crappy alarm problems

[Santa'sBoostinSleigh]

Gidday
in my old car im trying to get sussed out to sell the alarm is being a be-arch.

its a AVS 5000i, professionally (if you can call them professionals) by some place in hamiltron a few years ago which has now gone bye byes.

the LED shit itself (for like 9 months) so i bitched straight to AVS and got sent a free one as well as an install manual (as requested my me )

ok numerous problems:

1) alarm re-arms itself after 1 min of un-arming unless you have the keys in the ignition and the ignition at 'on' or 'acc'.
= a real pain in the ass

2) remote lockign has crapped itself. i have pulled all the doors apart etc and when operating the 'lock/unlock' of the remote locking the little solenoid units make a noise like they are struggling to take a crap - "errrgerrrrrrrr" (for about 3 or 4 sec's)
no movement occurs from the solenoid

umm what else? cant remeber right now, but ill post when i do!

ta for any help
Andrew

[no_8wire]

you dont like the auto rearming?

[Santa'sBoostinSleigh]

the auto rearming has never locked the doors

its a pain cause it re arms even if you open the door - as soon as you take the keys out of the ignition it wants to re arm on you (after a minute)

[bad20v]

Ok, seeing as I have personally installed more than 50 of those AVS5000's, I can tell you that what you are experiencing are just common problems with this type of alarm system. You can remedy most of this by reprogramming the alarm brain by a series of remote clicks and ignition key turns as described in the 'Installation Manual for AVS installers'.
The reason why the door locks are playing up could be many things:
Check to see if its the door motors themselves by manually locking the doors. Or by pushing the auto-lock button on the drivers door panel, (shud be next to the window controls). If they are not working then you have a problem with the vehicles system not the alarms. If they are working fine, then there might be a problem with either the wire connections or the alarm brain itself. Check the drivers side kick panel for any unusual black wires connected to some coloured wires that maybe loose.
Sorry but without seeing the car in person it cant give you a definate answer/cure.

[bad20v]

Are you familiar with 'Big Noise Car Audio'? Maybe they could help. I think they are in your area.

[Santa'sBoostinSleigh]

thanks chief, i'll have a look when i get a chance

i have never herd of that croud of people, thanks anyway

[bad20v]

Sweet as. AVS5000's are great alarms, till they play up and can sometimes lock you out of your own vehicle! They have been upgraded about 5 times since first released on the market, coz of the faults in them. But they still have one of the lowest theft percentages around. Uniden even copied some of there technology for their latest range, especially with the use of the all black wiring loom. Uniden's used to be different colours which were easily identifiable to thieves.

[t0ms]

what sorta car? that would be my first question. establish what sort of central locking system it is...

problem 1... the programming on those things is nutso hard. take it to an AVS dealer and get them to do it... that way its there headache...

problem 2... establish what sort of central locking system it is (eg added motor,. negative trigger etc. Let me know what sort of car and i can tell ya.. if it is anything other than a mercedes or something like that with vacumn operated central locking a lock/unlock pulse of 3 seconds is too long and will have burnt out the motors.

tell me what car and ill let you know

cheers
tom

[Santa'sBoostinSleigh]

1991 hooooonda integra zxi

[bad20v]

1991 hooooonda integra zxi

No wonder its stuffed... its in a honda!!!!
Thats just asking for trouble. I had a couple of them with bad central locking even before I installed an alarm, the customers used to get pissed coz I couldnt hook up the alarm to the central lock. It wasnt my fault their central locking was broken, and they usually expected me to fix it for them for free. You can proberly guess my answer....

[Santa'sBoostinSleigh]

haha fair enuff

i was young and niaeve (sp?) when i brought it! lol

na the c/lock worked fine in the past!

[t0ms]

hondas dont have full locking factory... it will have a door motor added into the drivers door to allow the drivers side to lock when you press the button.

If the motor has crapped out (which occasionally happens.) then the locking wont work as the other doors wont lock till that one does.... take it to an alarm shop, auto sparky or get a motor yourself from one of the above places or repco (2 wire door motor they are called), and replace the faulty one in the drivers door.

the reason that hondas and nissans are like that is that they rely on you moving the lock yourself then the other doors which have motors follow suit. toyotas on the hand often have full locking and a switch on the door trim to allow you to lock the doors electronicaly. not all hondas/nissans are like that neither do all toy's have full locking just a general rule of thumb

so yes i would wager that the door motor added in the drivers door has given up the ghost.

cheers
tom

[Santa'sBoostinSleigh]

what a ledgend
will check it out when i get a chance
can i test by like giving the motor some power or something?

[t0ms]

thats what happens when you press lock. it gets power. coincidentaly when you press unlock. it gets power the other way

to test if it isnt the motor, grab a test light or multi meter and test each of the 2 wires (should be green and blue)

they should rest at ground (earth) and the go to 12 volts+ when they get a pulse. (one will be lock the other unlock)

if they are still pulsing properly but giving funny noises the gearing inside has probably stripped itself and will need to be replaced with a new motor..... (sounds like a small chainsaw inside the door when they are naffed)

also you said earlier that the pulse sounded like it was going for 3 seconds if this is the case..... DO NOT put a new motor in it till you have taken it to a shop and got them to adjust the pulse length timing from 3.5 seconds to 0.8 seconds (prgramming option)
the reason for this is that a 3.5 second pulse is designed for vacumn operated central locking and will burn out a normal motor style as it is too long...

cheers
tom

[simonlenihan]

Everything t0ms has said is correct.

I'm not sure if u can program out auto immobilisation on the AVS 5000, i dont think you can. Its just something you have to put up with.

[t0ms]

Everything t0ms has said is correct.

that would be why i do it for a living eh

[B ROWDY]

My stoopid alarm locks the doors after about 30secs, whether the key is in the ignition or not, havent learnt the hard way yet and am diligent bout taking the keys out everytime I turn the car off! And the alarm goes off whenever it feels like - usually the middle of the night or outside sleeping parents windows coughsorrykellycoughcough

Its such a piece of pies!

[t0ms]

what brand??? and what sort of sensors???

[B ROWDY]

I have no idea what brand, the stickers that were on the car said Tesor

[simonlenihan]

Everything t0ms has said is correct.

that would be why i do it for a living eh

As do i