Would this work? (blacktop over silver?)

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Postby soopachargen » Mon Nov 15, 2004 5:06 pm

he mentioned 8psi so im guessing he was talking about poopercharging,
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Postby Mr Revhead » Tue Nov 16, 2004 10:50 am

its all relative, the higher compression you have, the better off boost performance will be. 7.8 is a lot lower than id ever go!
and the vr4 isnt known for its low rev performance!!

if your gunna run low comp and make it up in boost, just think of when boost comes on.
using the aw11 pistons prob wont be that bad, but the ae101 ones will be better, they can still take over 15psi no worries so it wont be a slug!!

for a race car with a gearbox to suit running low comp and high boost itll be fine, but in a road car you cant keep it on boost all the time so if your too low in the comp itll get smoked by starlets!
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Postby matt dunn » Tue Nov 16, 2004 12:22 pm

kingcorolla wrote:jeez were is matt dunn on this topic? he runs a silvertop turbo with 204kw.. :?


Watching with great interest.

From what I worked out my car is about 7.9:1 comp ratio and has 18 - 19 psi of boost.
In the (neverending) search for more power I am looking at raising the comp ratio rather than raising the boost.
At 9 psi boost in the DX i think my blacktop carib would drag it off.

Matt
7AGTE - DX20VT - viewtopic.php?t=59733
Discussion - viewtopic.php?t=59751
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Postby kingcorolla » Tue Nov 16, 2004 2:01 pm

JT wrote:
jacko wrote:Gapless rings? how do you install or change them??????


As I understand it, they are actually 2 pieces. A top layer with a gap as normal and the second layer with the gap 180 degrees opposite.


this is the way normal piston rings operate. u gotta do the ring gaps before you install. But gapless rings "overlap inside themselves" to still allow for expansion. And compressing close to 100% charge, and 'aparently' still lubricate the bores. you install them just like normal rings.

back on topic, Revhead, when i say "rods if im rich" i was indicating aftermarket rods, or shot-peening etc.
It all comes down to how much boost you want, and how much you can afford.

Who cares about drivability. drop the comp and crank the BOOST BRA! :roll:
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Postby Mr Revhead » Tue Nov 16, 2004 2:04 pm

ah so you were talking mega $$$ theres a toyspeeder looking at off loading some atlantic rods at the mo.....

youll care bout drivability when granny in her disel starlet smokes you at the lights!! :lol:
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Postby CozmoNz » Tue Nov 16, 2004 2:54 pm

Yeh, well, i wanted high drivability, because the 20v is very nice to drive now, nice, enough accel to get around (even at half throttle), and boost would simply replace the vvt... cept with a much larger kick in the head, remember it will be pushing in that air ^_^ dosnt matter if its 1psi, it will STILL improve the torque movement X_X

and the torque... will be something amazing compared to the stock dyno chart... up down like a roller coaster (the stocker) ... instead it will soar up at around 2k rpm, and sit there... right until 7k rpm... (7000-7500 becomming redline).

and we all know :), power sells cars, torque wins races.
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Postby CozmoNz » Wed Nov 17, 2004 2:12 am

Indeed, but im not completely sure on how much to run, i was just asking the motion of blacktop engine... 10:1 compression, boost... etc
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Postby CozmoNz » Fri Nov 19, 2004 12:16 am

mate of mine in his sr20det ran 22psi for about 12 hours stright (boy racer friday night), boosting and boosting and boosting... (Gtir)

engine now blows blue smoke :).

what is with *pump up the boost* thing? thats just stupid, low boost high compression, car go fast, then car go really really fast rather than... car go very slow.. very very slow... car do wheelspins :)
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Postby Mr Revhead » Fri Nov 19, 2004 10:00 am

like i said, could do more.... but im not gunna say it will cause i dont want someone coming back to me with a melted piston and getting cranky at me!! all i know is gtz longblock can handle 18psi no sweat.
covering my ass you might say :wink:
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Postby Stealer Of Souls » Fri Nov 19, 2004 10:44 am

Someone should find EVLGTZ... I don't know if he's got the 20V head on yet... But he's got some good experience with turboed ZE capabilities... And he was planning to put on a 20V head.

I heard the 20V head water galleries don't match up perfectly with ZE blocks? Anyone confirm?

Personally I think keep the compression up would be the plan if you want driveability. And if you're going turbo then aim for about 10-14psi from a T28 or (if you've got $$$ to burn) a GT28.
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Postby vvega » Fri Nov 19, 2004 7:16 pm

in a 4age normally if you break a cambelt your valves wont hit
with teh 20v head your cutouts on the pistons are diffrent so it can hit if a cambelt breaks

normally it will not be a issue if you keep your cambelt changed as per factory spec

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