Well i was just driving into my drive and the car died, 2k in a kp60 starlet.
Here's what happens, you no your ignition has 4 settings
LOCK, acc, start and Ignition
now i can make the car run if i turn the key all the way round to Ignition so the car fires up and as soon as i let go of the key so it returns to the normal running position at "START" it dies. BUT if i physically hold the key on "Ignition" the car runs as normal except you have to hold the key !
so to sum it up the car isn't getting spark in the "START" position
So what should i be looking at to fix the problem
Thanks in andvance!
Cheers
James
2k Motor and running problem(please read)
Moderator: The Mod Squad
Check to make sure the wires from the ignition switch are still all attached, my mate had one fall off one time.
When you say it runs with the key held all the way round, do you mean with the starter still cranking?
if you have a multimeter make sure the switch is still putting out a feed on each output when it is meant to be. If not then just go down to your local wreckers and get another one- easy as to solder in.
if it is then your problem may lie elsewhere.
got an alarm/imobaliser at all?
When you say it runs with the key held all the way round, do you mean with the starter still cranking?
if you have a multimeter make sure the switch is still putting out a feed on each output when it is meant to be. If not then just go down to your local wreckers and get another one- easy as to solder in.
if it is then your problem may lie elsewhere.
got an alarm/imobaliser at all?
Of course it'll run with the starter motor, it doesn't have much of a choice!
Checked the basics?
Pull a lead off, get a spare plug, plug it in, ground it against the block and see if it sparks. If not, check dizzy, make sure the rotor/cap isn't cracked, and that the rotor spins when the engine turns over. They do? Check coil lead for cracks, check all connections to coil. Sweet as?
Lots of fuel in tank? Look at fuel filter (down beside motor, normally attached to firewall/chassis rail), is there fuel in it? Should be 2/3 or 3/4 full. No fuel? You've got no petrol in tank.
Got fuel? check fuel pump, take the fuel line going from pump to carb off, (make sure you disconnect coil, otherwise you'll have a flaming KP!) put a bit of hose from the outlet into a jar, turn car over, if jar fills with petrol, pump is good, if not, pump is buggered. Fuel ok?
Check carb float level. (little window on side of carb, can't remember if KPs have them?) No window? take air cleaner off, look down throat, turn throttle lever on carb, a fine fuel mist should come out of the barrel. Got mist? sweet. No mist? No fuel in carb, or blocked jets.. try another carb.
All good? Check oil level in motor. Shitloads on dispstick? Nice. No oil on dipstick? No oil in motor = motor seized. Got oil? sweet.
By now, if you've checked everything I've mentioned, there isn't much reason for the motor to not run. Try turning it over again, except get someone to take the oil cap off, and see if the valvetrain is moving when the motor is turning over.
Still no go? You may have to take the car to a mechanic. This might be a good excuse to spend $100 and get a 4K!
Anyway, HTH. Cheers!
Checked the basics?
Pull a lead off, get a spare plug, plug it in, ground it against the block and see if it sparks. If not, check dizzy, make sure the rotor/cap isn't cracked, and that the rotor spins when the engine turns over. They do? Check coil lead for cracks, check all connections to coil. Sweet as?
Lots of fuel in tank? Look at fuel filter (down beside motor, normally attached to firewall/chassis rail), is there fuel in it? Should be 2/3 or 3/4 full. No fuel? You've got no petrol in tank.
Got fuel? check fuel pump, take the fuel line going from pump to carb off, (make sure you disconnect coil, otherwise you'll have a flaming KP!) put a bit of hose from the outlet into a jar, turn car over, if jar fills with petrol, pump is good, if not, pump is buggered. Fuel ok?
Check carb float level. (little window on side of carb, can't remember if KPs have them?) No window? take air cleaner off, look down throat, turn throttle lever on carb, a fine fuel mist should come out of the barrel. Got mist? sweet. No mist? No fuel in carb, or blocked jets.. try another carb.
All good? Check oil level in motor. Shitloads on dispstick? Nice. No oil on dipstick? No oil in motor = motor seized. Got oil? sweet.
By now, if you've checked everything I've mentioned, there isn't much reason for the motor to not run. Try turning it over again, except get someone to take the oil cap off, and see if the valvetrain is moving when the motor is turning over.
Still no go? You may have to take the car to a mechanic. This might be a good excuse to spend $100 and get a 4K!
Anyway, HTH. Cheers!
Daily driver: Toyota RunX/Toyota Caldina
Ex: 2x AE101, 5x KP60, KP61, EP71, 3x KE70, KE72, AE70, AE82, 2x TE71, AE90, AE92, ST170, plus 11 Hondas, 12 Nissans, 6 Fords, 4 Mazdas, 3 Mitsis, an Isuzu and a Lada!
