IMO, bends in the air intake are not really the devil they are made out to be. Why are you really concerned by one bend, Have you counted the number between the turbo and the throttle body??
Pipe joints between rubber and metal or plastic pipes are worse as the surface irregularities create far more turbulence than a smooth radiused 90 degree bend. Corrugated plastic intake pipes are pretty bad for turbulence as well. Also the resonance of plastic pipes causes disruption to airflow through a pipe.
Cold air boxes are very bulky and can be difficult to construct to make them properly sealed from the engine bay. Remember, if you can get your little finger under the side of your "cold air box" hot air can get in and stuff up what you have spent a weekend trying to stop.
What I'm basically saying is that in most cases, some sort of air re-direction either before the filter or after is going to be necessary in the quest of lower inlet temps, so don't worry about what you can't avoid and instead minimalise all other possible design flaws.
Get rid of as much flimsy pipe as possible, use a pod filter with a built in heat sheild (such as a Simota WS007) and make it all water tight with the largest radius bends throughout the system as possible, positioning the filter in the engine bay and an intake pipe to the front bumper. This way it will minimise water and dirt from getting all over the filter. If you have a flap style air flow meter ( silvertop 20V) this will be the most restrictive part of the intake. don't piss around with 4 inch pipe leading up to it, its opening is only a maximum of 50x50mm square.
