symptoms of a broken/loose engine mount?

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symptoms of a broken/loose engine mount?

Postby deaf_rattle » Sun Aug 07, 2005 11:26 am

what would be some signs of the engine mount being faulty in an ae92 fxgt?

I have noticed that when i reverse up my drive there is alot of shuddering/rattling.

it doesnt feel/sound too good.

might be time for engine conversion/swap
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Postby solberg Fan » Sun Aug 07, 2005 12:12 pm

Give the engine a shove!
Just have a close look at them.
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Postby Punter » Mon Aug 08, 2005 10:21 am

Shuddering in reverse is usually a sign of a worn clutch (IMHO)
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Postby FLAWLES » Mon Aug 08, 2005 10:30 am

when the mounts are pooked they bang and clank

ie when u get on the gas they bang
when u get off the gas they clank
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Postby Malcolm » Mon Aug 08, 2005 10:35 am

a quick look will tell you if the mounts are stuffed, just check the front and rear torque mounts, if the rubber appears badly cracked, torn or even completely seperated, then they're definitely stuffed. You'll still need the mounts for an engine conversion (presuming you want a bolt in 20v swap or something), so if they're stuffed better off fixing them now.
Urethane filling them is a good option, you can buy 2 part urethane resins for around $80 for enough to do the mounts, then just put your mounts sideways in a bowl of sand and pour the resin in
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Postby MrOizo » Mon Aug 08, 2005 10:42 am

urethane instructions found here:

http://www.mr2supercharger.com/engmounts.html


All of the original rubber was pulled from the old mounts. The steel bearing tubes were cleaned up. The center of the mounts were cleaned up. I bought 2 bags of sand and a tub with lid. The sand can be used for other stuff later. It is regular construction sand... nothing special.

The Mounts were then taped up with duct tape. I then took the center bearing and placed it in the exact center. Took a hammer and made some indention's in the tape. And then cut a hole in the tape smaller than the bearing. I pushed the bearing through the hole, and centered it in the mount. I then placed it in the sand. The sand will support the whole assembly to keep bubbles from forming within the urethane. This is very important to keep the mount as strong as possible.


Image

Image

I then read the instructions and warnings about how this stuff can kill you if you breath the contents... but only if you live in California. I live in Virginia, so I must be safe. But I am from California, so I moved the whole assembly outside. I opened the can and poured in the whole container of hardener. Stirred it up very well, and then just poured it in. I had a bunch left over, so I filled up a Slurpy cup with the rest. This will be used to make isolators, spacers or anywhere it might look cool.



I checked the mounts after 5 hours. They are sitting in my basement shop. The temp is 65° F. They are solid enough to pick up. I am going to leave them in the sand for 24 hours. The destructions stated 72 hours for total hardness


Image
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Postby Ae92typeX » Mon Aug 08, 2005 12:10 pm

Yea, as All_Fours says, usually pretty easy to tell visually. Ive found the front one on fwd 4ages seems to go the most.
MrOizo wrote:...
I then read the instructions and warnings about how this stuff can kill you if you breath the contents... but only if you live in California. I live in Virginia, so I must be safe. But I am from California, so I moved the whole assembly outside...


Haha, that guy sounds like me with warnings...

Where abouts can you get urethane in auckland?, also it comes in different strength grades does it not?, what have people used?
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Postby Malcolm » Mon Aug 08, 2005 1:31 pm

Brassfit engineering sells it, go and talk to Howard, he's an AW11 owner from clubaw and I think he can do it for around $80 (not sure how much you get for that). It comes in different hardness (usually measured on the Shore scale), ie 60 shore, 80 shore, IIRC. You probably want the softest one, as even that will be a lot harder than the stock mounts
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