Worn Superstrut bushes or something else? (Curren ST206)

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Worn Superstrut bushes or something else? (Curren ST206)

Postby ~SlideWays~ » Mon Apr 16, 2012 10:46 am

Hey guys,

The daily driver is making horrible noises under braking, it sounds like a rubbery creaking. It only happens under forward braking, not in reverse or while cornering etc. The noise slows down in proportion to speed, like when pulling up to traffic lights the last 'creak' is slooow and drawn out until you come to a full stop.

I'm positive it is coming from the front right corner so I jacked it up and tried to see if there was anything rubbing/touching, but nothing. Took pads out and there is nothing fouling it up, plenty of pad left but gave them a sand down anyway.

Took it for a drive and it was gone! ....for about 5 minutes and now its back, even worse than before?!

I know superstrut bushes are known for making knocking noises but would that fit with this weird rubbing loud creak that sounds like it is something rotating rather than a single creak from play in bushes?

I'm about to give up and take it to my mechanic but thought I'd ask here first.



Cheers
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Postby Crucible » Mon Apr 16, 2012 2:04 pm

Yeah,

the ss dog bone joint will give you those symptoms, sounds terrible when they flog out.
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Postby ~SlideWays~ » Mon Apr 16, 2012 2:21 pm

True-No-Turbo wrote:Yeah,

the ss dog bone joint will give you those symptoms, sounds terrible when they flog out.


Cheers man, I'll see if I can find any play in it then see about a TGP replacement.
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Postby sergei » Mon Apr 16, 2012 3:13 pm

To check them, jack up the car on one wheel (while another is on the ground) and check for "bearing play" on full lock each way.
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Postby ~SlideWays~ » Mon Apr 16, 2012 4:15 pm

sergei wrote:To check them, jack up the car on one wheel (while another is on the ground) and check for "bearing play" on full lock each way.


Thanks Sergei, will try this one night this week.
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Postby edwagon » Mon Apr 16, 2012 4:57 pm

Silly as this may sound, make sure the front crossmember/subframe is tight to the floor - I had similar noises from my old st206 and ignored them assuming it was the SS - turned out I just needed to nip these bolts up!
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Postby AE82 FXGT » Mon Apr 16, 2012 7:56 pm

Also check wheel bearings themselves, I've heard one that displayed these sort of symptoms, was a terrible scraping sound when the wheel in question was loaded up. So stopping and cornering made the sound.

Just to consider if you don't find play in the SS
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Postby KinLoud » Tue Apr 17, 2012 8:48 am

From you description I dont think it is the superstrut causing the problem.

Stone guard around the brake disk bent - had this before, it was only just touching the disk...
As i drove it got hotter, so it bent more and pushed harder onto the disk = more noise.
Stop for 5 mins it would cool down and be quiet for the first km then get noisy again

TO CHECK SUPER STRUT

To check the little arm that links the parts of the superstrut suspension.

Jack car up
Remove wheel
Grip spring perch (where bottom of spring touches the strut)
Try to twist the strut (around the axis of the spring)

If you can twist the strut the superstrut joint is worn and will need replacing.

Good Luck

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Postby Jdawg » Tue Apr 17, 2012 2:43 pm

Also check the Banana bar where it bolts to Chassis. Rubber bush in there flogs out too.
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Postby jbod » Wed Apr 18, 2012 8:18 pm

I have found if the brake rotors are really worn, an there is an average amount of break pad left, if the pistons in the caliper have to extend to far a similar sound you are experiencing happens..could be worth checking out
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Postby Lloyd » Wed Apr 18, 2012 8:32 pm

Auto? Pads haven't just fried up?
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Postby ~SlideWays~ » Wed Apr 18, 2012 8:55 pm

Manual, must be high spec model because its an LSD box.

Plenty left in the pads on drivers side, haven't looked at passenger side pads. Rotors look fine, not a major lip on the edge or anything.

--------

Checked it tonight by doing a 'wheel bearing check' like sergei suggested and found significant play on the front passenger side (even though I was sure the sound was drivers side). There isn't any wheelbearing noise btw, the play makes the whole strut move, but if I grab the spring I can't make it move.

Is there a way I can tell if its the dog bone/fig8 joint without taking it to bits since its our daily for work? Is it possible its another bush or are these symptoms pointing right at worn dog bone joint?
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Postby sergei » Wed Apr 18, 2012 9:09 pm

~SlideWays~ wrote:Manual, must be high spec model because its an LSD box.

Plenty left in the pads on drivers side, haven't looked at passenger side pads. Rotors look fine, not a major lip on the edge or anything.

--------

Checked it tonight by doing a 'wheel bearing check' like sergei suggested and found significant play on the front passenger side (even though I was sure the sound was drivers side). There isn't any wheelbearing noise btw, the play makes the whole strut move, but if I grab the spring I can't make it move.

Is there a way I can tell if its the dog bone/fig8 joint without taking it to bits since its our daily for work? Is it possible its another bush or are these symptoms pointing right at worn dog bone joint?


it will could be both the fig8 and straight arm. One way to check is to put a crowbar in between and see what moves.
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Postby ~SlideWays~ » Wed Apr 18, 2012 9:10 pm

Just saw KinLoud's post so tested it that way too and have the exact symptoms described.

Will order in the morning and hopefully stop that horrible noise!

Is there any special way to remove the joint? Looks like there might not be enough room to simply undo both nuts and slide the bolt out, looks like it'll foul.
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Postby Crucible » Thu Apr 19, 2012 12:23 am

~SlideWays~ wrote:Is there any special way to remove the joint? Looks like there might not be enough room to simply undo both nuts and slide the bolt out, looks like it'll foul.


Yeah you can normally get a pry bar in there to check for wear.

The dog bone joints can get pretty tight, Ive had to use Ball joint puller in the past with a little bit of heat to seperate the taper as splitting fork didnt work.
And yes Im well aware you shouldnt use heat near susp components (last option) lol.

Let me know if you get stuck.
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Postby sergei » Thu Apr 19, 2012 9:00 am

Fig8 joint can be done on the car. Straight arm is pain in the ass normally because it goes in the plate under a knuckle and you need to use the press to separate it from the plate.
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Postby ~SlideWays~ » Thu May 03, 2012 12:24 pm

Bugger, replaced fig 8 joint to fix play on passenger side, also replaced rear engine mount.

But the noise is still there! Passed WOF the other day even with the noise because there is no play in suspension or bearings.

Guess I'll take the discs off and see if there is something fouling there?
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Postby gt4dude » Fri May 04, 2012 1:18 pm

worn wheel bearing will give you a rubbing sound at frequency proportional to speed (rotational noise) while cornering with toe in/out freeplay

worn superstrut arms will give you a knocking sound with caster freeplay (back and forth)

continuing to drive with worn superstrut arms will tug the suspension top away from the mounting plate causing the mild steel strut assembly to tear

worn brake pads will just give you an obvious squeel.
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