Blacktops when cold

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Postby Mr Revhead » Thu Feb 22, 2007 11:42 am

have you tried getting rid of it?
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Postby Voyeur » Thu Feb 22, 2007 11:50 am

I gather you are talking about the restrictor, i will explain. I have left the pcv valve in place, as per first post, but placed a restrictor in the line after the pcv to restrict the amount of air (vapour oil etc ) being sucked into the manifold, affecting the MAP sensor, the problem is I dont know what a fresh engine with no leaks produces in the way of blowby, that's why i am experimenting. If thats not what you meant ignore me!!
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Postby Mr Revhead » Thu Feb 22, 2007 11:55 am

*ignore*
:P

no i meant do away with the pcv, block it off completely
i did that to my silvertop, via oil catch can, and it was miles better
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Postby Voyeur » Thu Feb 22, 2007 11:59 am

I did think of that, but what would the effect on vvt be if you were to block the pcv line into the manifold, it would have the effect of increasing the vacuum, causing vvt to engage earlier & cut out earlier?? On the flip side this may compensate for leaking gaskets, or throttle body's??
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Postby Mr Revhead » Thu Feb 22, 2007 12:00 pm

i dont think so

try it and see. it stops all oil vapours getting in to the intake
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Postby Voyeur » Thu Feb 22, 2007 12:30 pm

OK tried that, vvt now cut's in at 1500 cuts out at 7200, still got the initial flat or jerking problem. I will now go back to basics and dial the cams in tonight, just thought that whoever did the cam belt could have got phasing slightly out. But i dont like my chances
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Postby johntramp » Thu Feb 22, 2007 2:31 pm

when I had no speed signal to my ecu the vvt did not work. when I made a 555 circuit to make the ecu think it was going 50k/hr the vvt would work and it made a huge power difference.
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Postby matt dunn » Thu Feb 22, 2007 11:18 pm

Voyeur wrote: I know that the TPS, and speed sensor have nothing to do with vvt, as when you disconnect them vvt still works. .


Really? What year is your car. The BT I worked on definatly had no VVT operation without the tps plugged in.


Voyeur wrote: The blowby is a good theory as this would alter the manifold pressure. To see if this was true I fitted a restricter in my pcv line last night, and while this helped with low throttle cruising (100 km at 3000rpm ) it made no difference to mid throttle acceleration. Does this give anybody any ideas.


You also need to remove the one from the end of the head that goes into the intake pipe between the throttle bodies and the air cleaner, as there will be a bit of oil vapours from there too.
Unless you stop all the vapours you probably wont be able to prove it either way.

Matt
7AGTE - DX20VT - viewtopic.php?t=59733
Discussion - viewtopic.php?t=59751
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Postby Voyeur » Fri Feb 23, 2007 8:01 am

Hey all, found it!!
After spending most of the night dialing in cams and testing sensors i decided to remount the vacuum sensor on the drivers strut (MAP??) some **** had cable tied it to the brake lines when they fitted a strut brace, and it had sat there vibrating for god knows how long, anyway it had rubbed through the insulation on one of the wires, which obviously was enough to put the sensor out. A bit of insulation tape and a bolt, and the car drives perfect. I'm sure i said something about basics.
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Postby slighty_sykotic » Fri Feb 23, 2007 12:30 pm

Um,

Thats not the problem for me, and im sure for most people.

Mine is mounted fine.
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Postby slighty_sykotic » Fri Feb 23, 2007 12:31 pm

And yeah, I agree about the tps...

VVT doesn't work without it.

How did you test you car to confirm that?
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Postby Voyeur » Fri Feb 23, 2007 2:19 pm

Sorry, i will explain jan 97 blacktop 20v levin, imported ex Tokyo 7 month's ago. Factory engine except it has a piggy back ecu (apexi i think)
Anyway with all the gauges connected i can disconnect the TPS, unplug the vacuum line from the manifold, and by applying suction, and releasing i can get my vvt light to come on and go off, all in my driveway. I know that this may not be very scientific, but it works. And no the piggyback is not taking over, as i can still do this when i disconnect it, and yes the engine does run like a pig, but it was to check vvt not anything else.
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Postby Voyeur » Fri Feb 23, 2007 2:28 pm

PS i was not implying your problem was wiring, just simply that everybody is busy replacing sensors and looking for major faults (as i was) but start with the basics first when trying to diagnose.
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Postby slighty_sykotic » Fri Feb 23, 2007 2:29 pm

Voyeur wrote:Sorry, i will explain jan 97 blacktop 20v levin, imported ex Tokyo 7 month's ago. Factory engine except it has a piggy back ecu (apexi i think)
Anyway with all the gauges connected i can disconnect the TPS, unplug the vacuum line from the manifold, and by applying suction, and releasing i can get my vvt light to come on and go off, all in my driveway. I know that this may not be very scientific, but it works. And no the piggyback is not taking over, as i can still do this when i disconnect it, and yes the engine does run like a pig, but it was to check vvt not anything else.


My 97 spec blacktop with factory everything would NOT activate vvt with the tps off.. I know, because I was uding that to test something a while ago.

How easy was it for you to take off the piggy back ecu?... Im not convinced that part of it was still there...
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Postby Voyeur » Fri Feb 23, 2007 2:40 pm

Unscrew and remove glovebox and unplug harness plug from ecu. Why some f***r would put it there i dont know, but it deffinately is a piggy back ecu.
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Postby astrae » Wed May 30, 2007 9:07 pm

In the past month or so I've had the hesitation again.. only slightly but enough to know what it is.

New o2 sensor went in in july last year.

Car has only run on bp ultimate 98 since it went in.

mr revhead, can i send it back for warranty lol.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Thu May 31, 2007 12:36 am

if you can prove the part is faulty :D

and not ruined due to another fault :D
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Postby astrae » Thu May 31, 2007 9:33 am

Mr Revhead wrote:
and not ruined due to another fault :D


Besides fuel what else could cause it? After the last two (orginal + 1st replacement) I've made sure I've stayed on 98, no fuel additives have gone through the car.

Presume these have got a 1 year warranty?
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Postby sergei » Thu May 31, 2007 10:13 am

excessive oil in intake can kill oxygene sensor. Excesive oil in intake is partially due excessive revving. Use thicker oil. Catch cans. No point of having 5w30 in it if it is going to spray it in the intake. I would recommend 10w40 or higher (10w50/60 or even 15w40/50), although the first number is not that important (viscousity on cold ie as SAE10 oil at same temperature will get 10 in front) second number is more important (viscousity on hot if 50 then it will have same viscousity as SAE50 at same temperature).
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Postby Cakky » Thu May 31, 2007 6:49 pm

when I first put my BT in it did it every time when cold

now never really does it, maybe 1/20 times.

dont know what I changed lol it just went away
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