Clutch- some suggestions would be good right about now!

[Sick Puppy]

Well, been booting it too much and I need a new clutch, probably within the next month or so... can anyone give me ballpark figures about cost and what to get to replace it?

I'm figuring get a heavy duty one and while I'm at it, get the flywheel lightened (may as well since its out), but would I be better off with a pucked clutch? I basically want overtaking power, no donuts or burnouts required!

How about where to go? BMT have offer on HD clutch for $256- any better ideas?
What about the flywheel?

Oh, its a 96 Curren with a 3S-GE engine- would help if y'all knew what car it was!

Thanks people!

[Akane]

If you want overtaking power, you have the wrong engine of choice. I am assuming that you always dump the clutch to get that bit of tire chirping to making you think that you're going really fast. Hence the short clutch life.

What I suggest is get a more power producing motor if you want more overtaking power. You know, it doesn't really take a big 6k rpm clutch dump to overtake those Hondas.

If you still insist that's the only way to drive your car. Then my suggestion is a 6 puck metallic clutch. It won't make you look more of a (boy)racer, instead it'll just make you look more like a fool.

[Lloyd]

Nothing wrong with standard clutches. If you've got a standard engine and you're having clutch problems then its probably due to the clutch just being worn out from use or due to abuse from driving techniques.

Might as well get an HD clutch from BNT if you're set on getting an HD one, probably not much more expensive than standard anyway.

No point going to puckyness, sure it grips but aren't the nicest things to use for driving around town, and as above there is no point unless you're having serious issues with clutch slipping

[Adamal]

Might I add, don't lighten your flywheel. Either just get it machined so the surface is flat, or buy a flywheel that was manufactured to be lighter than the stock item.
Lightened flywheels have been known to break under high RPM clutch dumps.

[Mr Revhead]

on a stock engine a puck type is pure wank factor. and a real pita.

a BNT hd clutch (exedy/daiken) will be fine

[Sick Puppy]

Oops, have given the wrong impression here- I don't do burnouts or high rev dumps- don't feel the need, or want the police attention.

However, when I am overtaking I *do* want to be on the wrong side of the road for as little time as possible, and if I have to spend a little more on a clutch to do that, then cool. As for 5/6 pucks, hey, you read about them, so why not ask?!

Having said that, thanks to all of you for your advice- its why I joined this club, as I have the questions that you guys can answer, and it is appreciated, so thanks a lot!

Will go with BMT clutch, and ask about a lightened flywheel.

Andrew

[Malcolm]

so long as it's not f*cked, a clutch will have little to no influence on your overtaking ability

[TrouserFxGt]

Do you slip the clutch when overtaking?

[Adamal]

and ask about a lightened flywheel.

Dude, did you not read what I said?

[Sick Puppy]

Clutch is starting to go- car's done 126km, and dunno when it was last replaced. It's been revving high when cold and when accelerating erm, 'enthusiastically' for the last month or so . Living on the hill for a while didn't help much- once had to stop on a *real* steep bit, and the smell of clutch dust is not a good one...

TrouserFXGT- overtake using 5-4-3-4-5 th gear and each time clutch up completely, basically listening to engine for when to change gear. Somebody please educate me if I'm cocking that up! Foot does not ride the clutch at all between changing gears or driving in general.

All_fours- Clutch is coming out now anyway, and since HD one is only $15 more (on special), why not? Don't worry, plenty of annoying questions re: exhaust headers, cold air boxes etc to come up soon- gotta take care of clutch first!

Adamal- my bad- I did read your response and took it on board, but it was lunchtime and I was in a hurry!
I am to either have it balanced, or buy a lighter one - any ideas over costs?

Thanks guys!

[RS13]

Dude, a clutch does not affect total power output on your stock motor.

Lightening your flywheel will improve acceleration, but at the expense of drivability, and safety, as they have been known to shatter from too much load too fast, or otherwise.

I've noticed personally, that when people go for heavy duty clutches on a stock/lightly modified motor, they tend to end up breaking other parts, as the clutch is no longer the weak (cheap!) link in the drivetrain.

