Tools needed for head rebuild

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Tools needed for head rebuild

Postby MrOizo » Fri Nov 17, 2006 2:37 pm

I'm working through the rebuild of a head to basically say that i have done it.

what's some of the tools that I'm going to be needing?

I know i need to get some valve spring compressors to get the valves out and then do something about the seats.

what should to do to the valves and the seats? i remember using some sort of a scriber on a diesel engine a while back but cant remember what it was :oops:

So what should i have? :o
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head

Postby catchafox » Fri Nov 17, 2006 7:06 pm

you put paste on the valves and get a small sucker like a toilet plunger but smaller stick that to the valve and rubb it in your hands so the valve beds into the head it should be dull all round the seat. you will need all sorts of tools best to refer to a manual on how to set up the cam belt and tools required.
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Postby CAMB01 » Fri Nov 17, 2006 7:44 pm

what is the head off? what engine is it?
1993 Mitsubishi EVO 1 Racecar
1998 Mitsubishi Mirage ZR Asti Mivec (Daily Whip)
1989 AE91 FX-ZS (Previous)
1994 AE101 Levin 20v (previous)
1992 EE90 Corolla Sedan (previous)
1986 AE82 FX-GT Corolla (previous)
1989 AE92 FX-GTZ Supercharged (previous)
1992 EE90 Corolla Hatchback (previous)

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Postby MrOizo » Fri Nov 17, 2006 11:48 pm

1JZ..

there not really a maual out there ... guess i could look up a USDM 2JZ one... cant be too different
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Postby evil_si » Fri Nov 17, 2006 11:52 pm

meh manual, just want specs for valve adjustment / clearances, cam belt is easy pezy
ok listen up easiest way to get valves out

place head on clean flat solid surface ie work shop bench on a piece of card board. make sure of no nasty gremlins or protruding lumps or shit on the bench,

get an appropriate size socket that will sit nicely on spring retainer and clear the stem and collets, put a 6" extension in the end of socket and give it a short sharp hit with a hammer. if they are really tight you may need to place weight on the head so it doesnt move.

the collets will pop out and retainer will become free. allowing you to pull the valves out,

you will however need a proper tool ( valve spring compressor ) to refit them, if you buy one, stay away from cheap and nasty products, get a decent one that is adjustable, a fixed size is good for only 1 thing throwing at nearest annoying fcuker!

or alternativly make one, but i cant be bothered explaining how to right now.


make sure you label each valve so as it goes back into the same place.

preferably take it to a engine machinist and have the seats and faces machine cut, for the cost it will save you a lot of time consuming work.
or
if there is minimal pitting on valve seat valve sealing face you can lap them in with lapping compound,
the proper method is by hand with a suction cup, nice and slowly taking all fkin day.
my method however
i use lapping compound and a cordless drill with keyless chuck, hold the valve stem securely so it doesnt slip, dont to fast, and importantly go forward and reverse not just one way and make sure you pop it on and off the seat. as you go.
i dont care who thinks its rough, ive tried and proven this method, and when you work with engines with 48+ valves lapping by hand gets a little tedious.
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Postby MrOizo » Sat Nov 18, 2006 8:58 am

cheers!!

I no where near installing the head to a block and i have done it 10+ times on a JZ so no worries there..

just wanting to rebuild just to say i have - hahah

Looked at putting a socket over the top of the valves but thought i would score the bits where the top of the valves go down into... dont make sense huh :P

All good.. well will go and have a look and see if i can find me some compressors today and get it apart..

thanks!
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Postby Ae92typeX » Sat Nov 18, 2006 8:52 pm

evil_si wrote:
if there is minimal pitting on valve seat valve sealing face you can lap them in with lapping compound,
the proper method is by hand with a suction cup, nice and slowly taking all fkin day.
my method however
i use lapping compound and a cordless drill with keyless chuck, hold the valve stem securely so it doesnt slip, dont to fast, and importantly go forward and reverse not just one way and make sure you pop it on and off the seat. as you go.
i dont care who thinks its rough, ive tried and proven this method, and when you work with engines with 48+ valves lapping by hand gets a little tedious.


