starting problems (4AGZE)

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starting problems (4AGZE)

Postby rollaholic » Mon Jul 26, 2004 7:52 pm

hi all, i recently bought a rolla with a 4AGZE transplant... im pretty sure the engine is from an AW11 MR2, though i was told it was from an AE101 GTZ. its being run by a link, and it has some real issues starting from cold. the weird thing is, it will start first pop all day once its started the first time, and a booster pack starts it first go as well. the battery is fine, i've replaced the (incorrect) plugs with correct ones, but it still has this problem.

the car cranks normally off the starter, but it just wont catch. ignition is via a twin coil system, i havent checked the HT leads yet but the car runs normally once its going so i dont think they are a problem.

the car used to stall quite a bit when cold as well, with idling problems - however i fixed this by adjusting the throttle cable a little, which was previously wound right down.

i've been driving it daily, and it went away for a few weeks (ie started by itself in the mornings) but the last few days its come back, not sure if this is connected to the colder mornings?

my gut feeling is there is an earthing problem somewhere, perhaps with the link, but i cant understand why its only an issue when its cold - and i understand even less why the boosterpack helps when the battery is A ok... any suggestions? the links earth is to the gearbox as far as i can tell, apparently they have problems with controlling injector pulsing if not well earthed, i was planning to move the earth to the block, but it seems unlikely to make a difference...

thanks for any help!
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Postby Monsterbishi » Mon Jul 26, 2004 9:25 pm

is it being run by just a standard Link ecu, not a linkplus? if so it probably doesn't have any kinda of cold start compensation, or even coolant temp sensors hooked up for that matter.

The ecu's probably setup to run whilst warm, so cold starting will always be an issue.
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Postby Fred » Mon Jul 26, 2004 10:04 pm

my gtz does the same thing its been alright for the time ive owned it but when it gets colder it just wont frikin start. my mate bazda had the same problem with his but got the ignition wiring replaced as apparantley they deteriate and cant handle the current when cold or something. ask bazda about it, im hoping to get mine fixed 2mro. let u knw how it goes
White Trueno ae92, 4agte
172kw atw and as bazda put it "lowest reading dyno in auckland"
http://toyspeed.blakjak.net/profiles/profile.php?id=672
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2124212/1

Black and Gold Trueno ae92, 4agze
14.6@152 (hmmm thats a .69)
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2160441
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Postby rollaholic » Mon Jul 26, 2004 10:53 pm

maybe i should check the HTs afterall then, yeah do let me know how you get on with that!

it is just a standard link, maybe i just need to wire another battery in series permanently! hah...
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Postby matt dunn » Tue Jul 27, 2004 12:29 am

Our race car had the same problems with link ecu. Wont fire when cold but you'll find if you push start it 1 metre is will fire sweet as.

Std toyota ecu's also suffer from this some times.

The problem is the ign feed to the link ECU has too much voltage drop.
The Toyota starter motors are so good that they will wind over fine with a battery that is a bit week. The links require good voltage of above 10V while cranking.

To fix this either buy a bigger battery,
OR
Re-wire the ign feed to the link ecu through a relay straight from the battery to make sure you get good voltage.

This WILL be your problem.


And by the way if the car runs multi coil it will definatly not be a MR2 motor a they still had distributors.

Matt
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Postby rollaholic » Tue Jul 27, 2004 8:32 am

hey thanks for that matt, think i'll have to go see my link guy for the re-wiring though - its probably a bit beyond my meagre electrical skills.

the reason i think the engine came from an MR2 is because the writing on the rocker cover is upside down (ie the engine has been turned 180 degrees in the engine bay) yet the exhaust manifold is still on the front most side of the head. im pretty sure the old owner said the twin coil had been added.
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Postby Fred » Wed Jul 28, 2004 5:22 pm

yea matt's got it right, went to see an auto electrician yesterday and all they gta do is stick a relay in there somewhere to help draw the current. quoted me $73 a bit heavy considering the price for a relay is gna be a few bucks.
White Trueno ae92, 4agte
172kw atw and as bazda put it "lowest reading dyno in auckland"
http://toyspeed.blakjak.net/profiles/profile.php?id=672
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2124212/1

Black and Gold Trueno ae92, 4agze
14.6@152 (hmmm thats a .69)
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2160441
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Postby Monsterbishi » Wed Jul 28, 2004 5:46 pm

Fred wrote:yea matt's got it right, went to see an auto electrician yesterday and all they gta do is stick a relay in there somewhere to help draw the current. quoted me $73 a bit heavy considering the price for a relay is gna be a few bucks.


I'd smile at $73, auto sparkys can charge huge amounts for what seem like small problems, it's all in the labour cost...
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Postby Fred » Wed Jul 28, 2004 7:56 pm

i guess il be really smiling then cause knw sum1 who gna do it themselves.
White Trueno ae92, 4agte
172kw atw and as bazda put it "lowest reading dyno in auckland"
http://toyspeed.blakjak.net/profiles/profile.php?id=672
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2124212/1

Black and Gold Trueno ae92, 4agze
14.6@152 (hmmm thats a .69)
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2160441
User avatar
Fred
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Posts: 295
Joined: Thu Mar 06, 2003 4:21 pm
Location: Wellington


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