02 sensor?

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02 sensor?

Postby fx gt » Mon Feb 27, 2006 7:35 pm

im upgrading the headers on my 4age 16v to the 20v ones.do i need to add the o2 sensor into the 20v ones?

what will happen if i leave it dangling or unpluged?
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Postby Jebus » Mon Feb 27, 2006 7:48 pm

Depends, the 20V will probaly use the same frequencys but a different plug, so you could use that one if ya join it up. Assuming you get it with them. If you leave it unplugged, it will be like a Hilton girl, filthy rich and not pretty. However it wont affect peak power, see what you get with the 20V extractors, and either use the existing one if you can or fit your 16V one. Just dont go without one.

Anyone know if the 20V uses a screw type or wether it bolts on?
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Postby Crucible » Mon Feb 27, 2006 8:37 pm

Jebus wrote:Anyone know if the 20V uses a screw type or wether it bolts on?


I believe they are fastened with 2 bolts, Like jebus says dont run without it, the e.c.u cant judge wheather its running lean or rich, its there for a reason....

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Postby fx gt » Mon Feb 27, 2006 9:09 pm

True-No-Turbo wrote:
Jebus wrote:Anyone know if the 20V uses a screw type or wether it bolts on?


I believe they are fastened with 2 bolts, Like jebus says dont run without it, the e.c.u cant judge wheather its running lean or rich, its there for a reason....

TNT


chion chin for that
will have to add it in :)
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Postby sergei » Mon Feb 27, 2006 10:03 pm

Most of OEM oxygen sensors are of same type. The 20V would be better option to use because of internal heater, meaning it takes only couple of minutes to warm up. You will have to connect heater wires (2 black) to 12V supply switched on when ignition is on.
To determine which wire to use for signal output either find wiring diagram with pin outs on plug or use butane torch and heat it up (butane is essential because of it's hydrocarbon nature) while it is connected to a multimeter in 2V range, use + side as your signal wire to ECU and connect - to ground (if multimeter shows positive values, multimeter positive would be your oxygene sensor positive and viceversa). BTW the good oxygene sensor should get to atleast 0.95V within a minute and stay there as long as flame touches it. This is a good test to show if oxygene sensor is in good nick. Also it is possible to restore a clogged up oxygene sensor if it stopped working in the car due to overfueling/oil consumption, but it does not work all the time, if you oxygene sensor is covered in thick black stuff you might be lucky, as when you aply hot flame to it it will burn it off.
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Postby no_8wire » Mon Feb 27, 2006 10:11 pm

just use the 20v 2-1 section as well...it has the 02 sensor in that part...
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Postby Caveman » Mon Feb 27, 2006 10:56 pm

sergei wrote:Most of OEM oxygen sensors are of same type. The 20V would be better option to use because of internal heater, meaning it takes only couple of minutes to warm up. You will have to connect heater wires (2 black) to 12V supply switched on when ignition is on.
To determine which wire to use for signal output either find wiring diagram with pin outs on plug or use butane torch and heat it up (butane is essential because of it's hydrocarbon nature) while it is connected to a multimeter in 2V range, use + side as your signal wire to ECU and connect - to ground (if multimeter shows positive values, multimeter positive would be your oxygene sensor positive and viceversa). BTW the good oxygene sensor should get to atleast 0.95V within a minute and stay there as long as flame touches it. This is a good test to show if oxygene sensor is in good nick. Also it is possible to restore a clogged up oxygene sensor if it stopped working in the car due to overfueling/oil consumption, but it does not work all the time, if you oxygene sensor is covered in thick black stuff you might be lucky, as when you aply hot flame to it it will burn it off.

Ahhh always wondered why the 4agze one had 4 wires but 2 wires on the wiring diagram 8)

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Postby dxtawagon » Wed Mar 01, 2006 10:53 am

not an answer to this question but.... why do nz new gt's not have an O2 sensor?

my redtop bigport 4age doesnt have one?, would it benefit from placing a exhaust manifold with an O2 sensor?