Ive used that method now and again also...always worked ok...just dont over do it
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Postby MrOizo » Wed Nov 22, 2006 5:06 pm

sweet as... its getting annoyig that i cant get the valves out at the moment so i will have a go at taking them out with the dodgey hit with a socket ;)

anyone witha valve spring compressor that i can borrow or buy?
chur chur
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Postby no_8wire » Wed Nov 22, 2006 5:50 pm

I have one...it was a fixed postion one but it is now "modified" to be a adjustable one. If you are interested give me a PM and I will flick you some pics etc
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Postby DFECTED » Fri Nov 24, 2006 10:58 pm

man.... just hit them with a socket!

then buff all the valves with a wire buff
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Postby matt dunn » Fri Nov 24, 2006 11:08 pm

Just doing one of my 20V heads for the second time now,
and want to do one of the Blacktop ones for my next engine build,

so after all the shaggin round I ordered a good double acting valve compressor yesterday,

Only to find out today a piece of cake way of removing and refitting the valves.

I basically used the same method as above to get them out but with the head upside down so the collets fall into the socket.
I used a wee portable workbench and had someone hold the head.
Sometimes you may actually be able to push the valves open by hand which is even easier.

Was talking to my head machinist about refitting them and he showed me a tool they use.
I looked at it and decided I could make something similar.
Using a stiff piece of hydraulic hose and a piece of vacuum hose in the centre, sit the valve retainer and collets in place,
and then just push them on and the fall into place.

Took me hours to get them all in last time, and about 6 mins this time.
So now they are about all in, my spring compressor will arive monday.

Matt
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Postby soopachargen » Sat Nov 25, 2006 6:43 am

matt dunn wrote:
Was talking to my head machinist about refitting them and he showed me a tool they use.
I looked at it and decided I could make something similar.
Using a stiff piece of hydraulic hose and a piece of vacuum hose in the centre, sit the valve retainer and collets in place,
and then just push them on and the fall into place.

Took me hours to get them all in last time, and about 6 mins this time.
So now they are about all in, my spring compressor will arive monday.

Matt


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Postby bluemaumau » Sat Nov 25, 2006 7:19 pm

just a semi hijack here:

im looking at getting a torque wrench, what drive is good for head and internals? will a 1/2 " drive be sweet?
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Where the $&#$% is that oil leak coming from /club

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Postby Ae92typeX » Sun Nov 26, 2006 9:12 am

bluemaumau wrote:just a semi hijack here:

im looking at getting a torque wrench, what drive is good for head and internals? will a 1/2 " drive be sweet?


Ive done many with a 1/2". would not buy smaller.
Cant believe im still a member here.

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Postby bluemaumau » Sun Nov 26, 2006 9:17 am

sweet just wanted to make sure
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Where the $&#$% is that oil leak coming from /club

looking for enkei RP01 center caps (white)
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Postby MrOizo » Sun May 27, 2007 10:28 pm

Just thought i would bring this post back from the dead.

Where i go for these lapping compounds? ripco? stupid cheap?

think its about time i got to it now:)
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Postby matt dunn » Sun May 27, 2007 10:48 pm

MrOizo wrote:Just thought i would bring this post back from the dead.

Where i go for these lapping compounds? ripco? stupid cheap?

think its about time i got to it now:)


i got some from repco when i did mine.
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Postby MrOizo » Sun May 27, 2007 11:38 pm

matt dunn wrote:
i got some from repco when i did mine.


Cheers - what type if there is more than one choice?

found some sort of a guide here: http://www.newmantools.com/clover.htm

does it depend on which one by visual inspection? or there really only one i should worry about?

cheers.
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Postby Jason T » Mon May 28, 2007 10:17 am

Fixing Toyota's since '87
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Postby MrOizo » Tue May 29, 2007 12:45 am



nope... got the valves out :)
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