Starlet KP diff..

[oem-r]

hey guys took my starlet out for a drive yesterday and..whilst reversing im pretty sure the diff blew up, cos it was making a grinding sound like syncros were buggered or something, and the sound is coming from where the diff is.

Anyone have an idea of how much for a replacement diff? and if a person with basic mechanical knowledge like me would know how to put it in??

i got told the diff in it now was a 5 speed lock diff.

cheers
Matt

[Dr-X]

and if a person with basic mechanical knowledge like me would know how to put it in??

i got told the diff in it now was a 5 speed lock diff.

5 speed lock diff? I'm not sure what you mean by 5 speed.

Does the car still go? Does it make the noises only at high speed, only at low speed, or always? Does it change/stop/increase when you turn?

Lock diffs will eventually blow - there's not really a lot you can do about that. They're not designed for that kind of strain (not to mention your axles and various other bits and pieces). If you have the right equipment, and you're keen enough, you should be able to change it yourself - it's not a huge job.

[RS13]

1. Jack car up, use axle stands.

2. Take wheels off, get under car, unbolt the 4 bolts connecting the driveshaft to the diff head. Get a (17mm or 19mm?) socket, and loosen the nut on the bottom of the diff housing, to drain oil into an icecream container or similar.

3. Let the handbrake off, if you haven't already. Remove brake drums by pulling, or tap with a hammer gently to loosen if they are stiff. A fine black powder will fall out as you take it off/hammer it, be careful, as this is asbestos, and IS poisonous.. ie. DON'T breathe it in! It may pay to get some brake cleaner to wet things down a little, so as to not let it blow around.

4. Once off, you will have in front of you, the inner workings of your drum brakes, and your axle. From memory, (its' been a while since I did a KP diff!) there are 4 bolts behind the axle flange, holding it on, I can't remember. If not, and you can't see anything obstructing the axle from coming out, or you've removed the bolts, pull firmly to remove axles, taking care so as to not damage the fluid seals.

5. With axles out, get back under the car, and remove the 6 or 8 bolts, holding the diff head to the diff housing. Once all bolts are removed, firmly pull diff head out of the housing. You may need to give it a good yank, to break the sealant. Your diff is out!

6. Reinstallation. Get some RTV or other silicone sealant, or a gasket if you have one, and spread around the mating surfaces on the new diffhead/housing. Put it in, bolt it back on. Reinstall axles, you'll have to wiggle them a bit to get them back into the splines in the diff. Reinstall brake drums, reattach driveshaft, make sure everything is tight. Remove plug from diff housing, get gear oil, and fill diff until it pours out of the side filler hole. DO NOT over fill. Get wheels back on, lower the car back down, operation complete.

7. Do m4d sk1dz.

[Dr-X]

It would be a good idea to determine first if the diff is in fact blown.

[RS13]

and if a person with basic mechanical knowledge like me would know how to put it in??

I was just answering that question.

[oem-r]

and if a person with basic mechanical knowledge like me would know how to put it in??

i got told the diff in it now was a 5 speed lock diff.

5 speed lock diff? I'm not sure what you mean by 5 speed.

Does the car still go? Does it make the noises only at high speed, only at low speed, or always? Does it change/stop/increase when you turn?

Lock diffs will eventually blow - there's not really a lot you can do about that. They're not designed for that kind of strain (not to mention your axles and various other bits and pieces). If you have the right equipment, and you're keen enough, you should be able to change it yourself - it's not a huge job.

Well I got told the diff was out of an 5 speed...not sure what car though?
the car still goes engine and everything is fine, but when you go to drive it..even moving slow..ie riding clutch, it starts tunring over and making a crunch...clunky sound..metal on metal sound. I havent tried driving faster cos i ddint wana fcuk anything else up.

[oem-r]

and if a person with basic mechanical knowledge like me would know how to put it in??

I was just answering that question.

thanks alof for tha detailed write up RS13!! much appareciated..anyone know how much a replacement starlet diff would go for?? desprately need one as i hate public transport!!

[wde_bdy]

You need to determine what diff you have first, an X code or U code. If you were told it was a 5 speed diff then it is likely to be a U code, which means KE30, KE70 centres will fit. Best way to tell is use a straight edge on the pinion flange and measure back to the mounting face on the diff. Compare to a KE70 etc, if the distance is less it is an X code. X code is only available in Starlets (normally 79-82 years), but can be swapped to U code if you shorten the driveshaft and find some Starlet U code axles. If you don't shorten the driveshaft you can do damage to the rear of your gearbox.

Callum

[RS13]

Heh, KP60 diffs are everywhere, just find someone wrecking one identical to yours, wreckers sell diffs for around $30 - $50 (plus gst), but if you find one being wrecked privately, you'd be looking at around $20, depending on the seller, lol.

[oem-r]

cheers, what are the differences between a KP60 and 61?? the engine code on mine is 4K-u..

[wde_bdy]

60 61 62 refers ONLY to engine size, despite the crap some people will try to feed you. What year and body style is it?. If its an 83-84 drop hatch KP61 then it will be U code and you can use a Corolla head, ratio will be different though.

Callum

[RS13]

As a side note, the "U" in 4K-U stands for universal emmissions gear. You'll notice a whole bunch of vaccum lines and units all over the motor, and as a matter of fact, you don't need most of them, I took the majority of them off my motor today.. runs much better.

If you plan to do the same, it takes AGES blocking the right hoses off and leaving the others alone, while trying to keep the car running! I had a hose off at one stage, the car wouldn't start without the choke! All sorted in the end though, well worth it, it drives so damn smoothly now.

[oem-r]

heh i dont think ill be wanting to start ripping wires out just yet..knowing me i wont be able to get it going again!

My starlets a 1983. 4door ..non bug eye so im guessing its a Kp61?
now if i could just find a diff and get somone to help me chuck it on

[oem-r]

Ok just wondering now as i told a mate about what had happened and he said it would be the axle that has gone??

what i want toknow is that if my diff was actually fcuked, would the car still be drivable?

can anyone explain what sounds happends when one of your axles have gone?

thanks and sorry for all the questions!

[Dr-X]

It's bloody hard to tell what's happened without pulling it all apart. It is certainly possible that you've broken an axle. Take it for a bit of a drive - I suspect that once you go around a corner or two it'll be undrivable - as things finally break right apart.

[wde_bdy]

Axle usually just leaves you with no drive without much if any noise, unless its LSD in which case you still have some drive. 99% chance it has damaged crownwheel and pinion and the crunching you hear is the damaged teeth trying to mesh.

Callum

[Dr-X]

I disagree - on a locker it's FAR more likely he's blown the head - the only reason the crownwheel and pinion would be damaged would be if he's got some bits of diff head in there.

Take it for a spin and see how far you get - you'll tell pretty quick what's wrong. May just be an axel (which is most likely with a lock diff, imho).

[Gx71man]

I disagree - on a locker it's FAR more likely he's blown the head - the only reason the crownwheel and pinion would be damaged would be if he's got some bits of diff head in there.

Take it for a spin and see how far you get - you'll tell pretty quick what's wrong. May just be an axel (which is most likely with a lock diff, imho).

I think Callums idear is the most probable.

[Dr-X]

Based on what? In my experience, it's incredibly unlikely the crownwheel an/or pinion gear gave out - I dont think I've ever seen it happen. Think about it - what's the weak link in a diff? Definately NOT the crownwheel and pinion gears.

[Gx71man]

I see What you mean, They are very strong But i have snapped or strectched a tooth on my r30, Dropping the clutch, roll backs.