mohinder's intros

[mr2_t]

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[Dell'Orto]

Pull the hose off your boost pressure sensor, and block it off

Rangy as it seems, it gets rid of the fuel cut, so as long as you keep it to 14psi max, it'll be fine (turbo will be the big restriction after that, fuel will be fine for a bit more)

[mr2_t]

Pull the hose off your boost pressure sensor, and block it off

Rangy as it seems, it gets rid of the fuel cut, so as long as you keep it to 14psi max, it'll be fine

Hmmm... couldnt this result in the turbo boosting itself to oblivion?
Of course this would result in the acquisition of a CT20b... , but in the interim I think I want to keep the ECU in the loop...

[Dell'Orto]

Not if your boost controller does its job it wont. All it does is make the stock boost gauge work and activates the fuel cut.

[mr2_t]

right
Any tips for setting it up - I assume its as simple as installing and then winding it open incrementally until you find the full boost level you want?

[Dell'Orto]

Not 100% sure, havent used one of the Turbosmart ones before...its a manual boost controller yeah?
You might want to look into doing a 3" exhaust before doing it, as that will increase boost anyway, and will make it a bit more efficient when you do turn up the boost.

[MrBob]

as has been said, get a 3" exhaust before playing with the boost. With a 3" exhaust boost will creep up to about 14psi anyway (in 3rd 4th 5th), due to the undersized wastegate on the ct26. Infact, the boost creep makes it quite hard to get decent boost control, especially with a bleed value, ie: bleeding it to 12psi in 2nd will probably result in 16psi in 3rd etc.. great top end tho

[Al]

Remember to disconnect the t/vsv.

Theres two hoses that come out of the actuator, one goes to back to the turbo and the other one shoots off somewhere else. Cut the later and plug up both ends. Then install your bleed valve *shudder* inbetween the hose from the actuator to the turbo

[mr2_t]

Remember to disconnect the t/vsv.

The T/VSV is essentially a factory bleed valve isnt it? Responsible for the lowered boost when the engine is started from cold?

Then install your bleed valve *shudder*

I think the Turbosmart item is more than just a boost tap - its "gated" - consists of a ball-bearing and spring, so that it only opens when the spring tension is exceeded by the air pressure - as opposed to a bleed that is permanently open.

Might look into the exhaust first though, cheers for the replies.

[Al]

Ahhh good stuff. I prefer an ebc (secondhand greddy profec b's can be had for around $300-$350) but a ball n spring bleeder isnt too bad.

[matt dunn]

If I was doing it I would play with the boost cut still working and get it set where i want it, usuallly so it will occasionally hit the boost cut but not all the time, then when it is all set up, disable the boost cut.

I do this with my link as i run close to the max boost it will take, and it hit the limiter so i run with it off, but have it on when i'm tuning or playing with the boost settings.

matt

[Al]

I found when playing with the boost before i disabled the boost cut that I could get ~12.5psi before it cut. So if you want 13-14psi you will need to make/buy and fcd or disable the BPS.

[mr2_t]

Many bleeding knuckles later... Fitted the turbosmart controller, I am now running a steady 12 psi, up from ~10 standard. Fuel cut is still there - TPS is still connected. This was an important bit of advice:

Remember to disconnect the t/vsv.

Didnt do this initially and the thing was boosting up to 15 PSI with the bleed completely shut. Anyway, I'm pleased with the mod, it spools up quicker, and the extra 2 PSI is certainly noticeable...

[Al]

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