ST215w caldina GTT ignition technical specs required.

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ST215w caldina GTT ignition technical specs required.

Postby TWSTD » Sat Jul 02, 2005 4:55 pm

Im hoping some of you knowledgeable and auto-sparkie types might be able to advise me on the following: Just in the process adding some semblance of tunability to the caldina, and need to know the following to set the jumpers on the new unit:

1) Ignition input pullup/pulldown select: I have 2 options here -
(a) ECU driver transistor pulled down to ground (for use when driver transistor connected to ground)
(b) ECU driver transistor pulled up to +ve rail (for use when driver transistor connected to +ve (5V or 12V - see below)).

2) Ignition output select: Once again 2 options -
(a) Output resistor connected to +5V
(b) Output resistor connected to +12v
This setting depends on the ignitor output signals. This helps the intercept replicate the amplitude of the origonal signal.

Sooo - im sure someone out there knows which compunation of these settings would suit the caldina setup :-)

Thanks in advance.
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Re: ST215w caldina GTT ignition technical specs required.

Postby fivebob » Sat Jul 02, 2005 11:58 pm

TWSTD wrote:1) Ignition input pullup/pulldown select: I have 2 options here -
(a) ECU driver transistor pulled down to ground (for use when driver transistor connected to ground)
(b) ECU driver transistor pulled up to +ve rail (for use when driver transistor connected to +ve (5V or 12V - see below)).

The answer to this question can be found in the ECU wiring diagram by looking at pins IGT1-IGT4, those funny symbols do actually mean something you know. See if you can figure it out for yourself :twisted:

Not exactly the answer you're looking for I know, but if your going to take on such tasks then you'd best become acquainted with what the wiring diagrams actually tell you besides what connects to what. If you can't figure it out, or aren't sure if you've go it right, then I'll answer the question, but you've got to try first, can't just spoon feed you the answers, you wouldn't learn anything :wink:

2) Ignition output select: Once again 2 options -
(a) Output resistor connected to +5V
(b) Output resistor connected to +12v
This setting depends on the ignitor output signals. This helps the intercept replicate the amplitude of the origonal signal.

Ok I'll give you this answer as it's a bit hard to find...I assume you mean the output from ignitors to the ION1-ION4 pins, in which case the answer is +5v [square waveform]
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Postby blitza » Sun Jul 03, 2005 9:35 am

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Postby TWSTD » Sun Jul 03, 2005 12:04 pm

Fair call fivebob - i should indeed learn how to read those diagrams to their full potential - but thanks for the 2nd answer :-)

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Postby TWSTD » Sun Jul 03, 2005 12:28 pm

OK - after looking over the diagram that i really dont know how to read (to be fair i am battling with 2 foreign languages here - russian and electroican), i have summised (based on your previous reposnse) that ION1-4 is the ignition output, therefor IGT1-4 must be ignition input.

IGT1-4 all have a squigly line an 5V next to them - so would I be correct in saying that the answer to my origonal question 1 is "(b) - pulled up to +ve rail" ?
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Postby fivebob » Sun Jul 03, 2005 1:37 pm

TWSTD wrote:OK - after looking over the diagram that i really dont know how to read (to be fair i am battling with 2 foreign languages here - russian and electroican),

You can ignore the Russian (or look at the english copy of the diagram) it's not relevant to the question at hand ;)
IGT1-4 all have a squigly line an 5V next to them - so would I be correct in saying that the answer to my origonal question 1 is "(b) - pulled up to +ve rail" ?

You are correct 8)

BTW Squiggly line = symbol for transistor
i have summised (based on your previous reposnse) that ION1-4 is the ignition output, therefor IGT1-4 must be ignition input.

The input and output you refer to are for your interceptor box. So as not to cause everyone else confusion they are the opposite to what you say if referring to the ECU :?

IGT1-4 = Ignition Output/Ignitor(Interceptor) Input. ie signal from the ECU to the ignitor.
ION1-4 = Ignition Input/Ignitor(Interceptor) Output. ie signal back from the ignitor to the ECU.
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Postby TWSTD » Sun Jul 03, 2005 4:52 pm

Once again, many thanks :-)

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Postby TWSTD » Sat Jul 09, 2005 6:33 pm

OK - ive spent this afternoon choppin and tappin wires... all i have left to hook up is the Ignition harness.

