CT20 Qs

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Postby Akane » Sun Jul 17, 2005 2:09 pm

yeah, what vvega said.

People looked at NO GRIP and think "pfft, just another MR2 with a bit of mods", they don't realise the setup is perfectly balanced in both power, reliability (cough), and driveability. And it does cost a pretty penny too. I have done a lot of trial and error and spent both money and effort to get it right. You think I'm naturally born like a stick figure? I saved a lot of lunch money for these!
No "stance", no "hellaflush", none of that bullshit. Nothing but no grip on full boost.
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Postby flygt4 » Sun Jul 17, 2005 2:16 pm

on a side note those profec b spec 2's are a good piece of kit.. coupled with an external wastegate boost control should be pretty damn accurate :D
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Postby diss7 » Sun Jul 17, 2005 2:19 pm

I've been in the same situation when I had my st205 a few years ago.

Firstly, there was only about 10hp difference between my ct20b (which was a steel version) on 17.5psi and 22psi.
I also note that your turbo is at full boost by 4000rpm, well I remember mine used to start boosting about 1900rpm, and would be full boost well before 3000rpm, and again it had the steel internals so yours should boost even earlier.

Now I got to the stage your obviously at, and I wanted more power than the ct20b at at 17.5 psi. I knew the ct20b was pretty much at its peak, so I bought Blitz K3T turbo kit, which was rated about 470hp. I kept the stock fuel system and got link, and all up it cost me close to $4500 to get it all running. First day I drove it I was disappointed. Sure it was making 210kwatw but I had lost all the low down power. I found myself always redlining it just so I could feel some boost. A week later I wanted to see how fast it could go and at redline in 4th gear it leaned out and poped the motor. I shouldv'e got some 720cc injectors.
To take advantage of the turbo I needed head work, so I rev it more, and really some pistons.

IMHO, if you're going to get a bigger turbo, forge the motor and get some cams. At least the way you'll have more than 2500rpm of boost.

I liked my car much better with the ct20b at 17.5 psi.

Then I got an evo3 and found that it was excatly what I was trying to get the celica to act like.
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Postby diss7 » Sun Jul 17, 2005 2:24 pm

Oh and I see you'rs is a WRC too, though I can't see the little wrc wing just infront of the wipers that wrc's have....

Image

Just a little thing, but always forgotten about.
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Postby Akane » Sun Jul 17, 2005 2:35 pm

Probably a fake WRC? :P

But then there's a lot of reason why you lose the wing thing. I got Wildtard's old NA wipers (Coz my turbo ones are rusted). Maybe he did the same too?
No "stance", no "hellaflush", none of that bullshit. Nothing but no grip on full boost.
http://www.lol.co.nz/ random shit.
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Postby diss7 » Sun Jul 17, 2005 2:41 pm

its not actually connected to the wipers, its just in front. Its there to stop the bonnet flexing at high speeds.
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Postby flygt4 » Sun Jul 17, 2005 2:44 pm

random..
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Postby Akane » Sun Jul 17, 2005 3:07 pm

ahhh I see what you mean now. :/
No "stance", no "hellaflush", none of that bullshit. Nothing but no grip on full boost.
http://www.lol.co.nz/ random shit.
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Postby GT4 20 » Sun Jul 17, 2005 3:12 pm

Look at my orioginal post and you'll see that I'm fitting forged pistons soon :wink: While the engine is apart, will also be looking at how the head flow can be improved.

It is a genuine NZ new WRC so has steel internals. Could well be that the turbo needs pulling out an inspecting if it's taking so long to spool up compared with what you say above.

You can see the bonnet spoiler in this pic...

Image

Apexi FC ECU is on the shopping list for when the rebuilt engine is run in. Set up will be done on the dyno to ensure fuelling is as it needs to be - so if a bigger pump/injectors are required, then so be it.

While money isn't endless (I still have the rally car build to consider :wink: ), I do realise decent power can't be obtained with just a few $.
As said earlier, I am a newbie to Toyota mods, so please take this into consideration when posting. I am not a teenage 'dreamer' (though it'd be nice if I were 20 years younger :lol: )
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Postby vvega » Sun Jul 17, 2005 4:50 pm

haha sorry mate you get used to helping peole out and then getting to teh the point they say well i only have a toothpick this paperclip and a 2 cent coin can we still do all this :D

as for boost from idel .. antilag will give you that :D


i think perhaps if we looked towards a gt30 cams and a tubular manifold will see what your asking
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Postby GT4 20 » Sun Jul 17, 2005 5:38 pm

Cool. GT30 it is then. Nothing on the market tubular exhaust wise for an ST205 so it'll have to be a custom job. Anyone recommend someone good in Auckland? QUEST4 did an awesome job on the manifold on my Rover but they are, alas, no longer around :cry:
Gary


EDIT: Wonder how much my steel shaft CT20 is worth - won't be needing it any more by the sounds of things :lol:
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Postby vvega » Sun Jul 17, 2005 6:02 pm

id recomend evil-si
have seen some of his work and it is very very good
bonus been he is in auckland
good thing about him is he will do it how you want tit so anything is possible
i belive he will also do stainless
im sure he will come and have his say :D

evil_si@slingshot.co.nz


v
Last edited by vvega on Sun Jul 17, 2005 6:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Malcolm » Sun Jul 17, 2005 6:03 pm

sounds like it's a bit f*cked, I'll give you $20 for it :)
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Postby diss7 » Sun Jul 17, 2005 8:14 pm

Ahh nice car, I see you have the facelift headlights as well :)
Good luck with the new turbo
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Postby Dell'Orto » Sun Jul 17, 2005 9:19 pm

diss1dent wrote:well I remember mine used to start boosting about 1900rpm, and would be full boost well before 3000rpm,


It still does ;)

Gary, you could get about $600-800 for your turbo, depends on how desperate someone is for one. Plenty of Gen 2 MR2 owners who'd be keen ;)
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Postby diss7 » Sun Jul 17, 2005 9:35 pm

That turbo seems to have become the toyspeed whore.
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Postby GT4 20 » Sun Jul 17, 2005 10:02 pm

Good to know :D
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