lowering blocks vs reset springs

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lowering blocks vs reset springs

Postby TruenoBoy » Sat Apr 09, 2005 2:04 am

Hey what are the pros and cons of using both lowering blocks and gewtting the leaf reset?

Is one way better than the other?
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Postby evil_si » Sat Apr 09, 2005 2:22 am

you cant go as low with out both,
i currently run 3" reset springs and 3" blocks in my navara, bumpy ride, but low and handles like its on rails,
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lowering

Postby KE20 » Mon Apr 11, 2005 11:26 am

blocks are goodbut if you got power reseting the leaf is better, you get less tramp. unless you going to run tramp rods then go with blocks.
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Postby TygerTung » Mon Apr 11, 2005 1:11 pm

Best option is adding an extra leaf to stiffen it up, and getting it reset, so it's stiffer so it doesn't hit the bump stops all the time.
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Postby scotts2hot » Mon Apr 11, 2005 8:24 pm

This may sound stupid, but what does a lowering block look like and how does it attatch? I've never actually seen any but have access to tools and equipment to possibly make some.
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Postby Dr-X » Mon Apr 11, 2005 8:35 pm

Basically:

Image

Obviously, they only work on under-sprung leafs (unless you wanna raise your car! ). They're basically blocks with holes drilled in them for the u-bolts. Very simple, really, and incredibly expensive for what they are. That's why you just get the measurements and have an engineer make 'em up.
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Postby scotts2hot » Mon Apr 11, 2005 9:40 pm

Thanks, they should be no trouble to make.
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Postby Dr-X » Mon Apr 11, 2005 9:47 pm

Dont forget you need to make longer U-bolts too (duh, obvious, but easy to overlook).
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Postby wde_bdy » Mon Apr 11, 2005 9:49 pm

Remember, more than 50mm and you need cert. Some certifiers don't like big blocks so talk to one first, and may need to account for pinion angle change depending on how low you go.

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Postby TruenoBoy » Mon Apr 11, 2005 11:41 pm

cheers for the info

On the weekend I put 50mm blocks in the hilux and wound down the torsion bar to lower the front 50mm

Seems to give a nice ride (not too bumpy and handles heaps better) and I am happy with the hieght for now. When I get some 17's on it I may look at dropping it another inch by reseting the leaf springs and winding the front down another inch.

Would I need to get drop spindles for the front if I decide to wind the front down anymore than I have? They are supposed to improve the ride and handling when winding the torsion bar down arent they? good idea?

I plan on getting new shocks all round but for now the shocks seem fine. Probally look at getting some uprated kyb's as it is still a litle rolly in cornering and also if I go over a bit of of hollow or bump in the road it seems to float a litle on the upwards (if you can understand what I mean)
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Postby wde_bdy » Tue Apr 12, 2005 12:07 am

Drop spindles allow you to go lower without screwing all your geometry from winding down the torsions. Quite expensive option for the drop you get, but transfereable to later mods like airbagging.

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Postby Gx71man » Tue Apr 12, 2005 9:25 pm

What about flipping the center leaf?? That still passes a warrent, or is it not a good idear???
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Postby Dr-X » Tue Apr 12, 2005 9:51 pm

DEFINATELY wont pass a warrant. Is it a good idea? Well, that depends on your definition of a good idea, really.
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Postby Gx71man » Tue Apr 12, 2005 10:31 pm

Well how come my m8s dx wagon passed a warrent at a LTSA station?? That had the center leaf flipped
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Postby Dr-X » Tue Apr 12, 2005 10:36 pm

Because testing stations are useless - hence my bro's XA passed a testing station warrant with no front brakes :roll:
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Postby evil_si » Tue Apr 12, 2005 11:28 pm

Gx71man wrote:Well how come my m8s dx wagon passed a warrent at a LTSA station?? That had the center leaf flipped


because a flipped centre leaf isnt as noticable as flipping the entire leaf pack.

in the ke30 we had the leafs reset with 3" drop and an extra leaf added, cost us $230 the pair.
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Postby TygerTung » Wed Apr 13, 2005 3:06 am

Often if you flip a leaf, it can cause it to crack.
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Postby Santa'sBoostinSleigh » Tue Jun 14, 2005 9:54 pm

ok becuase im cabbage - can someone please explain a bit on the whole leaf spring lowering business
i do know of you use a lowering block of 50mm or more it must be certed - but thats no worry because the L200 will have to be certed anyway

yeah so i need some info on how to lower an L200 Ute please!
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Postby wde_bdy » Tue Jun 14, 2005 10:30 pm

Find out what your certifier will allow, some won't cert blocks bigger than 50mm anyway. Best option is reset leaves, lowering blocks and then you may need to plate and notch your chassis rail to retain suspension travel. If you want to still be able to load it up now and then the cheap option is airshocks BUT run independent airlines for each side so you don't get unwanted weight transfer (i.e. one side hits a bump so the air shifts and jacks up the other side). May need to be careful of pinion angle and driveshaft clearance.

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Postby Santa'sBoostinSleigh » Tue Jun 14, 2005 11:13 pm

cheers Callum,
but what the hell is reset leaf?
im stuck in my coiled springs train of thought!
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