Electronic VVT / VVT-i Controllers Do they exist?

[Inane]

I've seen a couple of hondas with Electronic VTEC controllers, and I'm wondering if the same thing exists for VVT-i?

also, anyone know anywhere UI can get any information about caldina GTT ECU's ??

[AceSniper]

you can... but ya may aswell just use a switch, or a rpm switch rather than pay a ton for the same crap

[PRYMORTAL]

ace snipers right might as well run a switch not to menchion not many people cant install them right & tune them well (for toyotas), they only adjust the RPM that the VVT/VVT-i goes on and the fuel.
and for $400+ dollars u can buy a link which would give far better gains

[Inane]

anyone got a link to who sells Link?

[Inane]

heh, link suck. looks like they dont have a suitable engine management system for my car.

[PRYMORTAL]

try lookin at mo-tec? or wolf 3d and all those?

[mister2]

heh, link suck. looks like they dont have a suitable engine management system for my car.

just because they dont have a 'plug-in' system doesnt mean they dont have a computer that will run your car... it will just be wire-in. dont be a meat.

cheers

nick

[Inane]

I wont argue the point,

how about you argue with Ian from Link-electro.co.nz I believe they are the nz HQ for link computers?


(Id love to be under an incorrect assuption in this situation, as I'd would like to be able to get a link computer.)

[RedMist]

This thread has gone more than a little off topic. The original post was in regards to controlling VVTi, now the guy is being pointed to an aftermarket ECU which still won't control VVTi.
VTEC controllers are a simple switch, as are most external triggers from aftermarket ECU's. You might be able to use a stepper motor control, but to find an ECU with two stepper motor controllers (one for idle) is rare. This may not even work as I don't know what signal the VVTi solinoid recieves.
A simple switch won't work as VVTi is variable and all you'll do is loose power. I'd leave it stock unless your planning on putting at least a couple of thousand into engine development and a few thousand more into an aftermarket ECU (or 5k more if your going MOTEC).

[RedMist]

In regards to a link computer working in your car, a wire in solution will most certainly work. Link just may not have a plug in solution for your car. You might want to have a look at the Link Plus, it'll work with the 24 tooth trigger in your car. Perhaps you just pissed them off.

Link Electro in Christchurch is the one and only Link. They design and manufacture all the boards on site.

[anthonym]

A couple of things: Caldina GT-Ts don't have vvt or vvt-i. And a Link cannot do sequential injection and therefore, AFAIK, cannot control direct fire ignition which the GT-T does have. You'd need a Link plus and if your'e spending that much you may as well do it properly and get a MoTeC IMO .

[Inane]

except getting a motec will cost me around $8k all up as I have a tiptronic GTT and they havent done one before...

I think I'll go for a link plus...

[fivebob]

except getting a motec will cost me around $8k all up as I have a tiptronic GTT and they havent done one before...

I think I'll go for a link plus...

So will a Link plus cost you $6600? as the difference in price between the base units is only $1400.

[Dell'Orto]

except getting a motec will cost me around $8k all up as I have a tiptronic GTT and they havent done one before...

I think I'll go for a link plus...

So will a Link plus cost you $6600? as the difference in price between the base units is only $1400.

Only $1400 pocket change!

[anthonym]

except getting a motec will cost me around $8k all up as I have a tiptronic GTT and they havent done one before...

I think I'll go for a link plus...

Who's "they"? If you install a MoTeC as a piggyback system it won't affect any of the stock systems at all. The stock ECU plays nicely in terms of sharing the key sensors (and is the only aftermarket ECU that will, AFAIK, will a Link plus interface with the stock crank angle and cam position sensors?).

[Dell'Orto]

except getting a motec will cost me around $8k all up as I have a tiptronic GTT and they havent done one before...

I think I'll go for a link plus...

Who's "they"? If you install a MoTeC as a piggyback system it won't affect any of the stock systems at all. The stock ECU plays nicely in terms of sharing the key sensors (and is the only aftermarket ECU that will, AFAIK, will a Link plus interface with the stock crank angle and cam position sensors?).

I assume it would...even though I only have a poxy gen 2 motor, I didn't have to change any sensors at all. The whole thing that Link pushes is the ability to work with all the stock sensors.

[Inane]

I got quoted that from turbovehicles.co.nz anyone suggest any other motec installers?

[fivebob]

except getting a motec will cost me around $8k all up as I have a tiptronic GTT and they havent done one before...

I think I'll go for a link plus...

So will a Link plus cost you $6600? as the difference in price between the base units is only $1400.

Only $1400 pocket change!

Precisely correct, though I suspect you were trying to be sarcastic

The $1400 difference (I could get it cheaper than that but I was quoting retail) is nothing when you compare it to the cost of a blown motor and would hardly cover the install costs, let alone the cost of the motor and the inconvenience of not having your car. Not that I'm saying using a Link will result in a blown motor, just that the chances are greater.

