Extractors

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Extractors

Postby minijrocks » Sun Nov 14, 2004 8:26 pm

Hi, is it worth getting extractors for an ae101, is it really gonna make a startling difference (without an exhaust) and just add wank factor "yeh i got extractors" or should i just not waste my money and stick with standard car? also would getting an exhaust while doing extractors be a better and possibly cheaper deal? (also are there like, bulk made extractors?

also what kinda lumpy cams can you get for ae101's? just for the wank idle factor again :twisted:
Last edited by minijrocks on Sun Nov 14, 2004 8:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby vvega » Sun Nov 14, 2004 8:46 pm

were working on a bolt on secondry pipe at the moment
while the stock extractors are quite good the over crossmember pipe is like farting though a straw

ill let you knwo when we get em working should be eazy to attach as well

driveway type job :D

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Re: Extractors

Postby Dr-X » Sun Nov 14, 2004 8:54 pm

minijrocks wrote:also what kinda lumpy cams can you get for ae101's? just for the wank idle factor again :twisted:


Small engines with a rough idle just sound like there'they're not looked after. It's not cool. It's not even wank factor, it's idiot factor.
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Re: Extractors

Postby vvega » Sun Nov 14, 2004 8:56 pm

Dr-X wrote:
minijrocks wrote:also what kinda lumpy cams can you get for ae101's? just for the wank idle factor again :twisted:


Small engines with a rough idle just sound like there'they're not looked after. It's not cool. It's not even wank factor, it's idiot factor.


you really dont know shit do you
if you cant tell a highly tuned cammed engine from a ruf idleing old shitta
you realy dont qualifie to make any such comment



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Postby Mr Revhead » Mon Nov 15, 2004 10:51 am

like farting though a straw


:lol: :lol:
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Postby AceSniper » Mon Nov 15, 2004 10:59 am

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Postby Disco » Mon Nov 15, 2004 11:44 am

Dude, if you want a rough idling 20v just build yourself a VVT switch and turn VVT on when you idle, they sound pretty mean...

I've been told that you can expect to pay pretty big bikkies for headers that are better than the factory 20v ones, in other words it's not really worth doing...

I could be wrong, just sharing my view.
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Postby Lanius » Mon Nov 15, 2004 11:59 am

Getting the cams done is fairly keen. Plenty of other simpler mods to do before you get to cams. If you're after "wank factor" or attention, just get your exhaust done and leave it at that. Mild improvement in performance, and will get the looks. Just for goodness sake, make sure you get enough resonation so it doesn't sound so horribly raspy like so many 20v's and GTZ's do.

If you're after serious performance improvements, then go for the extractors / exhaust / cams (will be expensive on a 20v I think ... ) / intake etc. Will cost you big money to get everything done properly.

Yes it would be cheaper to get the headers and exhaust done at the same time, more from the labour point of view than the parts. Same as when you get the cams done ... get other things done as well while the head is off the engine. Might as well get your gaskets, filters, rings etc all replaced too.
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Postby TRD Man » Mon Nov 15, 2004 12:41 pm

Value of the extractors/headers depends on their design.
We sell a locally made set that produces about 8Kw gain on a std silvertop engine. With a price of only $450 that's good value.
Other sets which may not produce the same gains are of neglible value regardless of cost.
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Postby minijrocks » Mon Nov 15, 2004 2:23 pm

i want more of a nice sounding motor sound if you know what i mean, not some screaming bore thing which will just annoy me every gear, maybe like a 2" with a soft deep sound. anyone achieved this?
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Postby Mr Revhead » Mon Nov 15, 2004 2:28 pm

just make sure you use a big resonater, and dont go using anything over 2.5". also beware of bigbore mufflers, most are just shiney pieces of crap.
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Postby CozmoNz » Mon Nov 15, 2004 3:59 pm

i gots me 2 and a quarter, 2 18" resinators, with an RPS Big bore muffler... thing...

i think it sounds quite nice, did gain a bit more high end, lost low end too though :(.

ask djsw20, hrt, chin or whoever else was there at the day, sounds good.

hrts absoutly owns mine for sound though, that turbie.... makes a hell of a difference.
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Postby vvega » Mon Nov 15, 2004 5:01 pm

minijrocks wrote:i want more of a nice sounding motor sound if you know what i mean, not some screaming bore thing which will just annoy me every gear, maybe like a 2" with a soft deep sound. anyone achieved this?


talk to 10k20v (ewan)
prolly one of the nicestr sounding 20v's ive herd

dont go over 2'1/4"
otherwisw it will start to boom

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Postby soopachargen » Mon Nov 15, 2004 5:17 pm

what size pipe does a standard 20v have??
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Postby AceSniper » Mon Nov 15, 2004 6:00 pm

seams to be around 2 1/4 give an take on bends :/ apart from that damn nasty 2-1 part
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Postby ants_ae92 » Wed Nov 17, 2004 11:04 am

Are the 20v standard extractors really that bad? I thought they had a fairly decent pipe size, with a good 4-2-1 design for midrange. Like vvega said the stock extractors are good, but the secondary pipes would be worth a look at.

Definitely stay away from those cannon style mufflers. The idea of a muffler being to muffle the sound? what sound dampening qualities does a cannon style muffler have? Sh*t all I'd say!
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Postby CozmoNz » Wed Nov 17, 2004 2:34 pm

means i can put a silencer in and get warrents :)
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Postby vvega » Thu Nov 18, 2004 9:50 pm

if you increase the diameter of the primarys you will need to shorten the overall lenght to bring the tuned point back down into the useable rev range
dont get into thinking that bigger will give you more flow were talking bout pulse tuning here not lamina flow
you need the pulses timed correctly to gain any horsepower

2 things you need to know
lenght of the primarys effectly gives you your width of tuned power
total lenght gives you you total peak rpm power spot

ther are may formulars avalible to get your tuned lenght correct but only dyno time and trials will give you your prefred primary lenght

hope that clears it up a little


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Postby TRDWGN » Thu Nov 18, 2004 10:07 pm

Im not interested in increasing the primaries or overall design of the factory headers, i just want to replace that final section (just after the 2 t o1 collector after the flexi's) which should have little adverse effect of the exhaust pulse as the gases are fully collected by this stage, you would be struggling to convince me that the last part of the factory headers was designed with best flow characteristics in mind!! Rather last minute make it fit logic!!....I am just trying to get a handle on the how different these local ones are to say a standard set of blacktop headers....
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Postby TRD Man » Fri Nov 19, 2004 1:02 am

TRDWGN wrote:Are the primaries on these local ones larger again than standard blacktop primaries?

Marginally , yes.
I have to restate that we supplied a completely standard silver top Levin for the dyno work and this is the car that produced the gains I've quoted.
We have supplied these to blacktop customers who've reported smaller gains which is to be expected, but gains none the less. I guess you could conclude from that, that bolting a set of std blacktop extractors on to a silvertop will produce some improvement as Vvega has stated. I have no data relating to this.

Vvega, the intellectual property is not mine to release. As you have stated, the design of the system - the length & diameter of each component, in association with other specs, is critical. That's why systems such as the one I sell, and, no doubt, the components you've produced have been created after extensive design/trial/fine tuning. Mass produced items generally don't cut the mustard and are often a waste of money.
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