T28 issues..

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T28 issues..

Postby slighty_sykotic » Thu May 22, 2008 9:47 pm

Hey guys.

Hoping you can help me out here.


Have a sr20det (gtir).

Received it in a non running condition, ie, turbo, manifold, intake etc was all off the car. Last owner (tosser) told me that it was missing under high load/boost, so he pulled it apart?...

Important point: cam cover/oil cap was off, and clean as hell. like been washed and dried clean.

Put it all back together.

Poured in some old oil (the correct amount) to get it cranking over to make sure there is no leaks etc. Started and ran it for a few bursts of 20secs or so. Seemed ok.

Drained the oil out, filled with brand new protec gtx. Old oil looked like oil.

Filled water system about 75%, Started car. Seemed ok, ran for probably 2mins or so (turned it off cause the rest of the exhaust isn't on and it was getting late. Car did NOT get hot.

Next day, happened to check oil cap, and its milky as hell. Think shit, headgasket is gone.

Drain the new oil back out, and its like light coloured mud.... Im sure its full of water.




So my question, I have I either have a cracked head (due to amount of water i think its more than a headgasket), or im wondering if a t28 turbo can crack and allow oil/water to mix inside it.

Taking the head of a gtir sucks big time, and I don't want to do it and then have a $&#$% turbo be the problem.

Anyone heard of a turbo cracking in this way?




And side note, have gone back to the old oil I had in the motor for a the first few cranks, and if i put it in a tray, leave it for a bit, it does have slugly light coloured mud shit in it... But nothing like the second lot.
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Postby RS13 » Thu May 22, 2008 10:31 pm

I'd undo the water piping to the turbo, and connect it back up so that it bypasses the turbo altogether, then put fresh oil in it and try again, although I've never seen turbo seals fail that badly that they've mixed fluids.

If the manifolds were off, I'd suggest that the misfiring story was bullshit, and that he was about to change the HG. But hey, at this time of year, there is a LOT of moisture in the air, my car and my parents' car both have the milky crap under the oil cap, which goes away with a decent, long drive. Short trips in such cold weather don't allow the engine to get to operating temp and burn the "froth" away.

So yeah, maybe try the turbo thing and go from there, is there any oil in the water, does it noticeably lose water, have you done a compression test? Maybe whip the sump off if possible and check for "milky" gunk in the crankcase?
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Postby matt dunn » Thu May 22, 2008 11:06 pm

I would doubt the turbo would leak water into the oil,


and after owning a GTiR and having to pull the head off it i can honestly say,


I would have sold it as is too !!
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Postby slighty_sykotic » Thu May 22, 2008 11:39 pm

matt dunn wrote:I would doubt the turbo would leak water into the oil,


and after owning a GTiR and having to pull the head off it i can honestly say,


I would have sold it as is too !!


Yeah, i've done a headgasket on my last one.

$&#$% it was horrible.


Yeah, im guessing the little shit knew exactly what it was.

RS13, there is no need to pull the sump off to look at the crankcase... the colour of the oil shows me the whole motor is going to be that colour inside.

Its like a browny gray colour. Ill take a pic tomorrow.

The think I don't understand is how it mixed so fast.



Only other cause is that he left it outside with the cam covers off and the bonnets massive vents allowed a fair bit of water into the motor, which when i ran it for the longer time, heated up and mixed with the oil to make the milky shit.


The guys story was he took the turbo off to get it checked cause he thought that was the missing problem. This guy was 16...

The intake manifold was together, but all the intercooler/piping etc was off.
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Fri May 23, 2008 12:04 am

how quick does it turn to crap? might sound a stupid idea but what about draining ALL the water out of the water lines, then run it for 20 odd seconds and see what the oil is like.

i know its not a toyota, but i've run engines with no water for a minute or so with no problems :lol: might help in eliminating exactly where the water is coming from.

otherwise do a compression test on the waterlines/head gasket!
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Postby Akane » Fri May 23, 2008 12:19 am

I run my GT28RS with no water cooling lines so you can bypass that to check if you really want to.
No "stance", no "hellaflush", none of that bullshit. Nothing but no grip on full boost.
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Postby matt dunn » Fri May 23, 2008 12:28 am

slighty_sykotic wrote:Yeah, i've done a headgasket on my last one.

$&#$% it was horrible.



Well then, you'll know to make sure there are hose clips on the wastegate actuator line where it goes across the intercooler,

As the wategate feed falls off and they dont have a boost cut.
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Postby slighty_sykotic » Fri May 23, 2008 9:54 am

matt dunn wrote:
slighty_sykotic wrote:Yeah, i've done a headgasket on my last one.

$&#$% it was horrible.



Well then, you'll know to make sure there are hose clips on the wastegate actuator line where it goes across the intercooler,

As the wategate feed falls off and they dont have a boost cut.



