by evil_si » Fri Nov 17, 2006 11:52 pm
meh manual, just want specs for valve adjustment / clearances, cam belt is easy pezy
ok listen up easiest way to get valves out
place head on clean flat solid surface ie work shop bench on a piece of card board. make sure of no nasty gremlins or protruding lumps or shit on the bench,
get an appropriate size socket that will sit nicely on spring retainer and clear the stem and collets, put a 6" extension in the end of socket and give it a short sharp hit with a hammer. if they are really tight you may need to place weight on the head so it doesnt move.
the collets will pop out and retainer will become free. allowing you to pull the valves out,
you will however need a proper tool ( valve spring compressor ) to refit them, if you buy one, stay away from cheap and nasty products, get a decent one that is adjustable, a fixed size is good for only 1 thing throwing at nearest annoying fcuker!
or alternativly make one, but i cant be bothered explaining how to right now.
make sure you label each valve so as it goes back into the same place.
preferably take it to a engine machinist and have the seats and faces machine cut, for the cost it will save you a lot of time consuming work.
or
if there is minimal pitting on valve seat valve sealing face you can lap them in with lapping compound,
the proper method is by hand with a suction cup, nice and slowly taking all fkin day.
my method however
i use lapping compound and a cordless drill with keyless chuck, hold the valve stem securely so it doesnt slip, dont to fast, and importantly go forward and reverse not just one way and make sure you pop it on and off the seat. as you go.
i dont care who thinks its rough, ive tried and proven this method, and when you work with engines with 48+ valves lapping by hand gets a little tedious.