help!how should i spend 2k on my ae111

[bad20v]

hello thank you for the photo... now i might understand how the cold air box works..... it just stop the hot air from engine side .... how can i buy the metal pieces from.. what material r they....

Yeah, thats pretty much the basic's of it. I would go into the physic's of cold-air induction but it would take too long to explain.

Its made from 2.5mm aluminuim, available from any good engineering store. I got mine from Papakura Engineering, cost bout $35 for 1m x 1m sheet. Then you have to cut it, shape it and bend it yourself.

[AceSniper]

dont worry about 8mm leads, even the TRD replacements are 5mm, look at some egal or TRD leads will do the job if yours are on the worn side. Two resignators and a n/a muffler will also make it sound ggood with out been to loud. I know people have used another cross brace but when doing it make sure the studs are long enough to hold that plus the factory one... you will see a post in tech about 3point braces might help you. with your brakes it gets abit expensive to go passed getting front slotted rotors, while superstrut twin pot's can be fitted its abit of work... and abit dodgy, id just stick to good pads and sloted rotors.

[TIM13]

ok... i will try and ask someone know about the cold airbox face to face then.... thank you anyway....
beside.... i still wondering if i should buy the whiteline rear sway bar or not can somebody tell me the exact answer?
i have been ask around about the prices for parts to update my car.
the plan will as follow:
1.cold airbox with a good air filter
2. n/a muffle change with upgrade of piping...possiable to do the 2-1 section if have money left.
3. supension: front struct bar and rear sway bar; non adjable shock and good spring; ( alignment with good tyre shops) camber 1.0 front and 0.5rear.
4. brake pad and brade fliud change
5. service with change coolent
that is about it ......

[TRDWGN]

ok... i will try and ask someone know about the cold airbox face to face then.... thank you anyway....
beside.... i still wondering if i should buy the whiteline rear sway bar or not can somebody tell me the exact answer?
i have been ask around about the prices for parts to update my car.
the plan will as follow:
1.cold airbox with a good air filter
2. n/a muffle change with upgrade of piping...possiable to do the 2-1 section if have money left.
3. supension: front struct bar and rear sway bar; non adjable shock and good spring; ( alignment with good tyre shops) camber 1.0 front and 0.5rear.
4. brake pad and brade fliud change
5. service with change coolent
that is about it ......

The whiteline bar is possibly the cheapest and effective way of seriously increasing the turn in dynamics fo these cars, it was the first thing i did to my carib and i have never ever regretted it!

[Adamal]

Actually, you know what I'd do?

Don't touch your car for about 3 - 4 months. Give yourself some time to learn how to handle it bone stock. This will give you time to learn the basic limits of the car.
After that, THEN think of upgrading suspension so you can feel the difference for yourself. What you notice will be greater because you have had much more time clocked up on the basic side of things. You'll be able to point out the little differences in the handling.

[1598cc]

you wont get stuff all power for 2000 on a n/a engine.. best bet, save another 1000-2000 and turbo it. seriously.

[TIM13]

i will buy the whiteline rear sawy bar then....
i have been own the car for about 6months and save up my money in that time... been on the track and piha.... that is why i so wanna to upgrade the suspension....
just another question..... can i still have - camber without the adjustable supensions....

[Mr Revhead]

yes you can, but you need to buy new bolts for the front to allow the adjustment, sorry i forgot all about that.
i can supplky some for about $15 each, but they are a bitch to set up. i think THA SHZ from here can do you a deal on better ones

[bad20v]

you wont get stuff all power for 2000 on a n/a engine.. best bet, save another 1000-2000 and turbo it. seriously.

Ignore this guy. He knows about as much about engines as you can write on a 5 cent piece.

just another question..... can i still have - camber without the adjustable supensions....

Yes and no, camber can be adjusted in a wheel alignment but to get more than the factory allowance you will have to get adjustable camber top plates and/or accentric bolts for the hubs.

[AceSniper]

bolts for??
what sorta price is the whiteline bar?

[Mr Revhead]

to adjust ae101/111 front camber, you need different bolts. the top ones that bolt the strut to the hub one each side.
the stock bolts dont allow for much adjustment.
the bolts come with different size shanks

the whiteline bars start at around $260ish from me

[Distrb]

Yep, got one of the whiteline rear swaybars from revhead...

brilliant i say... well worth the money.

[bad20v]

to adjust ae101/111 front camber, you need different bolts. the top ones that bolt the strut to the hub one each side.
the stock bolts dont allow for much adjustment.
the bolts come with different size shanks

Right on the money.

[1598cc]

you wont get stuff all power for 2000 on a n/a engine.. best bet, save another 1000-2000 and turbo it. seriously.

Ignore this guy. He knows about as much about engines as you can write on a 5 cent piece.

dude.. you wouldnt hava clue. 2000 isnt going to get stuff engine gains on a n/a.. 2000 spent on suspension and itd handle like it was on rails.. ive turbod many cars; im quite sure that ive got a good understanding of engines

[EVLGTZ]

you wont get stuff all power for 2000 on a n/a engine.. best bet, save another 1000-2000 and turbo it. seriously.

Ignore this guy. He knows about as much about engines as you can write on a 5 cent piece.

dude.. you wouldnt hava clue. 2000 isnt going to get stuff engine gains on a n/a.. 2000 spent on suspension and itd handle like it was on rails.. ive turbod many cars; im quite sure that ive got a good understanding of engines

haha like the last one? ticking time bomb You know whats wrong with it yet? was it a blown head gasket or ya done a piston???

anyways if ya bothered to read his first post you'd see he wasn't after a big power increase his aim was "not a lot of hp.... impovement on existing standard only..."

[1598cc]

leaning towards piston. sold it now anyway for a massive loss

[bad20v]

anyways if ya bothered to read his first post you'd see he wasn't after a big power increase his aim was "not a lot of hp.... impovement on existing standard only..."

Cheers EVLGTZ for clearing that up.

haha like the last one? ticking time bomb You know whats wrong with it yet? was it a blown head gasket or ya done a piston???

Ummm? No need to comment on this one aye.

I think ive made my point.

[Dangerous_Driver]

you should sell it then combine the money you have with the money you make off the sale and by a rwd toyota!