***GOD DAMN FUSES***

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***GOD DAMN FUSES***

Postby AJz » Wed Feb 16, 2005 1:07 am

still having trouble with my fog lights.

After blowing too many "dome fuses" i hav given up wiring through ignition, ran a postive lead straight from the batt, and wired them as follows:

Image

i have a feeling that ill need another 15A fuse before the switch.

I tried the circuit above tonight and managed to blow the fuse again.
This is driving me nuts, would someone please explain to me what i need to do.
I had vtax :(
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Postby dskd » Wed Feb 16, 2005 7:26 am

what wattage r ur lights
IM NOT GETTING LESS HAIR IM GETTING MORE HEAD
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Postby dskd » Wed Feb 16, 2005 7:27 am

and u dont have a fuse on ur switch wire
IM NOT GETTING LESS HAIR IM GETTING MORE HEAD
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Postby solberg Fan » Wed Feb 16, 2005 9:02 am

Just thinking... im dead sure the parking lights have to be wired into that as well(for WOF reasons).
If so, just conect the signal for the relay from any wire that turns positive when the park lights are on, and in between that and the relay, put your switch in. That way both circuts are fused.

Thinking a bit more... Im not sure if they need to be turned off with full beam or when using driving lights.
Some one will know. :)
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Postby AJz » Wed Feb 16, 2005 9:31 am

dskd wrote:what wattage r ur lights


55w
I had vtax :(
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Postby Stealer Of Souls » Thu Feb 17, 2005 9:41 am

Well... that circuit should work...
55W lights draw 10A at full load...
So fuse shouldn't blow...
Foggies can be wired in any manner desired. Driving lights are the ones that must be wired to the high beams.
Max number of lights allow on a car...
4 High beams
2 Low beams
2 Fog lights...
So potentially, if you've got separate bulbs for high and low beam you can have up 8 lamps on when on high beam... Gotta love that light...

Back to the problem...
Don't need a fuse before switch, or at least shouldn't need a fuse there. The coil of the relay will only draw 150mA, and will die open circuit if something goes wrong.

The only reason that the fuse should blow is that something is shorting out...
Unplug 87, turn on the switch, if fuse blows, then a connection is incorrect at the relay. --> Check connections are correct. Pins 85 and 86 are the two on opposite sides of the relay, and are parallel to each other. Pins 30 and 87 are on opposite sides to each other but are orientated differently, one is spun arround 90 degrees.

If with 87 unplugged the fuse doesn't blow when switch is on then connection problem is between lights and relay. I would connect one light at a time to see which one makes the fuse blow. Then you can just check all the wiring...
If I get a chance I'll try to make a drawing to help out...
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Postby AJz » Thu Feb 17, 2005 12:28 pm

cheers for that, afta a bit of investigation, trial and error with a good supply of fuses, i found the problem, one of the lights is busted, and is shorting, toook it off and the other one works fine. Taking it back today. should have them up and running tonight

thanks guys
I had vtax :(
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Postby Stealer Of Souls » Fri Feb 18, 2005 8:14 am

Tell us how it goes...

And the moral of the story...
Buy Hella... You may pay twice the price, but the quality is undeniable. I've bought numerous bulbs and four extra lamps and never once had a problem.
Oh yeah... try Hella Cool Blues for the headlights. They're quite expensive, and seem to burn out a bit quicker than you're average headlight, but they are wonderful to use, and much better than the Narva eqv the Artic Whites.
Hella are also supposed to have released Cool Blue H3s for driving/fog lamps.. I'm just waiting to get some. Damn cashflow problems...
'86 AE85.5 Levin

I don't claim to know everything... That doesn't mean it isn't true....

Click here to see "My Black Hole"
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Postby AJz » Fri Feb 18, 2005 9:45 am

yea they work fine, cheers, just got the bulb replaced, all wired up properly thru a relay now.

as for the brighter bulbs, id like to do an h4 conversion on my lights and stick sum real bright ones in, the stock celica ones are alrite, but not that bright at all
I had vtax :(
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