Corona wrote:I am looking at doing an engine swap on my ?95 Corona ST191 2.0 GL.
What I want to do is remove the existing 3S-FE + A241E Auto Transmission, and replacing it with a 3rd Gen 3S-GTE + (see below).
Awesome
Corona wrote:I know from the research I have done on the net is that the engine will bolt straight up, with maybe a couple of items swapped over from the original block. (Alternator, AC, P/S brackets etc).
You will probably use the 3sgte alternator, but aircon and ps from your original motor, and possibly the front engine mount (by the cambelt) from your old motor.
Corona wrote:I know that I will need a new exhaust (the one I have now is nearly stuffed anyway, mind you 125k on a factory exhaust ant too bad). I would like to have a Corona with twin pipes coming out of the back
and I don?t what it to be loud, as that job is up to my stereo (and it does a fine job
), although throaty is Ok.
Twin pipes on a 4 cyl is pretty much just for looks and will have a slight effect on performance. Having said that, a 3" that splits into 2x 2.25" with good mufflers should be ok, possibly quieter as 2 x 2.25" mufflers have more surface area than one 3".
Corona wrote:The Air intake? intercooler? air cleaner?. What to do???? How to do???
If you get an ST205 engine with the factory water to air intercooler, then keeping that would be a good option, as it creates stuff all lag and gives good cooling characteristics for a street car, and will not be too obvious to other people like a front mount is. A good pod filter in a cold air box will give decent gains, especially if combined with a nice straight pipe going to the turbo.
Corona wrote:The source of the engine will be a late model Celica, as apposed to a MR2, as this will allow me to use the wiring harness, without having to find one from elsewhere, or manufacture my own (scary thought).
Have you got prices on one of these? They can be pretty expensive, but are a good choice, and much easier than converting an MR2 engine for use in a FWD configuration.
Corona wrote:1) Am I expected to fall into any traps with the swap over?
2) Being technically and mechanically minded (but far from being a mechanic) am I able to do this, or should I leave it up to the ?Pros?? (I am handy with and have access to Welders, Lathes, Grinders, Drills and Milling Machines etc?)
The difficult part will be the wiring, but even that isn't too bad if you have wiring diagrams for both cars, and reasonable ability with a soldering iron and at reading schematics.
You will probably also need to upgrade the radiator to one from a GT-Four (any generation should suffice, just need to find the one that fits your car easiest)
Things like fuel lines, coolant hoses etc shouldn't need any fabrication, you should easily be able to make do with the ones from your old engine and the stuff that comes with the new one.
Corona wrote:3) Would I need to get the vehicle recertified with this new engine? (or would fitting a 3S-GE get around this, as other Carina models came with this engine)
4) How much for the certification?
Yes, it would need a cert. I don't think fitting a 3SGE would get you around this. However, if it looks stock and there is nothing on the engine that contradicts the chassis plate that says 3SFE then you might get away with it, really depends how legit you want to be. Certification varies from $350ish to about $800, would need to talk to someone who does them to find out exactly.
Corona wrote:5) Do I need to replace any suspension, and breaks (as the rears are have drums)?
You might want to beef up the front suspension for the extra weight of the turbo engine, but it isn't 100% neccesary. It wouldn't hurt to upgrade the rear to disks (although not neccesary either). Some good pads on the front (mintex from 0800 brakes) would probably be sufficient.
Corona wrote:]
6) What sort of transmission should I be using? (See below)
Transmission
I am as yet still undecided as to what transmission that I should use, and for that fact do I need a new transmission?
I like the ability of being able to select a gear in an Auto, and ?forget about it?. But I also like the ability of being able to select what gear when I what it.
Is 4WD an option or worth the hassle? I read a thread at some stage that basically came down to it not being an option on my chassis, but I cannot remember why. Once deciding on the transmission, what model of vehicle do I get one out of, MR2, Celica, Camry? And should I have any problems mounting them in the Corona?
For the transmission you could use an E series (code something like E53) box from an ST20* Celica/Curren, or an E series from an MR2 turbo. If you use the MR2 one you will need to find a shifter arm (part that goes into the box) from a FWD E series box. Mounting shouldn't be an issue, but you might need to search a lot to find the right mount to go on the end of the gearbox to suit your chassis. It would be a good idea to install a new clutch before installing the engine. When ordering, you will need to get the clutch cover to suit the engine, and the disk and release bearing to suit the car that the gearbox came from. Usually with Toyota they will be the same, but sometimes they aren't.
Keeping it auto would be an option, but the strength of the factory box might be an issue, and I don't know anything about upgrades for automatic boxes on S series engines. A v6 camry one might work, but I don't know. 4WD would be an extremely expensive option, an I don't think it would be worth it.
Corona wrote:Another thing that I am unsure about at the moment, is what sort of ECU that I should be using? Factory or Aftermarket? (After reading another thread, I am currently ?playing? with the Motec PC Software, and all I can say is Cool, how much
(Would probably blow budget tho)
You should be able to use the factory ecu with no problems, however if you want take the car to higher levels of performance, then an aftermarket ecu would be a good choice, however it would probably be easiest to start with a factory one for now.
Corona wrote:Also, does anybody have any guestimates as to what sort of prices I will be looking at? Overall I would like to only spend about $5000 max on the whole project, any more than that I might as well sell the car & buy a Caldina GT-T.
Depends how much work you do yourself. If you can do the lot, then budget $2500 for a good ST205 engine, $300-600 for the gearbox, $800 for the exhaust (less if you have mates than can do it), probably $300 for a good fuel pump, another $200 or so for the parts to upgrade the rear brakes to disks, $340 for good brake pads, up to $800 for cert, $200 for the intake, $250 for clutch, then allow probably $500 for other stuff that comes up like needing new fluids, maybe changing the cambelt etc and other miscellaneous unplanned stuff, that is more than $5K but there are plenty of places in there where you can save money by shopping around and getting mates to do stuff. Just remembered that with the manual conversion you will need to get the associated parts for that which could add another $150.
Corona wrote:What I want to do at the end of the project it to have a _reliable_ car that has better engine performance than what it does now, while keeping the car blending in to the surroundings. As for total HP, I would like to get about 250Hp. (Having more Hp that the Old Mans Fairmont might just cheese him off a bit
)
250hp (at the engine) is basically what you can expect from the engine stock, with the exhaust, intake, and more boost you can easily get 300hp without needing to do any major upgrades. Should be reliable too, as long as you take your time to make sure everything is done properly (especially the wiring), and you maintain it well (use good oil, change regularly, don't rape the car when it's cold, attend to funny noises etc).
Corona wrote:I am not looking for a debate as to what is the best from guesses on what ppl think that I should do, I am looking at informed decisions as to what to do. As I what to ?Do it once, do it right?
Definately the best approach, there's nothing worse than having to go through a job someone has done and stuffed up to try and make everything work properly.
----edit----
damn I'm slow, when I clicked reply noone had replied. Anyway as mentioned by cr1m1nl a lot of the stuff can be obtained cheaply through places like pick-a-part
good news is that the brakes from a st182 celica gtr or a disk brake corona (this was an option on some models) bolt straight up and can be had from pick-a-part for about $75