Now ive been looking over this today and I have your wonderful xml document in front of me (many thanks again) but I find the following slightly confusing:

fivebob wrote:IGT1-4 = Ignition Output/Ignitor(Interceptor) Input. ie signal from the ECU to the ignitor.
ION1-4 = Ignition Input/Ignitor(Interceptor) Output. ie signal back from the ignitor to the ECU.


Now i *believe* the ignition signal wires that i need to cut are the IGT1-4 (pins 10-13 on connctor A) - but what are the ION1-4 wires (Ignitor signal returns) as I can only intercept one of these two sets. Why is there an ignitor return? I clearly dont understand how the ignition system works... but the bottom line is, do i intercept the IGT1-4 wires with my interceptor ECU or do i intercept the ION1-4 wires? Im almost certain its the IGT wires that i need to intercept - just wanting to make sure ;-)

Thanks in advance.

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Postby fivebob » Sat Jul 09, 2005 9:22 pm

Yes, you intercept the IGT1-4 signals, the ION1-4 pins are for misfire/fault detection, which I had assumed from you previous question that the Interceptor was also controlling.

If you don't have the facility to alter the timing of the return signal from the Ignitor, then the ECU may well decide it has a fault if you advance, or retard, the timing to such an extent that the return signal is outside the window that the ECU is looking for it.

Though judging by the follow waveform diagram which shows the relationship between IGT (Top) and ION (Bottom) pins, this is unlikely to occur unless you radically alter the timing (unlikely), or, because your timing is based on the previous cylinders ignition event, the engine rpms rise or fall very rapidly (even less likely).
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Postby TWSTD » Sat Jul 09, 2005 11:59 pm

ahhh - that makes sense, and yes the interceptor only intercepts the outgoing ignitor signals. I shouldnt need to alter the timing overly much...

thanks again.
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Postby TWSTD » Mon Jul 11, 2005 6:25 pm

Car still is not running.. damn it -so once again I seek your advice :-)

Just to confirm, ignition sequence is 1, 3, 4, 2 right?

Also I need and "I/J ground" (common injector ground) although I cant see this on the ECU pin-out... I have it currently hooked up to one of the various ground wires but apparently it needs to be directly on the common injector ground, not grounded through the chassis first...

Lastly, im not 100% sure that this unit is compatible with the caldina - but it is with the SXE10 - so it should be. Is the SXE10 MAP or air flow meter - anyone know? Might help me to get these damn pots set correctly...

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Postby fivebob » Mon Jul 11, 2005 6:44 pm

SXE10 Altezza is AFM.

Firing order is 1-3-4-2

There is no common injector ground, they use a common power wire and earth the injectors individually through the ECU pins #10-#40, this is common to most ECU's, not just Toyotas so I can't understand why you'd need it :?
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Postby 190evo » Mon Jul 11, 2005 6:59 pm

hey i have a caldina wagon gt-t,and was just wondering wat type of boost do u run on your td06 turbo,and do u have the standerd computer,
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Postby TWSTD » Mon Jul 11, 2005 6:59 pm

OK - thanks. Im unsure why i need it too - just going on the advice ive recieved from someone in the US who has installed these on 1ZZ-FE's before with good success.

If only there was a decent greddy agent here NZ... i called trust in Japan this afternoon asking them for further info as to the jumper settings and rotary switch settings etc for the caldina (as of course its not even listed under "Car select": http://www.trust-power.com/e-man/ - the guy I spoke to was helpful, but was trying to get me to go through an NZ distributor (Redline, Japrace or i cant recall the other one). Ive sent him a fax to forward to the techs there to see if they cant answer my questions.

 
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Postby TWSTD » Mon Jul 11, 2005 7:07 pm

190evo wrote:hey i have a caldina wagon gt-t,and was just wondering wat type of boost do u run on your td06 turbo,and do u have the standerd computer,


Currently running about 14 psi, and yes standard ECU (although im trying to get a Greddy E-manage unit working on it now to add some tunability to it).
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Postby fivebob » Mon Jul 11, 2005 7:11 pm

TWSTD wrote:OK - thanks. Im unsure why i need it too - just going on the advice ive recieved from someone in the US who has installed these on 1ZZ-FE's before with good success.


Doh, now I understand why it's needed, but the name "common" injector ground is a bit misleading. It's the ground for the EManage injector driver circuit. Connect it to the same ground point that the ECU uses.