Heard of that happening :) Thanks.

This one has a front mount, so bit easier.

l1ttle_d3vil, as I said above, I did run it with no water (or very little, as in radiator was empty, block may have had traces of water). I ran it for around 20secs, and drained that oil out. It looked fine then. But I had a closer look at it again, and it DOES have a little bit of milky shit in it. Hardly any though.

It turned to complete shit in a couple of 2mins runs with the new oil and water in the motor/radiator.


Guess what I have to decide is if it is mearly the fact its been running longer (for a couple of 2mins runs), or if its the fact i filled the water system up that is causing it to go to shit.


Yeah, leakdown test (compression is over 180 on all) or a water system pressure test is the way to go I guess. How to get all the shit out of the motor? Engine flush?
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Postby RedMist » Fri May 23, 2008 10:03 am

Akane wrote:I sit my GT28RS with no water cooling lines so you can bypass that to check if you really want to.


Corrected for accuracy.
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Postby Si » Fri May 23, 2008 11:00 am

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Postby slighty_sykotic » Fri May 23, 2008 12:28 pm

Si wrote:http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_part_detail.asp?PartID=380

Done.



Until its the head or the turbo that is causing the problem..... Then I just have a bigger and more expenisve sr20 (sr24..) covered in milky shit.
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Postby Akane » Fri May 23, 2008 12:54 pm

RedMist wrote:
Akane wrote:I sit my GT28RS with no water cooling lines so you can bypass that to check if you really want to.


Corrected for accuracy.


I know, soon........... soon I might stop procastinating and do something.
No "stance", no "hellaflush", none of that bullshit. Nothing but no grip on full boost.
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Postby Si » Fri May 23, 2008 3:23 pm

slighty_sykotic wrote:Until its the head or the turbo that is causing the problem..... Then I just have a bigger and more expenisve sr20 (sr24..) covered in milky sh*t.


No no, with the 2.4 you need a bigger turbo! and then a checked ported polished worked head......

Problem solved!
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Postby ~SlideWays~ » Fri May 23, 2008 3:55 pm

Akane wrote:
RedMist wrote:
Akane wrote:I sit my GT28RS with no water cooling lines so you can bypass that to check if you really want to.


Corrected for accuracy.


I know, soon........... soon I might stop procastinating and do something.


I ran a GT28RS with no water lines and it died after less that 10,000km's. Steve Murch's report said bearings were overheated. Most likely due to no water cooling.

Expensive lesson learnt :lol: :cry:
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Postby Akane » Fri May 23, 2008 5:37 pm

~SlideWays~ wrote:
Akane wrote:
RedMist wrote:
Akane wrote:I sit my GT28RS with no water cooling lines so you can bypass that to check if you really want to.


Corrected for accuracy.


I know, soon........... soon I might stop procastinating and do something.


I ran a GT28RS with no water lines and it died after less that 10,000km's. Steve Murch's report said bearings were overheated. Most likely due to no water cooling.

Expensive lesson learnt :lol: :cry:


That's weird, I bought mine 2nd hand from the USA, ran it without water lines for about 8000kms. It has

1) Been to dodgey guys at MCR who blocked the oil return line and called me up and said "Yeah took your car for a test drive and it's smoking", and turns out they replaced my oil return line when i didn't even ask them to do, yet they didn't replace the stripped manifold studs that i paid $700 for.

2) had bad Power FC tuning at A1 Turbos that blew the headgasket.

3) Gone on long trips (Auck -> New plymouth -> Auck same day), manifold was gowing red

4) Been to Honda vs Toyota drags.

5) Pukekohe drift days.

And it's still sweet as :) I do cool down the turbo everytime before I turn off the engine. No boosting 2mins before stopping etc.
No "stance", no "hellaflush", none of that bullshit. Nothing but no grip on full boost.
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Postby slighty_sykotic » Fri May 23, 2008 7:58 pm

Best idea to get watery oil shit out?
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Postby matt dunn » Fri May 23, 2008 8:03 pm

slighty_sykotic wrote:Best idea to get watery oil sh*t out?


Get it hot and do an oil change,not just up to temp but run it till the fan comes on,

Then run it on the new oil until the fan comes on again, stop the car, remove the tappet cover and let it sit overnight in a dry garage.
The water will evaporate.

that's what i did when I ended up with water in the oil,
but I only had a little not a lot.
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Postby slighty_sykotic » Fri May 23, 2008 8:11 pm

Thanks for that, ill give that a go over the weekend
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Postby slighty_sykotic » Fri May 23, 2008 9:17 pm

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Postby molex » Sat May 24, 2008 3:24 am

You sure somebody isn't taking the piss and pouring milkshake in there when you aren't looking? Seriously though, that's one messed up colour. No chance a leak in the turbo could pollute it so consistently and so fast...
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