toms trd thermostats

[AceSniper]

does anyone know what temp these open (the low temp ones)?
and whats a compairable product thats cheaper an available for a 20v silvertop?
cheers

[Mr Revhead]

TRD one is listed as opening 10-15 deg lower than stock, which will mean its around 70deg

[deaf_rattle]

is there any point in running a lower temp thermostat?

Surely the stock item is set for optimum running temp?

I was looking at running a lower temp thermostat in my 7mgte, but was advised by alot of people to run the stock one.

[TrouserFxGt]

yeah, I wonder too?

[TRD Man]

A TRD thermostat generally opens at 71oC. Like most of these TRD components they are made for installation in engines that are likely to endure extreme conditions i.e. sustained high revving as a race or rally engine might.
They're purpose is to improve reliability/longevity rather than outright performance.
Whether they're of any benefit in your road car depends largely on how you use it.

[RedMist]

I don't quite understand the theroy behind lowering the temp at which the thermostat opens. I would have thought that this would cause more damage to an engine with more thermal expansion/ contraction between its normal operating temperature and the closed thermostat temperature. A race engine you generally want to run reasonably hot, to ensure a complete burn of the fuel.

It would create even more damage cold starting, as the engine would take longer to get up to temperature.

As I said I still can't see a reason you would want to lower the temperature you close the thermostat.

[kingcorolla]

performance cooling system bro.



i also dont see the point.

[Mr Revhead]

they are not for everyday road use (well by my recomendation at least)

think about how hot your engine gets if you give it heaps.... like in a race situation. by opening the stat lower the overall temp is kept lower, or prevented from overheating.
i dont think it would suit every application, but i think it would suit some.
like any performance part, just cause its good in one situation doesnt mean its good in all

[RedMist]

Mr Revhead, that doesn't make much sence either. Your saying that if your cooling system doesn't work effectively, run a colder thermostat?
Your still going to go over your normal operating temperature. It'll just take slightly longer to get there.

A thermostat only speeds up the ability for you to warm your engine, or to keep it at temperature on a very cold day. By reducing the thermostat temp, your ensuring it won't warm correctly or you fall out of your operating or best HP temperature. If anything I would like a thermostat that operates at higher temperatures. Takes my engine less time to get to peak HP temp and keeps it there. It also means less thermal expansion contraciton when the race engine isn't having they shyte belted out of it.

[Mr Revhead]

no what i mean is in certain applications. a stat is no compensation for having a good cooling system!
like some race cars the engine will run hotter than normal.
so opening the stat early will help is keep from exceeding the best temp range. also some rules prevent you from modifying the cooling system.... not nessicarily here in nz.

i guess it all comes down to what you determine is your ideal temp range.
what the factory determines as the best range may not be whats best for a certain race car. again i dont recomend them for a road car.

[TRD Man]

To quote world renowned engine builder David Vizard.

" If you've got a racing engine, or one used for competition, then your maximum power will occur at an engine temperature of about 70oC.
Running at this temperature for a road car may be best for power, but it does have a few drawbacks. The first of these is that the oil won't get hot enough to dispurse combustion products which go down past the rings, and therefore, oil contamination is much more prominent. The other thing is that your heater won't work as efficiently as it will at the normal operating temperature of 90oC. These are the temperatures you need to aim for either a road car or racer: 70oC for competition, 90oC for road work."

These words were written in the late 70's & it may be that advancement in oil technology has taken care of the first issue.

[atmosports]

As above, yeap certain engines produce more power when run hotter/colder than usual. Probably not worth the dyno time & hassles of playing with it on a road car though as every last HP isn't too important for road use. Can be very handy in control classes though to play with, although you'll need to alter the fuel/ignition to suit on some cases. The man who posted above has been in the game long enough to know.

[RedMist]

In the end it's all about combustion chamber temperature. Your attempting to keep the combustion chamber hot enough to get a complete burn, but not hot enough to create pre-ignition.

Using water temperature to approximate combustion chamber temp isn't the best methodology. The water galleries are different in each engine, flow rates are also different which effects the amount of heat you can drag from the combustion chamber.

No offence but from what I know of Dave Visard he worked on BMC and old pushrod 8's in the 70's where combustion temperature would have needed to be lower as combustion chambers were more prone to detonation and the combustion chamber wasn't cooled as efficiently. Using 70 degrees across the board isn't a fair statement. Bruce, is the quote in regards to a specific engine? In regards to Dave stating that the oil will contaminate quicker, I think that would happen even with todays engines. I think he's referring to the evaporation point of fuel.

Atmosports has a better approximation. Some engines produce more engine when run hotter OR colder. It'll depend on any headwork, plugs, fuel air, CR, piston shape, CC shape, CC cooling efficiency and a tonne of other factors. Needless to say I'll not be putting a TRD thermostat in my engine.