This is a pretty broard but the experts here may be able to

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This is a pretty broard but the experts here may be able to

Postby Paul Skidmore » Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:36 pm

help... I have a 1994 Caldina TZ that needs a cambelt/tensioner, waterpump change... Is it a easy enough job for a d.i.yer or is this a job for a pro... If so how much roughly would a garage charge for this kind of service...
Any help will be most appreciated
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Postby Dell'Orto » Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:36 pm

3SFE arent the TZ's? If so, piece of cake
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Postby Paul Skidmore » Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:39 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:3SFE arent the TZ's? If so, piece of cake
Yup its the 3sfe motor... Does the engine need to come out?
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Postby levinguy » Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:40 pm

Paul Skidmore wrote:
Dell'Orto wrote:3SFE arent the TZ's? If so, piece of cake
Yup its the 3sfe motor... Does the engine need to come out?


no
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Postby Dell'Orto » Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:44 pm

Just undo the drivers side mount, and use a jack to raise and lower it, simple as.
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

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Postby Paul Skidmore » Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:46 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:Just undo the drivers side mount, and use a jack to raise and lower it, simple as.
Brillant... Thanks for your help!
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Postby Jdawg » Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:46 pm

Bitchiest part is taking the engine mount off.
Did the belt on my sister's Curren last weekend
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Postby Paul Skidmore » Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:58 pm

Jdawg wrote:Bitchiest part is taking the engine mount off.
Did the belt on my sister's Curren last weekend

Now foe the big question... What sort of price foe a mechanic to do the work for me then? :wink:
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Postby loudstealthGT-Four » Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:08 pm

Paul Skidmore wrote:
Jdawg wrote:Bitchiest part is taking the engine mount off.
Did the belt on my sister's Curren last weekend

Now foe the big question... What sort of price foe a mechanic to do the work for me then? :wink:


would be best to go and ask one :)
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Postby Paul Skidmore » Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:20 pm

loudstealthGT-Four wrote:
Paul Skidmore wrote:
Jdawg wrote:Bitchiest part is taking the engine mount off.
Did the belt on my sister's Curren last weekend

Now foe the big question... What sort of price foe a mechanic to do the work for me then? :wink:


would be best to go and ask one :)
Fair enough... I was cheeky in asking but it was worth a crack.
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Postby levinguy » Tue Dec 06, 2011 11:22 pm

it comes down to, what have you done before and how long without this car can you last if something goes wrong? if you can survive without it and want to do it right then go for it.
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Postby Dell'Orto » Tue Dec 06, 2011 11:48 pm

Not sure what a mechanic would charge, would assume probably 3 hours labour plus parts.
Took me about 5 to do a Rav 4 with ABS, just pottering about
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OMG so shiny!

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Postby solitaire » Wed Dec 07, 2011 12:05 am

And I find the first time I do anything it takes at least 4x as long as it should
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Postby rollaholic » Wed Dec 07, 2011 6:01 am

its sort of one of those if you need to ask you probably shouldnt do it type jobs. they are relatively straight forward in terms of getting it all in bits, but if you are not confident with setting up the new belt its not hard to give yourself issues. having someone who knows what to do handy to check your work before you re-assemble is probably advisable if its your first time
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Postby Quint » Wed Dec 07, 2011 7:45 am

Get a manual, follow instructions, turn it over by hand a few times after you've installed it (need to anyway to set your tensioner) to make sure nothing fouls.
Can't go wrong, easy job, good one to pop your cheery on.

Do your front seal at the same time. worth it while your there for a 10 dollaer seal.
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Postby Sick Puppy » Wed Dec 07, 2011 11:04 pm

Quint wrote:Do your front seal at the same time. worth it while your there for a 10 dollaer seal.
Me being a n00b, what is the front seal for/to?

Oh, and don't just replace the cambelt, do the cam seals too - may not be a major now, but if they go, the engine oil will leak onto the belt, perishing the rubber and ultimately breaking it... ask me how I know. :evil: Thankfully the engine is non-interference... :roll:

You could do the waterpump too while you're there!
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Postby Grrrrrrr! » Wed Dec 07, 2011 11:18 pm

front seal = front crank seal. the one behind the crank pulley.

Leaky front seal has same problem as leaky cam seals WRT belt damage.
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Postby 1I1 » Thu Dec 08, 2011 1:51 pm

There's also the seal and o-ring on the oil pump (right next to the crank pulley) that start to leak
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Postby Mr Revhead » Thu Dec 08, 2011 3:54 pm

Water pump is a MUST on the 3S when doing the cambelt
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Postby rollaholic » Fri Dec 09, 2011 6:37 am

as above, and get a genuine one so it comes with all the little gaskets and o-rings. nothing like that big o-ring on the pipe going into the back of the pump springing a leak 6 months after you've had the cambelt off. i reckon a waterpump at a minimum is a must for any engine that needs the belt off to change it.

frankly you should be changing all the idlers and tensioners too, and the cam seal for that matter
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