Are you getting spark?
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Postby TWSTD » Mon Jul 11, 2005 7:35 pm

The reasoning behind the "common injector ground" is this:

My question: "Pin 18 on the 18 pin harness is "INJ ground" - is this just any earth? or a special earth point? I currently just have it earthed.

Answer: Thats a problem. It is NOT plain chassis ground _ Though it ends up there eventally. Pin 18 MUST go to the ECU wire that is common to all 4 injectors. The injectors fire when and for the length of time that their ground is pulsed. In order for the INJ map to add fuel it must hold the ground a millisecond or 6 longer. If its not on the same wire as the ECU to INJ then the ground differential caused by the chassis cause the signal to be lost. On mine, the ECU wire was a different color (WHITE/blackstripe) than the common wire visible on the injectors (Brown/Red Stripe) . I had to get an factory electrical manual to find the pin. Until then it ran LEAN UNDER BOOST.

fivebob wrote:..It's the ground for the EManage injector driver circuit. Connect it to the same ground point that the ECU uses.

Are you getting spark?


The factory ECU seems to have many grounds - assuming any will do, thats currently how I have it. Ive not pulled the leads to check spark yet - its so damn awful outside ive resigned myself to e-reserch for the present.
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Postby fivebob » Mon Jul 11, 2005 9:29 pm

TWSTD wrote:The reasoning behind the "common injector ground" is this:

My question: "Pin 18 on the 18 pin harness is "INJ ground" - is this just any earth? or a special earth point? I currently just have it earthed.

Answer: Thats a problem. It is NOT plain chassis ground _ Though it ends up there eventally. Pin 18 MUST go to the ECU wire that is common to all 4 injectors. The injectors fire when and for the length of time that their ground is pulsed. In order for the INJ map to add fuel it must hold the ground a millisecond or 6 longer. If its not on the same wire as the ECU to INJ then the ground differential caused by the chassis cause the signal to be lost. On mine, the ECU wire was a different color (WHITE/blackstripe) than the common wire visible on the injectors (Brown/Red Stripe) . I had to get an factory electrical manual to find the pin. Until then it ran LEAN UNDER BOOST.

Pure, unadulerated, Bullsh!t :roll:

There is no common injector ground wire, there is only a common injector power wire. That said however he does make one correct point, in that the earth needs to be the same as the ECU Earth connection, or the potential difference may cause some problems, not enough to make it not run though.

The factory ECU seems to have many grounds - assuming any will do, thats currently how I have it.


There are three ECU ground pins (E1,EO1, & EO2), but only two connections, one on the engine block and one on the intake manifold. The ECU pins are connected to both, but I can't see a reason why you'd have to do that, so I'd just attach it to the one on the intake manifold.
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Postby TWSTD » Mon Jul 11, 2005 11:18 pm

No - im more inclined to believe that it wont run because either the rotary switch settings are wrong or the jumper settings are wrong or both.

There is stuff all info i can find on the rotary switches. The 1st of three seems to be either ignition type or no of cyl depending on what you believe - i have mine set to "4." The latter two are for the air flow measurement type - "40" "41" and "42" represent "toyota pressure sensor 1, 2 and 3" but theres no explanation of what these actually refer to. I had assumed 1, 2 and 3 bar map sensors - but i dont think thats correct. I currently have mine set as 4-4-1 (as the last 2 digits on the ST205 wiring guide are "41" but i have NO IDEA if this is correct. The full ST205 rotary switch setting is 2-4-1. Here are some other vehicle setups to compare (in case you can decipher it!):

SW20 1989-1993 2-4-8 (2 bar map gen 2 engine?)
SW20 oct 1993-1999 2-4-1 (3 bar map gen 3 engine)
ST205 2-4-1 (3 bar map gen 3 engine)
JZA80 7-4-0 (7 could mean 6 cyl?)
AE86 4age 2-4-2
AW11 4age 2-4-2
Aw11 4agze 2-4-A

Mitsi eclipse 4g63 3-8-3
Mitsi 3000GT 6-8-1

R34 RB26dett 7-0-5
Ka24DE 2-4-6
VG30DE 7-0-1

Civic 2-8-A
Prelude 2-8-A
Integra 2-8-A

Ive not got any listings for 3sge or any 4 coil 4 cyl 3 bar map sensor run cars to compare...
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Postby vvega » Mon Jul 11, 2005 11:44 pm

you have a 2 bar map sensor


well the gt-t one i had was :D

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