How do you replace brake pads?

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How do you replace brake pads?

Postby Akane » Fri Apr 08, 2005 5:07 pm

Coz this happens when I wind the clamp down to push the piston back in:

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Postby Zak » Fri Apr 08, 2005 5:10 pm

If you open the bleed valve it should release the pressure, and it should go back in easy.

Of course I'm probably wrong though, my memory's screwed :?
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Postby Distrb » Fri Apr 08, 2005 5:20 pm

if its a rear one, you're proably going to need to turn the piston itself to wind it back in, as no clamp in the world will squeeze it back into place
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Postby Zak » Fri Apr 08, 2005 5:23 pm

Gotta love the "extra strong" written down the side of that clamp :lol:
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Postby Dr-X » Fri Apr 08, 2005 6:05 pm

8O 8O 8O Please tell me you weren't using that on the rear calipers
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Postby Zero_Cool » Fri Apr 08, 2005 6:23 pm

take off bleed valve or take off the hose completely
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Postby Akane » Fri Apr 08, 2005 6:27 pm

I didn't wanna bleed it coz nobody's home to bleed the system with me till late.

And I don't think it's a turn in coz the thing don't turn when i press the brake pedal.
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Postby ee904age » Fri Apr 08, 2005 6:29 pm

If its the rears, use some needle nose pliers as a big screwdriver to screw the piston back in. Clamping will get you nowhere.
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Postby Akane » Fri Apr 08, 2005 7:09 pm

the needle pliers that I bought are no good, I had to use some big pliers and damage some of my piston to get it in.

1 side done, other side to go.

Oh, and I had to bleed the thing...... sigh, cannot take shortcuts huh?
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Postby dohca » Fri Apr 08, 2005 7:25 pm

told ya :twisted:

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Postby Akane » Fri Apr 08, 2005 8:20 pm

gimme your postal address so I can send you a chocolate fish.
No "stance", no "hellaflush", none of that bullshit. Nothing but no grip on full boost.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Fri Apr 08, 2005 11:37 pm

shouldnt need to undo any brake lines... just make sure you dont overflow the bottle.

good effort on that clamp, you must have strong wrists :wink:
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Postby sergei » Fri Apr 08, 2005 11:49 pm

I'm sure it says "Made in China" on other side, on good ones I usualy manage bend the lever or screw up the thread on bolt, but not brake like that.
Never buy any tools which says "Made in China" unless you like breaking tools
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Postby Zero_Cool » Sat Apr 09, 2005 1:41 am

i find it was really really easy to do it with brake lines off is this bad to do it that way?
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Postby sergei » Sat Apr 09, 2005 1:51 am

if you don't mind bleeding brakes afterwards...
Actually if front callipers don't feel like they going in with some force, they will go eventually, just leave them under pressure for couple of minutes, then add more and so on, eventually they should go in, if for some reasons they don't go in, they might be jammed from overheating or rust etc.. in worst case you might have to replace calipers or hone and replace seals etc..
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Postby Akane » Sat Apr 09, 2005 2:05 am

I used a spanner, I have weak hands. It wasin't that tight tho, just a bit of force for a weak asian, probably a tickle for you guys.

Oh the other hand, my pads were worn down to the metal, now I know what that scraping sound was :) No wonder why I only scored 10% for handbrake at WOF.
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Postby [V8ROLA] » Sun Apr 10, 2005 11:46 pm

ahaha

dam that was some effort there akane :P LOL
you should ALWAYS bleed ya brakes on a pad change the more you can bleed it the better ;) eliminates any water build up in the system.
from memory they are the ratchet style caliper hence the wind in.
and it is easy to bleed brakes as a one man band :P
just need a pole or stick of the right length to hold the peedle down ;)
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Postby Zero_Cool » Mon Apr 11, 2005 12:59 am

haha or you can be superman and quickly push down the brakes then close off bleeder valve 8)
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Postby Wildcard » Mon Apr 11, 2005 10:02 am

I'm just upset the vice doesnt say 'exra stong' on it
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Postby Zero_Cool » Mon Apr 11, 2005 8:44 pm

probably says made in china doesn't that mean its strong? :roll:
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