Setting baseline idle - 5E-FHE

[markoneswift]

Hi all. For a while now I've had problems with a really high idle on my Cynos so today I took the drastic measure of removing the throttle body. I found the waterway completely blocked in the IAC and up into the TB so I cleaned all the gunk out with carby cleaner. The spring mechanism in the IAC was also seized, so I took the end cover off and sprayed it with cleaner inside and worked the spring manually from the end with a screwdriver - it's as smooth as silk now and tested operation by boiling / chilling the thermostat end.

What I need to do now is get the baseline idle set. I read somewhere about jumpering the diagnostic port to take it out of closed loop to set the baseline - is this necessary ? If it is, I know how to jumper because I checked for codes the other day ( none found ). Also, which screw should I adjust in which order - there's a set screw in the TB and also a air bleed type screw on the firewall attached to hoses.

Thanks

[markoneswift]

oh also, are gasket kits readily available for the TB on a 5E-FHE ??

[Stu-]

You don't need to use diagnostic mode to set the idle speed but it is used when setting the base timing which in itself has an effect on idle speed. So bridge TE1 and E1 on the diagnostic connector and set the base timing to 10 degrees with a timing light. Remove the diagnostic bridge then with the engine warm, adjust the idle screw on the throttle body so the idle is around 950-980rpm.

Oh and you can either use gasket paper or gasket go for the throttle body to inlet.

[markoneswift]

Awesome, thanks Stu. I think the timing will be OK since I've never messed with the dizzy or anything. I actually split the IAC off the TB so I'm trying to find a gasket set that will include the sealing O ring and the IAC to TB gasket - hopefully Waikato Toyota round the corner will be able to help.

[Stu-]

Ive just used goo in the past and its been fine if applied correctly