boost gt4 205

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boost gt4 205

Postby TRDmod » Wed Jun 23, 2004 10:57 am

finally got a boost gbauge, its reading at .85 stable boost to .9 unstable boost. (boost in bar)

i was wondering, if i just got a mechanical boost controller, and put the boost to 1 bar, would i need to modify anything? i was thinking of getting a pid filter kit hks for it, already have a cat back 3inch, so after getting the pod

can i jsut put it to 1 bar which is 15psi, or even 1.1 bar which is roughly 16 psi, would this harm the car??

now also im thinking of getting a hsk oil cooler kit for 1300 installed So if I take it to the track, with the slightly higher boost, it would sufficiently cool the oil.

Any comments?
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Postby Twolitre » Wed Jun 23, 2004 11:08 am

Your engine and ecu etc can support up to 1.2 bar with no additional modification but you run the risk of the ceramic turbine breaking off from the shaft and at high boost levels your cat will be getting mighty hot not to mention very restrictive which I suggest you replace with something like this
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ok

Postby TRDmod » Wed Jun 23, 2004 11:20 am

so once i get that dump pipe, its cool how there is one specifically for gt4s, i have a hard time finding stuff for them

once i have that, how bout the pistons? would they warp or melt and cant handle the power?

so let me get this correc tme if im wrong

1: get a non ceramic turbo first
2: get a dump pipe
?
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Postby Twolitre » Wed Jun 23, 2004 11:38 am

This is just my opinion but I'd do things in this order.

1. Install dump pipe as per above post
2. Increase boost to between 1-1.2 bar
3. If ceramic turbine fails then upgrade to stronger spec

You might have good luck with the stock turbo at higher boost, you may not, it's inconclusive to say it will fail at 'X' amount of boost and for how long it will sustain it for is anybodys guess, and yes your pistons will be fine as long as everything else is in good condition ie. fuel and ignition systems, fuel quality etc
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ok cool

Postby TRDmod » Wed Jun 23, 2004 11:47 am

ok, if i dont install a full pod filter, jsut put a super flow hsk panel filter, would that be ok at 1-1.2 bar boost?

if the turbo goes, will that engine get wrecked?
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Postby Twolitre » Wed Jun 23, 2004 12:08 pm

Yeah panel filter would be a good idea, I ran upwards of 1 bar on a stock paper air filter so that'll be fine.
You would have to be about the most unlucky guy on earth for a failed turbo to result in a damaged engine but it can happen.
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ok

Postby TRDmod » Wed Jun 23, 2004 12:32 pm

reason i asked because there was a gt4 in my local toyota, having its engine replace because part of the turbo went into the engine.....thats y i asked

i would rather get a better turbo

So personally, when you have put it to 1.2 bar,

Have you had ANY problems at all, ANY PROBLEMS what so ever….? Cos I plan on getting an oil cooler too, cos taking it to puke and track days you need a oil cooler…

But apart from that aspect, have you had any problems??????
Loss in performance in time due to damange and extreme wear??
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Postby Twolitre » Wed Jun 23, 2004 1:40 pm

I'm not quite sure if you are meaning did I have any engine problems/symtoms or any problems in general with the car?
The only problem I had with the car was with the diff mount, this is like an engine mount which supports the rear diff to the subframe and when it fails it results in a thumping/banging noise upon power transfer, however this only cost me $90 to have it re-moulded at autolign and I installed it myself. As for the engine, no it's a strong engine which with good maintanence will give good reliability.
An oil cooler would be a great idea for the track but don't forget some of the basics like good aftermarket water and oil pressure gauges, replace your stock radiator hose clamps with propper ones and maybe a new radiator cap etc?
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Re: ok

Postby anthonym » Wed Jun 23, 2004 1:45 pm

TRDmod wrote:reason i asked because there was a gt4 in my local toyota, having its engine replace because part of the turbo went into the engine.....thats y i asked

i would rather get a better turbo

Correct, there is a good chance that if the ceramic turbine shatters, bits will be sucked back into the engine and wreck it. Gen III 3SGTEs appear to be prone to this. I would recommend you do the turbo first and don't turn the boost up until you have.

Removing the cat is worthwhile but you will not get a WOF when the new emmissions laws come into force. Perhaps replace it with an aftermarket hi-flow cat further down the exhaust.
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ok

Postby TRDmod » Wed Jun 23, 2004 2:16 pm

Doesn’t the st205 gt4 come with a high flow cat converter anyways? That’s what I got told by Toyota themselves, the cat converter on the gt4s 205 is already a high performance one…correct me if im wrong.

Yeah, I will get oil and water pressure gauges, and temps for all of them before I engage in this anwyays, im going to put the oil temp gauge just before the oil cooler, is this a good move?

Heres one
If I decide not to remove the cat converter, and do the mods that we discussed, which si non ceramic shaft turbo enough for 1-.12 bar, so it wont be a large turbo, oil cooler and gauges, what would happen if I leave the can converter in there?

I have a 3 inch exhaust hks, would there be any difference in performance, if so how much if I get my muffler modified so I can remove it and attach a straight pipe with out muffler when im on the track, how much difference would this make, because it doesn’t cost much to do so, you jstu remove muffler and put a dual exhaust design straight pipe with out a muffler.
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Postby Rollux » Wed Jun 23, 2004 2:24 pm

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the ceramic turbine on the exhaust side? If so, how does your shattered ehaust wheel end up inside the engine? I would assume it does what Skylines do, spit lots of little ceramic bits into the exhaust pipe and out the muffler if it's straight enough.
How do these pieces crawl back against the gas flow and lodge in the engine? :?
I would assume you would just have no boost, as does the skyline in our workshop at the moment...
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Re: ok

Postby anthonym » Wed Jun 23, 2004 6:05 pm

TRDmod wrote:Doesn’t the st205 gt4 come with a high flow cat converter anyways? That’s what I got told by Toyota themselves, the cat converter on the gt4s 205 is already a high performance one…correct me if im wrong.


Haven't heard that one before, the theory behind moving it is to improve flow out of the turbo and remove what is in effect a large heat sink from the engine bay.

Heres one
If I decide not to remove the cat converter, and do the mods that we discussed, which si non ceramic shaft turbo enough for 1-.12 bar, so it wont be a large turbo, oil cooler and gauges, what would happen if I leave the can converter in there?


Hard to say, possibly nothing, especially if you have a super free flow cat-back exhaust.

I have a 3 inch exhaust hks, would there be any difference in performance, if so how much if I get my muffler modified so I can remove it and attach a straight pipe with out muffler when im on the track, how much difference would this make, because it doesn’t cost much to do so, you jstu remove muffler and put a dual exhaust design straight pipe with out a muffler.

It should improve top end power with a possible loss of low end power if the piping is too large. You would probably be over the noise limit for Pukekohe though.
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Postby anthonym » Wed Jun 23, 2004 6:11 pm

Rollux wrote:Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the ceramic turbine on the exhaust side? If so, how does your shattered ehaust wheel end up inside the engine? I would assume it does what Skylines do, spit lots of little ceramic bits into the exhaust pipe and out the muffler if it's straight enough.
How do these pieces crawl back against the gas flow and lodge in the engine? :?

Having seen the evidence of ceramic shards beating up the pistons and head, I can assure you it does happen. Exactly how, I'm not sure. As I said it seems to be a peculiar feature of the gen 3 3SGTE.
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ok swet as

Postby TRDmod » Wed Jun 23, 2004 11:07 pm

i dont think there is a noise limit in pukekohe, last two times i was there, therew as the gt3s and the v8 international practising too, then the second time i was tehre, there was a few cars with no mufflers, so loud made my exhaust sound like a pea shooter. :) was rather humbling
butyeha that what i figured, it might improve power, but if i put a straight 3 inch, no any bigger, so the rest fot he exhaust is 3 inch allt he way to the end hole, i dont see how that would hinder performance apart from improve it...but im here for feedback

well ill avhe to see, if its worth taking my cat converter out, cos i was speaking to a guy with a 205 at pitstop, he took the cat converter he suggested leaving it in there cos he said it wont make much difference..in fact it ddint make much difference at all apart from noise, the noise apprently is different.....

but anyways, thats not urgent one ill look into it further.
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Postby pidge » Wed Jun 23, 2004 11:31 pm

nemesis wrote:
Rollux wrote:Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the ceramic turbine on the exhaust side? If so, how does your shattered ehaust wheel end up inside the engine? I would assume it does what Skylines do, spit lots of little ceramic bits into the exhaust pipe and out the muffler if it's straight enough.
How do these pieces crawl back against the gas flow and lodge in the engine? :?

Having seen the evidence of ceramic shards beating up the pistons and head, I can assure you it does happen. Exactly how, I'm not sure. As I said it seems to be a peculiar feature of the gen 3 3SGTE.

When the turbo fails in an engine while under boost, there will be over-pressure in the exhuast system - and the pressure in the exhaust manifold and engine dropping rapidly - and the RPM of the engine will also be dropping rapidly. The broken bits of the cermic turbine wheel will probably stay in the turbine housing for a significant amount of time, since the turbine is doing up to 100,000rpm just before it failed. Since the engine cylinder pressure is now lower than then pressure in the exhuast system, especially once the engine rpm drops and the driver takes their foot off the accelerator, the engine appears to suck the cermic bits - where as the are actually blown in.

maybe, if the turbo fails in this fashion, it would probably pay to keep your foot down to make sure the bits of the turbine are blown out of the turbo instead of sucked into the engine...
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Postby Al » Wed Jun 23, 2004 11:49 pm

If you get the aussie downpipe you wont be overly impressed with the quality for the price you pay.
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Postby TWSTD » Fri Jun 25, 2004 6:15 pm

i was thinkin thats rather expensive too - i mean B at nite parts charged me $295 for a custom downpipe for my carib when i turbocharged it....
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Postby Al » Fri Jun 25, 2004 10:42 pm

Yeah $560 landed is quite pricey. My mechanic took one look at it and said he could do it for half the price and have it HPC coated and finished better :roll:
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