Ex: 2x AE101, 5x KP60, KP61, EP71, 3x KE70, KE72, AE70, AE82, 2x TE71, AE90, AE92, ST170, plus 11 Hondas, 12 Nissans, 6 Fords, 4 Mazdas, 3 Mitsis, an Isuzu and a Lada!
once the starter motor has cranked and motor has started you release the key a little so its between crank and normal running and starter motor stoped cranking the motor goes sweet accept you have to hold key slightly between "run" and "start/ignition" to keep it going
fuel,timing,compression, spark and air all good.
just can't keep constant spark
fuel,timing,compression, spark and air all good.
just can't keep constant spark
RS13 wrote:Of course it'll run with the starter motor, it doesn't have much of a choice!
Checked the basics?
Pull a lead off, get a spare plug, plug it in, ground it against the block and see if it sparks. If not, check dizzy, make sure the rotor/cap isn't cracked, and that the rotor spins when the engine turns over. They do? Check coil lead for cracks, check all connections to coil. Sweet as?
Lots of fuel in tank? Look at fuel filter (down beside motor, normally attached to firewall/chassis rail), is there fuel in it? Should be 2/3 or 3/4 full. No fuel? You've got no petrol in tank.
Got fuel? check fuel pump, take the fuel line going from pump to carb off, (make sure you disconnect coil, otherwise you'll have a flaming KP!) put a bit of hose from the outlet into a jar, turn car over, if jar fills with petrol, pump is good, if not, pump is buggered. Fuel ok?
Check carb float level. (little window on side of carb, can't remember if KPs have them?) No window? take air cleaner off, look down throat, turn throttle lever on carb, a fine fuel mist should come out of the barrel. Got mist? sweet. No mist? No fuel in carb, or blocked jets.. try another carb.
All good? Check oil level in motor. Shitloads on dispstick? Nice. No oil on dipstick? No oil in motor = motor seized. Got oil? sweet.
By now, if you've checked everything I've mentioned, there isn't much reason for the motor to not run. Try turning it over again, except get someone to take the oil cap off, and see if the valvetrain is moving when the motor is turning over.
Still no go? You may have to take the car to a mechanic. This might be a good excuse to spend $100 and get a 4K!
Anyway, HTH. Cheers!
haha i've got a 4k sitting right next to the car just want to get this problem fixed first
I know what it is!! I had this exact same problem with one of my KP60's!
I would turn the car over, the car would start with the starter motor engaged, but soon as you turn it off, the car would die. Its the ballast resistor on the firewall, the white porcelan block thingee, with a couple of wires going to it.. on mine, a wire had come off.
See, when you turn the car over, every accessory is bypassed, allowing all power to go to the starter motor. This is why everything turns off when you start your car, including the relay to the ballast resistor.. so when the key goes back to 'acc', it hits the dead resistor, and doesn't fire.
So, make sure its' connected properly, the wires to it have a habit of breaking after a while.
I would turn the car over, the car would start with the starter motor engaged, but soon as you turn it off, the car would die. Its the ballast resistor on the firewall, the white porcelan block thingee, with a couple of wires going to it.. on mine, a wire had come off.
See, when you turn the car over, every accessory is bypassed, allowing all power to go to the starter motor. This is why everything turns off when you start your car, including the relay to the ballast resistor.. so when the key goes back to 'acc', it hits the dead resistor, and doesn't fire.
So, make sure its' connected properly, the wires to it have a habit of breaking after a while.
Daily driver: Toyota RunX/Toyota Caldina
Ex: 2x AE101, 5x KP60, KP61, EP71, 3x KE70, KE72, AE70, AE82, 2x TE71, AE90, AE92, ST170, plus 11 Hondas, 12 Nissans, 6 Fords, 4 Mazdas, 3 Mitsis, an Isuzu and a Lada!
Ex: 2x AE101, 5x KP60, KP61, EP71, 3x KE70, KE72, AE70, AE82, 2x TE71, AE90, AE92, ST170, plus 11 Hondas, 12 Nissans, 6 Fords, 4 Mazdas, 3 Mitsis, an Isuzu and a Lada!
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kingcorolla
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Virtual Genocide
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ah dammint i was reading thru this topic screaming "ITS THE BALLAST RESISTOR"
but yeah, check the connections on to it, they don't take much to come off. I manage to pull one of every time i work on my engine
Do you have to crank your car much to get it started? if so i would replace it they're not very expensive.
but yeah, check the connections on to it, they don't take much to come off. I manage to pull one of every time i work on my engine
Do you have to crank your car much to get it started? if so i would replace it they're not very expensive.
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