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Postby RickGT » Wed Mar 01, 2006 2:39 pm

im doing the same thing, do the 20v sensors have the ground thru a wire or not, i noe that the 2 black wires are the heater but there are 2 grey wires left, so i connect 1 of those to the orignal sensor wire and the other 1 to ground?
what do i do, also do polarities matter when u hook up the 12v for the heater?
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Postby sergei » Wed Mar 01, 2006 5:02 pm

polarities matter! you could damage your sensor if you wire it wrong.
it works as voltage supply in right conditions. read above what I posted on how to find polarity.

As for NZ New stuff, a while ago NZ only had leaded gas so that is why NZ New cars don't come with oxygen sensors or catalityc converters (lead damages/fouls these things).
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Postby RickGT » Wed Mar 01, 2006 5:55 pm

yea i mean the polarities for the heater bit
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Postby slighty_sykotic » Thu Mar 02, 2006 11:20 am

For the heater I would say not...

It will just be a resistance load that makes heat I guess...


Once someone gets the other sensors wires sorted, can someone take a pic of it with labels? I need to wire in my o2 sensor (from 20v) into the 16v sc loom.

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Postby Caveman » Thu Mar 02, 2006 11:32 am

So 20V o2 sensor works with a supercharger ECU?
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Postby sergei » Thu Mar 02, 2006 11:39 am

All common Toyota narrow band O2 sensors are of same type. It does not matter if it is heated or not, electrically they are all the same. Only different are the ones wich go after cat converter, but they only appear in export/luxury cars, and I think they are wideband sensors.
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Postby Caveman » Thu Mar 02, 2006 11:49 am

sergei wrote:All common Toyota narrow band O2 sensors are of same type. It does not matter if it is heated or not, electrically they are all the same. Only different are the ones wich go after cat converter, but they only appear in export/luxury cars, and I think they are wideband sensors.

Please read http://forums.toyspeed.org.nz/viewtopic.php?t=41229

I wanted to use a non heater O2 sensor on my supercharger ECU but apparently it won't work.
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Postby slighty_sykotic » Thu Mar 02, 2006 1:49 pm

Thats because the S/C ecu has a input to check if the heater is working. The HT line.

If it doesn't see that, it will ignore the output of the o2 sensor.
And throw a code.
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Postby sergei » Thu Mar 02, 2006 2:16 pm

which can be easily tricked by placing a 25W/ 10-25Ohm resistor instead of the O2 heater (or fuel pump resistor off GT4 will do).
Which can be bought from here:
http://www.rsnewzealand.com/cgi-bin/bv/browse/Module.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@1060665335.1141262485@@@@&BV_EngineID=cccfaddheegllllcefeceefdffhdgmk.0&cacheID=nznetscape&3318715345=3318715345&catoid=-82199716
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Postby XS1V » Thu Mar 02, 2006 3:11 pm

Back with topic 8) use the 20v 2-1, remove the 20v O2 sensor and place the 16v sensor in its place (straight bolt up) then wire to its new location, then just get an exhaust shop to fill in the small gap between exaust and the 2-1. The 16v's 2-1 will not bolt up to the 20v headers anyways :)
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Postby RickGT » Thu Mar 02, 2006 11:11 pm

so in the 20v sensor 1 of the grey cables for the sender should be grounded am i rite?
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Postby matt dunn » Thu Mar 02, 2006 11:39 pm

RickGT wrote:so in the 20v sensor 1 of the grey cables for the sender should be grounded am i rite?


If the coulors are,

Grey
Black
white
white,

then they are as follows.

Grey is signal earth
Black is signal ( ECU OX terminal
White is heater power
white is heater earth ( ECU HT terminal)
7AGTE - DX20VT - viewtopic.php?t=59733
Discussion - viewtopic.php?t=59751
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