Nor indeed does it compare to the cost of the quoted complete install. My point was, are people charging $6600 to install a Link Plus? I doubt it as they wouldn't get much business, so the $8000 for a Motec install is either the installer getting greedy, or allowing far more time than is necessary because they've never seen a GT-T before and have no idea what's involved. While the cost of the Motec is a greater % of the initial total, the rest of the install should be the same. What's more the Motec will not devalue, not that you'd ever sell it as it's flexible enough to run most features and firmware upgrades are free and user installable.

BTW how is the Link Plus at interfacing to the transmission for shift points etc or running large, low impedance, injectors at idle?

Perhaps you can tell me how I can insert the RPM or MAP points in so I can control the engine properly when there is a large volumetric efficiency change or a point in the map, like idle, where transition is adversely affected by the points around it? Or indeed how to set end of injection timing so I don't waste fuel? I've downloaded the software but I can't seem to find these, IMHO necessary, features.

Actually I could go on listing the features that the Link doesn't have, there are many, but that just goes to prove you get what you pay for I suppose, and if you're prepared to live with these deficiencies then there is nothing wrong with the Link

Sarcasm aside, if your budget only extends to a Link Plus and you only want to run a mildly modified engine, then I will admit that that's better than running the stock ECU. However, if your goals are more lofty (or may be so in the future) then save the extra money and buy a Motec, you'll never regret it, and it may well turn out cheaper in the long run.

The problem is that people on this board have a very short term view of things, especially when it comes to spending money. Given the average age that is to be expected, I’m just trying to pass on the benefit of what I’ve learnt over the years, and that is that cost is the last thing you should consider when playing with high performance engines, and if what you need to do the job is beyond your budget, then you should save up and not accept something that will not do the job properly. It will just end up costing you more in both real money terms and the frustration of having to the job properly the second time around. If I hadn’t wasted money in the past on “cheap” solutions I’d be able to afford that 288 GTO I want

[Dell'Orto]

except getting a motec will cost me around $8k all up as I have a tiptronic GTT and they havent done one before...

I think I'll go for a link plus...

So will a Link plus cost you $6600? as the difference in price between the base units is only $1400.

Only $1400 pocket change!

Precisely correct, though I suspect you were trying to be sarcastic

The $1400 difference (I could get it cheaper than that but I was quoting retail) is nothing when you compare it to the cost of a blown motor and would hardly cover the install costs, let alone the cost of the motor and the inconvenience of not having your car. Not that I'm saying using a Link will result in a blown motor, just that the chances are greater.

Nor indeed does it compare to the cost of the quoted complete install. My point was, are people charging $6600 to install a Link Plus? I doubt it as they wouldn't get much business, so the $8000 for a Motec install is either the installer getting greedy, or allowing far more time than is necessary because they've never seen a GT-T before and have no idea what's involved. While the cost of the Motec is a greater % of the initial total, the rest of the install should be the same. What's more the Motec will not devalue, not that you'd ever sell it as it's flexible enough to run most features and firmware upgrades are free and user installable.

BTW how is the Link Plus at interfacing to the transmission for shift points etc or running large, low impedance, injectors at idle?

Perhaps you can tell me how I can insert the RPM or MAP points in so I can control the engine properly when there is a large volumetric efficiency change or a point in the map, like idle, where transition is adversely affected by the points around it? Or indeed how to set end of injection timing so I don't waste fuel? I've downloaded the software but I can't seem to find these, IMHO necessary, features.

Actually I could go on listing the features that the Link doesn't have, there are many, but that just goes to prove you get what you pay for I suppose, and if you're prepared to live with these deficiencies then there is nothing wrong with the Link

I would, but I dont have the technical knowledge The LinkPlus is well featured for the cost, which leads us to...

Sarcasm aside, if your budget only extends to a Link Plus and you only want to run a mildly modified engine, then I will admit that that's better than running the stock ECU. However, if your goals are more lofty (or may be so in the future) then save the extra money and buy a Motec, you'll never regret it, and it may well turn out cheaper in the long run.

For sure, and if I was going to keep my MR2 and aim for high 400hp, I'd definately bin the Link, and move on to something far better, but seeing as how I was only ever aiming for 300ish hp, and didn't really have long term plans there was no point forking out $6k (some of us poor unfortunates can't get trade ) for the ECU, then install.

The problem is that people on this board have a very short term view of things, especially when it comes to spending money. Given the average age that is to be expected, I’m just trying to pass on the benefit of what I’ve learnt over the years, and that is that cost is the last thing you should consider when playing with high performance engines, and if what you need to do the job is beyond your budget, then you should save up and not accept something that will not do the job properly. It will just end up costing you more in both real money terms and the frustration of having to the job properly the second time around. If I hadn’t wasted money in the past on “cheap” solutions I’d be able to afford that 288 GTO I want

You're exactly right there, and I'm willing to bet alot of us will still ignore your advice and learn by our mistakes...bet you didn't listen to your (treading carefully here )elders either

Dont you have a 308 anyway? albeit it reshaped?

[Al]

Dont you have a 308 anyway? albeit it reshaped?

Dude a 308 to a 288gto is like what a formula ford is to a F1 car....