Seeing as you got 126,000kms out of a factory job says a lot about your driving style; unless you feel it necessary, I'd just stick with the factory clutch and simply have the flywheel friction surface machined. If you were say, planning a moderate power increase, then maybe spend the extra money on the HD, but realise that next time you drop the clutch hard, it won't be the clutch that breaks!

I've personally had good results from running a heavier pressure plate with a stock clutch, still leaves some sort of "fuse" in the drivetrain while providing heavier clamping.

If you find that you have problems overtaking, I'd first off take a look at your driving technique, I mean, I could overtake just as easily in my old 1l KP60's as I could in my GTSt, you just do as the road code says, (100m clearance throughout the manoeuvre) and you'll be fine.

[Sick Puppy]

A good point about the weakest link RS13, and something I had thought about, but it always pays to ask a bunch of people who either have done it or have spoken to others who have. As for a lightened flywheel, forget I even mentioned it!

The clutch is on it's way out, so I'm basically asking what is there around this area that I can do to improve the performance of my car? Driveability on the street is important (no trackwork/ boy racer s***), but I've read enough about performance parts to be dangerous (e.g. I know they exist, but not how to apply them), and since this is a forum with a whole bunch of people doing stuff to their cars...

When you say 'moderate', how much? It's a 3S-GE, and all is stock for now, but am planning on exhaust and air intake upgrades soon (as I said earlier, more questions to come later) .

[Malcolm]

put a 3sgte in it

[RS13]

Well, with say, a pod filter and larger muffler/extractors, a stock clutch would easily handle that, but maybe only last 95,000km versus 100,000km if the motor was stock. At the end of the day, it comes down to the way you drive it.

If you want better performance in this area, then by all means, go for a heavy duty, but just consider the pros' and cons' of doing so, and in your case I personally believe there to be more cons' than pros'! Especially as you said, it isn't likely to be getting any track work at all.

A heavy duty clutch generally means a decline in drivability. Having a heavier pressure plate results in a stiffer clutch pedal, and a tougher clutch plate with quality friction pads results in less slipping, which results in jerkier takeoffs/gearchanges.. is having a tough clutch really worth all that, when 99% of your driving is well within a stock clutch's capability?

Unless you were planning more serious mods other than a pod and exhaust (say cams, higher compression, ECU etc) then I would just stick to a stock job.

[solberg Fan]

I agree wit RS13, Stick with the normal clutch. After driving my bmw with aftermarket clutch set up (bought it like that) for a month now, ive just about had it with it. Its a PAIN IN THE ASS.

[Adamal]

Adamal- my bad- I did read your response and took it on board, but it was lunchtime and I was in a hurry!
I am to either have it balanced, or buy a lighter one - any ideas over costs?

Cool, just lookin out for your saftey!

Not sure about costs of lightweight ones sorry. I think around the $600 mark? Machining your flywheel is perfectly safe, as it just evens out the surface.

[matt dunn]

(no trackwork/ boy racer s***),

There is only two reasons for getting a heavier clutch and you have stated you are going to do neither, so why bother?

[Dell'Orto]

Get a solid centre 3 puck brass button clutch


Nah for your application dude, a stocker will be fine. An uprated one will be pretty pointless, unless you're actually gonna give it a bit of a hiding.

[Sick Puppy]

Okay then guys, will stick to buying a stock clutch and getting the flywheel balanced- as I said before Matt D, it has to come out anyway, so had to ask about upgrades while I was at it...

Don't rate my driving enough yet to dabble with trackwork- can't afford it anyway, which rules out the 3S GTE as well All_Fours, though I'll call you if I win tonight

Next question Use Toyota clutch parts, or aftermarket (e.g. BNT)? Toyota dealerships will give the obvious answer, but what do you guys think?

[Mr Revhead]

toyota! see below

haha BNT ones are exedy/daiken oem replacment. not quite the same spec as genuine though.
dont think theres much difference in price either.