Warrant prob - handbrake?

[skoty]

I've read through the manual but im yet to find out how to tighten (reduce handbrake leverage) on my rolla which had handbrake actuated rear discs. You are supposed to make adjustments at the brakes themselves rather than the handbrake bolt at the centre console. How do I rectify this problem as I aint gunna bother taking it in for a wof until its sorted?

[Lloyd]

Just adjust at the handbrake. Is the problem just too much travel in the handbrake lever?

[skoty]

The nut at the handbrake itself is wound to its maximum yet theres f**k loads of leverage and the car cant stay still! Ive just replaced the rear pads also. What next?

[Lloyd]

I thought they were supposed to be self adjusting. Loosen off the handbrake adjustment and pull the handbrake up and down 20 odd times and readjust it, see if that makes any difference. Might pay to check that the levers on the brakes are both working (ie, not a broken handbrake cable or something)

[skoty]

Well thats what I thought as when the pads wore, the handbrake was less effective as the foot brake/hand brake operated the calipers?

[Ae92typeX]

I was told a few years ago they are self adjusting, and, assuming not siezed, adjust when brake applied when going in reverse. Dunno if its right or not, but I know some other cars which operate similar, just I never took apart the rears on my 92 when I had it

[skoty]

Well... some of you guys must have experienced this problem when going for a warrant?

[Lloyd]

Nope, never been an issue. The cables can stretch to the point where they are too long also.

If backing it off and then pulling it on/off a heap of times and then readjusting it doesn't fix it then there are a few other ways of making it alright but probably wouldn't be recommended by VTNZ

[Lloyd]

Cant seem to find any decent pics, but if you cant get them to go how you want then you can climb under and find the little bracket that holds the cable in place just before the mechanism at the brake. Bend that bracket so that it tightens the cable a bit. Shouldn't need to move it much (do both sides remember) but it should give you a slightly better feel.

Failing that, take it in to somewhere to take a decent look at it

May or may not be able to adjust it where the cable goes from a single cable to splitting into 2. Would be up under the exhaust anyway, prick to get at.

Bracket on the left: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticle ... c1_big.jpg

[fangsport]

i presume you have wound the piston right back before fitting the new pads?

try winding it out until any excess travel is taken up. it would appear that the self-adjusting mechanism inside the calipers isn't operating properly.

most Toyota handbrake calipers operate in the same fashion, and should self adjust, perhaps you could also try winding the piston in and out several times before re-fitting, just to get the adjuster working freely.

[JasonZE]

Loosen the cable nut in console all the way out.
Remove rear wheels and calipers.
Wind the caliper pistons all the way in using proper tool or pliers screwdrivers etc.
Once wound in make sure the handbrake lever on the caliper is touching the little stopper pi if its not the cable might be siezed.
Now wind the caliper piston out until the caliper is a snug fit over the disc pads (ie you can slide the caliper back and foward once fitted).
This might take a few goes as you need to have the piston slots aligned with the little lug on the back of the disc pad. If it doesnt line up then wind piston back in and use a different starting piont to wind out so the slot ends up in the right place ( hard to explain) With caliper on you should be able to move the caliper arm and work the handbrake it should only mive a small amout then go hard and stop the disc from turning, you want to get both sides as close as possible.
Fit calipers and wheels but leave on jack.
Pump brake pedal a few times.
Now adjust lever nut until you have about 3-4 clicks and check wheels spin freely with habdbrake off.
If you pull up one click at a time you should feel both wheels start to lock up at the same time.
Sounds hard but usually takes me half an hour or less.
Also make sure the caliper slides (bit bolt goes through) are free and lubricated.

As for other comments about self adjusting handbrakes that only applies to drum brakes.
Good luck

[thaphatty]

warning: dodgy


*couput heaps of washers on underneath the nutgh*

[BZG Wagon]

I failed a warrant on it once. My cable was stretched - I just needed to replace it (it takes like 15 mins).

Otherwise: Im not sure about a supra, but on Mazda Familia's you can adjust the rear breaks to 'tighten' the handbreak by winding the thing which automatically adjusts the caliper (if that makes sense).

[Rob]

Does your car car have shoes that operate just for the handbrake, or is it caliper only?

If you have shoes then de-ajust your handbrake lever, completely then take the little bung out of the back of the backing plate and adjust up until the shoes are just touching the drum. Then adjust the lever to suit, 3-4 clicks is a mint brake

On the other hand.... If they operate by pads(which I've never adjusted before) Then maybe they like a mitsi. ie..Losen of brake then pump the pedal up til it fells mint then tighten brake again..

Also tey emery paper on the disk/drum, this also helps friction

[skoty]

warning: dodgy


*couput heaps of washers on underneath the nutgh*

haha, someone suggested that to me

[WeirdGTi16]

The correct procedure for adjusting handbrake on these models is very simple and have posted a number of times before on this forumn.
1.Back off adjustment nuts at handbrake lever - there are two top one locks bottom one. You will need a deep reach 10mm socket to do this.
2.Once backed right off pump brake pedal 3-4 times - this adjusts rear h/brake screw cam inside caliper.
3.Tighten adjusting nuts until h/brake lever pulls up 3 - 4 clicks.
If this does not work then look at pads,cables or adjusting mechanisms in rear calipers!

[skoty]

Like I said in my earlier post, the calipers operate both cable and hydraulic. They do not have drums inside the disc to operate just the hand brake like skylines by memory do.

JasonZE - I normally wind in the piston all the way to as far in the cylinder bore it can go so the caliper slides over easily, Dont do that in future, just make sure its wound in just enough so caliper firmly slides over just in case mechansim is seized? And before hand, winding in and out piston should loosen it up a bit?

[crispy'86]

Don't forget; disc rear when you fit new pads (this has to do with handbrake adjustment) you loosen the adjuster nut at the handbrake lever. AND disconnect the handbrake cable from the caliper, pump the brake pedal first to seat the pads against the disc (pump till the pedal goes hard that's the indication the piston is pressing the pad against the disc). Then refit the cables for the handbrake and adjust the handbrake.

In this case just disconnect the handbrake cables after de-adjusting the cable, pump pedal and refit and adjust the handbrake cable....
You'd be surprised how many people bring their car into work with wof rejects; one of them being handbrake and saying they fitted new pads for the wof.
Just a thought but the simplest things create the biggest headache