GT-T I/C

[Santa'sBoostinSleigh]

OK, im starting to look at going the front mount route -

what i would like is some recommendations on a few things, im no super expert and i value everyones opinions

what size core would suit my GT-T?

any specific brands that are better/ones to stay away from?

what size piping to use? i was thinking maybe 2.5" stainless?

how hard is it to turn the turbo round - point it down? - to reduce bends etc

problems/hic-ups that may come along?

rough costs? for each bit etc

and any other info that anyone wants to share

ta
Andrew

[Rollux]

I've had good results from my Hybrid I/C GT Spec I got from Oz, 450x300x80, on my SR20DET Avenir. Replaced my factory front mount with it. It is a Bar and fin, a kinda cross between bar and plate and tube and fin, to try to get better cooling without impairing the flow. (I actually got a 3psi boost increase at the manifold just by replacing the IC!!) I'm only looking for about 280-300hp total(220hp stock), so it's not going to be overkill.
Oh, it cost me $565 shipped. Not sure if anyone here in NZ does them.
As for turning the turbo round, generally can be done (not too sure on a GTT tho), but you need to modify your wastegate actuator mounting bracket.

[blitza]

good thought on clocking the compressor housing, sometimes there is a roll pin in the centre section for indexing that will have to come out.

good thought on the stainless too, everyone will be doing this soon.

[Santa'sBoostinSleigh]

good thought on clocking the compressor housing, sometimes there is a roll pin in the centre section for indexing that will have to come out.

good thought on the stainless too, everyone will be doing this soon.

have you done yours Blitza or are you still running top mount?
would the stainless be a benefit over ali or mild steel?
i can get dairy tube fairly easily, but this is quite thick walled hence heavier.. dunno if that really makes a difference or not, but its just one more thing to take into consideration i guess

[Malcolm]

I had the compressor housing rotated on my ct26 in my gt4. It's fairly easy to do, you just either remove the locating pin in the compressor housing, or you file a new keyway for it on the edge of the compressor backing plate on the center section (this is what I did).
Making the new bracket for the actuator is a tiny bit tricky as you have to make sure it doesn't interfere with the coolant lines, and that it puts enough tension on the wastegate that it doesn't leak!
On the gt4 there was only a small spot for the compressor outlet to point to, between the fan and the engine mount, so it would definitely be wise to decide on the position with the turbo still on the car, rather than just approximating.

2.5" might be a bit laggy, I don't really want to get into the argument of how much difference the volume of the piping makes, but I know that on a gt4 with a massive front mount (600x300x75) and 2.5" piping that I had a ride in, the guy reckoned there was hardly any lag but to me it felt like boost built very slowly, with no real kick as it came in, and probably didn't seem to reach full boost until well over 4K (on stock turbo). In comparision mine, with 2" piping and a much smaller vr4 intercooler hit full boost around 3,500 with a big kick, and that was on an upgraded ct26.

As far as material goes, stainless would be the best, as it wont rust, provided you use a low carbon content steel (ie 304L), as normal austenitic stainless steel will suffer from "weld decay" around welded joints and rust. Mild steel is the cheapest but you'd probably want to get it ceramic coated or similar to prevent rust (all mine + intake piping cost $130 to be ceramic + powder coated). Aluminium will never rust but it will more readily conduct hot air from the engine bay into the intake air and could fail due to fatigue if it is loaded frequently due to lack of joiners, hitting chassis etc under engine movement etc, will also probably cost the most to make

[Santa'sBoostinSleigh]

cheers All_Fours,
what size core is yours?

another thing i just thought of is where would be the optimal places to use flexi joiner type things or is welding the whole lot solid ok?

[Malcolm]

don't quite remember the size of the vr4 ic, think it was around 400x270x60
you definitely want a couple of flexible hoses otherwise you'll get lots of banging and or breaking of pipes. Not sure on optimal positioning though

[Mr Revhead]

just dont buy one of those repco ones, "racepro" i think they are. they are HORRIBLE have a close look at one

[Malcolm]

what's horrible about them? I had a close look and my main concern was the fact that when I looked through one of the inlets I could see a small bit of welding on one of the tubes (presumably to fix a leak?).

[Mr Revhead]

the one on display here looks ok on the outside, but look into a pipe, and its disgusting, so so restrictive, bad welding, and just a poor design.
its worse than any stock one iv seen

[Rollux]

"racepro" i think they are.

Close, I beleive they are called "Ricepro" (or Gaypro, depending on where you're from)

[blitza]

haven't done mine yet, ss has better heat properties than ali, plus if you use polished pipes, they will be shinier and more resilient to scratching.

[Santa'sBoostinSleigh]

what about you other GT-T boys, what have you done/recommend?

[Dell'Orto]

the one on display here looks ok on the outside, but look into a pipe, and its disgusting, so so restrictive, bad welding, and just a poor design.
its worse than any stock one iv seen

Says the man who sells dodgy thai knock off parts

Nah, the first generation of those Racepro coolers looked crap, but the 2nd lot we've had look identical to the Hybrid coolers you see around.
If you knew who made them, you wouldnt be so quick to say they're shit.

[Santa'sBoostinSleigh]

so are the hybrid ones good then??
what would the price diff be between hybrid and racepro?
who makes them then Mmm, Boost?

still looking for info on the size of the core and piping i should go for!

[Santa'sBoostinSleigh]

would it be worth just front mounting the standard I/C?

[Santa'sBoostinSleigh]

Also i have an oil cooler with a fan off a 2.5L V6 TT VR4 Legnum motor, do ya rekon this might be worth installing in place of the standard caldina one?

[Rollux]

Nah, the first generation of those Racepro coolers looked crap, but the 2nd lot we've had look identical to the Hybrid coolers you see around.
If you knew who made them, you wouldnt be so quick to say they're sh*t.

The racepro ones i saw looked crap, my Hybrid one looks 2000% better, and the welding and tanks are far better. Who does make the Ricepro ones? I can't say I've seen any Ricepro ones recently, but a 5 sec look was enough to turn me off them.

[blitza]

as far as mounting the oil cooler on top, not a bad idea. I am looking at making a part to go in the bonnet scoop hole to vent air out, will post when complete.

[Mr Revhead]

well the ones they have here must be the old lot then, cause they are total rubbish!