim - SOLD
Boosted 4age Ke30 - Im back and better than ever!
User avatar
method
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1466
Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 5:58 pm
Location: West Auckland

Postby Caveman » Mon Sep 03, 2007 12:53 pm

strx7 wrote:
bluemaumau wrote:yea i know that but he doesnt think theyre any good!

do you know what sort of % stronger it makes the rod?


30-40% according to my local auto machinist

haha your machinist must be on drugs

shot peening DOES NOT increase the strength of a rod! There may be the slightest increase due to the residual stress generated but they will be neglible. Put two samples in a uniaxial tensile test, one shot peened and the other plain cast. They will fail exactly the same.

shot peening does not change any of the material properties. Method was half right when he said the material is still stressed. It relieves any residule tensile stress but instead introduces residual compressive stresses in the surface.

The main roll of shot peening is resisting crack growth. This increases the life of the rod under cyclic loading.

Anyone feel free to correct me if ive said anything wrong.
AW11 Track Toy
Formerly known as 1998
User avatar
Caveman
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1918
Joined: Sun Sep 12, 2004 11:20 am
Location: West Auckland

Postby no_8wire » Mon Sep 03, 2007 1:20 pm

thats how I understood it...
doesnt make it any "stronger" just cause lots of little stress points, so any stress is distributed more rather than focus on one weak point etc..

I have explained my self crap...never mind :lol:
User avatar
no_8wire
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 2268
Joined: Thu Dec 30, 2004 7:30 pm

Postby bluemaumau » Mon Sep 03, 2007 1:53 pm

ah i see. he didnt recommend that, he just said i should look at bigger rods

cheers dylan
4AGTE AE101 COROLLA - 90%

Where the $&#$% is that oil leak coming from /club

looking for enkei RP01 center caps (white)
User avatar
bluemaumau
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 4087
Joined: Sun Oct 16, 2005 7:08 pm
Location: SYDNEY, NSW

Postby strx7 » Mon Sep 03, 2007 8:57 pm

when he said 30-40% i think he's talking in terms of abuse/punishment, we are talking stressed race motors not mildly tampered with street motors. for sure nothing can outright strengthen something by that %

if comparing what power people have made on std rods, then compare it to what people have made with peened rods its definatley worth doing in terms of gains per $$ spent.
Online Car Forums - Where Hui seems to take preference over Do-ey

HDJ81- 112AWKW @ 10psi), FC3S (Tarmac Spec 335rwhp@11psi), 3SGTE stroker - replacement body found.

Motorsport Bay of Plenty - http://www.mbop.org.nz
strx7
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 3707
Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 12:06 am
Location: Tauranga

Postby KinLoud » Thu Sep 06, 2007 10:55 pm

strx7 wrote:can anyone give me some info as to typical weight difference between a factory rod and a forged one. any engine, just as a comparision.


All conrods that I know of are forged! Cast ones wouldn't be able to handle the revs!
I presume what you are talking about is factory vs aftermarket rods?

Weights of aftermarket vs factory rods
4age silvertop rods with rodbolts/nuts
- approx 510g

4age aftermarket rods no bolts/nuts - 357g (refer to tech faq viewtopic.php?t=58213)
4age ARP bolts/nuts - 31g each = 62g per rod
Total rod + bolts/nuts - 419g

Can't find the reference at the moment but from memory the main reason for shot peening rods is to regain the fatigue resistance after the rods have been balanced and polished. Balancing and polishing removes some of the tough outer "skin" that results from forging. This "tough outer skin" resists fatigue cracking.

Top fuel dragsters use aluminium rods! Some will only withstand 100,000 cycles before cracking! (about 14 minutes at 7000rpm!) But they are lighter than steel rods so the engine will accelerate better. They basically rebuild the engines after each run so the poor fatigue life of the rod doesn't matter!

Ken
Ham
021 408 863
I used to think that the orange and green tictacs gave you special powers. The orange ones would make you stronger and the green ones would make you faster. So i used to eat some green ones and run around my lounge as fast as i could, then eat the orange ones and try to pick up the sofa. I wish it were true!
User avatar
KinLoud
** Moderator **
 
Posts: 2893
Joined: Thu May 16, 2002 7:39 pm
Location: Auckland

Previous

Return to Tech Questions

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests