Problems with my AE111 20v

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Problems with my AE111 20v

Postby LvnLver » Thu Jun 24, 2004 11:32 pm

hi people i was wondering if you could help me, i have a problem with my levin while i am cruzing around 90 - 100 km/h the car kinda cuts off or misses......... i have changed the spark plugs, new leads, new fuel filter new oil and filter. Help please cause it gets a bit annoyin.

Another thing is were is the ecu located in these cars and were could i get the wiring diagram for this car from.

cheers
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Postby Twolitre » Thu Jun 24, 2004 11:52 pm

The ecu is located behind the stereo on the floor near the firewall beneath the carpet, you might want to check your diagnostics to see if your ecu is registering any codes, to do this bend a paperclip into shape and short out pins TE1 and E1 in the diagnostics terminal in the engine bay in the passenger corner of the engine bay, turn the ignition to the on position and count how many times the check engine light on the dash flashes, if it continually flashes on and off then you have no codes.
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Postby nobbie » Fri Jun 25, 2004 8:47 am

j have this prob with my bzr, took it to toyota and they werent sure what it was?? Let me know if you find out.
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Postby aesc » Fri Jun 25, 2004 11:00 am

Knock sensor??
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Postby AceSniper » Fri Jun 25, 2004 1:07 pm

fuel pump relay?

A problem I had afew weeks ago (i couldnt get over 2000rpm an it ran like crap!!) two capaciters in the ecu were leaking, put two new ones in an it was fine.
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Postby LvnLver » Sat Jun 26, 2004 12:26 am

cheers twolitre...... what is the knock sensor and how can i get that checked up. About the fuel relay thing it drives fine when i am accelrating but only when i start to cruise at 100 or round that speed or if i hold the rpm at 3000 and just cuts out, but will have a check into that as well, thanks. By the way How much did it cost you to get your fuel relay changed or checked?
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Postby AceSniper » Sat Jun 26, 2004 11:02 am

cost nuthen I took the top off it and soaked it in contact cleaner :lol: ... the cheap way but it norm cleans them up. but yea try getting ecu codes then after that reset everything.
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Postby sergei » Mon Jun 28, 2004 1:42 am

sounds like faulty TPS - throtlle position sensor ...
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Postby LvnLver » Mon Jun 28, 2004 11:36 pm

hi there, if it is the throttle body sensor how can i get that checked and how can i get it fixed ??? Is it a major problem?

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Postby LvnLver » Mon Jun 28, 2004 11:37 pm

position*
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Postby Al » Mon Jun 28, 2004 11:41 pm

Instead of guessing it would be much simpler to go pull some codes from your engine. Then when u have codes do a search as to what it means.
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Postby LvnLver » Tue Jun 29, 2004 11:00 pm

I got it checked my boosted performance and the only problem they found out was that it was running rich and that was the only problem!

Do you guys know of any good trust worthy places were i can go and get the computer reading checked out, because i took my car to boosted performance and when i got my car back it wouldnt go into reverse, that was after the dude took it for a drive :x
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Postby event2 » Tue Jun 29, 2004 11:15 pm

go to a autosparky they will find the problam and fix it. u might not get a code from the computer. computers codes can lie sum times
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Postby matt dunn » Tue Jun 29, 2004 11:53 pm

AceSniper wrote:fuel pump relay?

A problem I had afew weeks ago (i couldnt get over 2000rpm an it ran like crap!!) two capaciters in the ecu were leaking, put two new ones in an it was fine.


Was that on a toyota ecu? Sound more like a mitsi problem.
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Postby Al » Wed Jun 30, 2004 12:04 am

event2 wrote:computers codes can lie sum times

they only lie when you fool them yourself :wink:
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Postby sergei » Wed Jun 30, 2004 12:54 am

some times TPS problems do not show up on the diagnostics, eg: faulty IDL switch.... you can use a volt-meter (multimeter) to check TPS, with ignition on, measure the voltage between pin 2 and GND with throttle closed, it should be ~0.5v (actually if its not the 0.5 volts then you should adjust the TPS to position where you get it), then open the throttle slowly, the voltage should change (increase?) smoothly without erratic changes of voltage
measure continuity between pin 3 and GND (or voltage between pin 1 and 3) it should toggle (change from open to closed circuit) if you move the throttle on a small angle, and should stay same no matter how wide you open it...
I wrote this from my head so dont quote me exaclty what should happen (ie increase or decrease of voltage or open or closed circuit) and thats doesnt matter anyway, as long as changes follow a pattern...
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Postby matt dunn » Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:17 am

[quote="sergei"]some times TPS problems do not show up on the diagnostics, eg: faulty IDL switch....[ quote]

That's because the tps wont be faulty, it's just out of adjustment. The computer cannot pick up things that are out of adjustment only things that are actually faulty.
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Postby AceSniper » Wed Jun 30, 2004 2:34 pm

matt dunn wrote:
AceSniper wrote:fuel pump relay?

A problem I had afew weeks ago (i couldnt get over 2000rpm an it ran like crap!!) two capaciters in the ecu were leaking, put two new ones in an it was fine.


Was that on a toyota ecu? Sound more like a mitsi problem.


factory toy ecu, I also borrowed a 2nd one to try... and that also had the same two caps leaking, they were both prefacelift ecu's the facelift ecu I have the caps are fine
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Postby LvnLver » Thu Jul 01, 2004 3:09 pm

cheers people for all the feedback, so it could either be the leaking capacitor or my tpc needs ajusting, i will probably take my car to a autosparky in the weekend and get it checked as it is getting worse now, well thats how it feels........
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Postby AceSniper » Thu Jul 01, 2004 5:33 pm

the cap is prolly a small chance on the newer AE111

But yea could be TPS, just a matter of testing stuff
Last edited by AceSniper on Sun Jul 04, 2004 11:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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